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#291
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![]() What equipment would you guys use to put up the building if you were doing it yourself? Even if I did build a house right after the shop it would just be the exterior shell of the house and I'd work on the inside over time.
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Tim Self appointed director of junk, and old vehicles. |
#292
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#293
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I think credit card debt is very undesirable.
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Tim Self appointed director of junk, and old vehicles. |
#294
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Brian You don't know what you don't know. ![]() "It's what you learn after you know it all that counts." John Wooden ![]() |
#295
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We pay them off every month,no interest.
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#296
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Dunno, for a firewall between a shop and possible living quarters I'd want one thing, concrete. four block walls, a slab roof, industrial fire door into the shop and I'd be slow to have windows into the shop. do they have such a thing as fire rated windows? If I was actually using it as living quarters personally I'd keep the shop to living space door locked too, a bit of seperation between church and state is no harm. Great that you can do it, but I dont think I'd be able for the discipline of not wandering in filthy |
#297
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Firewall construction will depend on local code, and also more than likely on how the inspector views the risk level of the shop.
Firewalls have a time rating on them, and adding layers of drywall increases the time rating. So if code or the inspector want you to have a half hour fire rating, you are going to have to build one way and if they decide it should be an hour then your are going to have to do a lot more. You won't be able to do a mezzanine over the living area unless you fire proof the ceiling as well. A firewall has to go floor to ceiling with no penetrations (doors have to be fire rated, heating duct has to have automatic fire dampers which have to be inspected, you are better off to have a solid wall), cracks have to be caulked with fireproof expanding caulking, and I believe you will need to use steel studs as having flammable material inside the wall will reduce the rating to whatever is on the outside of it instead of getting you credit for the sheetrock on both sides. I think the problems with fumes could be taken care pretty easily but it will cost more money. I would get a mini split for heating and cooling the living area and mount it on an exterior wall so that it isn't pulling air from the shop area, and would somewhat give the living area positive pressure. I wouldn't even have a door from the shop to the living area, each should have its own exterior door. If you really think you can't walk outside and back in then you need to put a mudroom with double doors in between, and it needs to have an exhaust fan blowing air back into the shop. I think living in the shop temporarily would be a faster solution to moving out to your property but I think doing it properly will be expensive and will push back your timeline for building a house.
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Handcrafted Leather |
#298
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wow! i had no idea you could have so many problems with the shop attahed to the house!
If i had to do it again,i would. We love being able to walk out from the mudroom into the shop. I do have the other building thats not attached,thats where we do the nasty work,we can get two 45 foot motorhomes in and we have a 6 foot deep pit 40 feet long and 4 feet wide,which makes underside work so easy. |
#299
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I do most of my work in an attached garage, and for the most part it's no big deal, but occasionally when I'm using the chop saw alot or painting, you get some odor in the house. I also have to watch I don't walk past the belt grinder and then go inside as I leave a trail of iron gray footprints.... I didn't post that as a "don't do this" I posted that as someone who has built buildings that had fire rated rooms and had to deal with inspectors. Some guys will just glance at it and say you're good, others will demand pictures and documentation that there are indeed 3 layers of sheetrock. Fire dampers in heating duct are a pain in the ass to test, and if your knuckles get in the way it doesn't shut right and the guy fails you. Most folks won't have any of those problems but I think people should know about them ahead of time so it doesn't bite them in the ass later. I had a building fail because they got dryfall paint on the glass plugs in the sprinkler system. The inspector read me the riot act and acted like I was personally trying to kill everyone inside. The sprinkler company wouldn't come back, and the painters worked for my company so it was my baby, and I spent 4 days on a scissor lift scrubbing sprinkler heads off in between dealing with my subs. I finally got them done and paid the fee for a 2nd inspection and the dickhead guy was on vacation....his replacement was a afraid of heights and when he saw the sprinkler heads were 25 feet high he slapped me on the shoulder and said I trust you, lets just get that signed off buddy! You never know who you're dealing with and have to have your shit together or suffer the consequences.
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Handcrafted Leather |
#300
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Even though I am zoned A1 I don't know how anal the building inspector will be.
The more I think about it the more I like having the house and shop separate.
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Tim Self appointed director of junk, and old vehicles. |
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