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#31
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![]() As most of you know the Bishman 880-61 ranges a wide gamut of years from 50-70's and onward and comes in a few colors. Most primary colors come in red or blue and have 1/4 motor under their chasis. This motor is severely under powered for what it does but will get by with the help from lots of lube and repairing the sweep arm. From what I gathered there is no user available parts to purchase anywhere in the country and creating or repairing your own seems to be the only option. In my case I gave up on the stock arm relatively quickly and went with the more traditional duck bill design from a coats machine. These could be had from Amazon for fairly cheap and modified to fit. This worked fairly well but would bind up and stall the motor almost immediately while spinning in clockwise rotation. So a simple swap of some of the antique wiring (red & black) and the AC motor now spins counter clockwise. Tire lube is still a must, but for a little effort this machine may actually prove to last another 20-40 years in my garage. It's still a work in progress but what have you all been able to do to your machines to get them working again? I am looking for ideas on what to add next. |
#32
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What do you need to know?
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Drawing by Smartdraw |
#33
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Chris The question isn't who is going to let me; it's who is going to stop me. Last edited by milomilo; 11-23-2020 at 10:19 PM. |
#34
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Just thinking about any upgrades to motor or possiboy a pulley swap to gain more torque from the existing motor. It works fairly well for being so old just by spinning the bar backwards, but it often stalls out mid spin and needs many bumps of the foot pedal.
Does everyone have there sweep bar spinning the factory direction CW and still keeping with the orignal bar? What is the bend for in the bar that seems to be in every picture I have ever seen ? What about the bead breaker machanics? I've found that by using it as the YouTube videos I have watched I can never get the bottom bead broken. But placing the top breaker onto the rim, the bottom breaker seems to work much better. Obviously you have to watch for rim damage but it works 100% better. Getting the lock machism to wroks seems to also he hit or mis so I still need to look into why it doesn't alway grab. I can see the stop mechanism is a little rounded over but still there. Does anyone have a picture of how the lever and break set is supposed to look? Last edited by Boozzer86; 11-23-2020 at 10:09 PM. |
#35
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Chris The question isn't who is going to let me; it's who is going to stop me. |
#36
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Mine is also CW I always break the bottom bead first
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Drawing by Smartdraw Last edited by digr; 11-24-2020 at 04:58 PM. |
#37
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I do the bottom first also.
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Chris The question isn't who is going to let me; it's who is going to stop me. |
#38
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Chris is the last picture I posted right, I can't remember
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Drawing by Smartdraw |
#39
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I put the lip on the inside of the rim.
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Chris The question isn't who is going to let me; it's who is going to stop me. |
#40
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not for breaking the top bead, I removed the pic.
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Drawing by Smartdraw Last edited by digr; 11-24-2020 at 05:01 PM. |
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