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  #41  
Old 12-16-2013, 05:39 AM
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Originally Posted by johnyradio View Post
ok, so stone can run faster because they don't overheat the way metal cutters do? thx for that!
I have not paid attention on how hot a stone gets, stones used in hand grinders just cut with better control at a higher speed than conventional cutters with teeth, the little particles break off the stone and you have a new sharp edge not like a cutter that gets dull.

A stone will over heat the material if you are not careful, aluminum gets soft from heat and will pack into the stone.

A stone for cleaning up or sizing is ok. not good the choice for cutting out a pocket.
There are thin slitting types of stones but I would not allow any student too use them.

Quote:
hoping for a one-tool solution....
There is but not in your price range.


Quote:
i'm not sure, here are the suggestions that were made:

"Dremel's plunge router attachment, then make a jig/template of the D-sub cutout, and just trace around the template. A proper router bit should cut through the aluminum like butter."

"for what your doing you cannot beat a dremel tool, there is the depth cutter guide attachment that could easily be adapted to follow a pattern. Id get a die grinder and set it up like a vertical spindle sander"
I was referring about trying to cut a cutout with just a rotary tool held by one hand. attachments with a base will help stabilize the tool and can work with the thinner aluminum but may not with your new material, have to see what you find out.


Quote:
nope

wow, many many thanks, i really appreciate that!!! i know we'll need to buy something at harbor freight, if not this item something else. Would be great if you could donate that!
I'll try to get a good scan of the fine print on the coupon and post it, the way it reads I assume you can just give them the number over the phone. if not PM your address and I will send it to you.
The 25% coupons have been in the penny saver, magazine's, and some free paper they throw on the sidewalk.
When I did frequent Libraries the coupons were in every type of mechanics magazines, you may want to check them out.

BTW: its only good for one item and not the total purchase.

Quote:
and a scroll and jig would both be considered reciprocating, right?
Yep.

Quote:
ok, i have read 2 teeth elsewhere.

Can you have too many teeth?
Won't a lot more teeth just give a cleaner, faster cut?
"too many" Maybe not in your case of thin metal.
In thin material it can be cleaner.

Not really faster.
Too many teeth can require more pressure = more heat.
May break the blade from extra pressure.
Less room for chips too escape, chips will pack-up and stop the blade from cutting so you end up pushing harder without thinking and break the blade.
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  #42  
Old 12-16-2013, 12:37 PM
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Another idea. How about a mortising attachment for a drill press. If you are cutting .010 to .015 steel, I would think it would go through that without a lot of problem. I would try a 3/8" unit.
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  #43  
Old 12-19-2013, 09:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrapper Greg View Post
Another idea. How about a mortising attachment for a drill press. If you are cutting .010 to .015 steel, I would think it would go through that without a lot of problem. I would try a 3/8" unit.
new info: Selkirk has confirmed the piece is 100% 0.017" aluminum.

Last edited by johnyradio; 12-19-2013 at 10:48 PM.
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  #44  
Old 12-19-2013, 09:56 PM
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Getting down to the wire. I want to get some kids building these things before xmas, but not looking good.

(Note, Selkirk confirmed the piece is 100% 0.017" Aluminum sheet


the coping saw failed. I could not really control the thing. It just got stuck. The blade was too coarse (15 or 20 tpi). Where i did get a good stroke, just got rough edges. No way i could get those sharp turns. You can see in the pic the trace of the square hole i'm trying to cut.

Awaiting some fine 360-deg spiral blades in the mail, but not sure they'll fit the Stanley coping saw.
http://durafix.com/blades/copingsaw/
and
http://www.bestwayproductscompany.com/products.html

Also waiting for some Stanley 32 tpi blades designed for this saw.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111231547834...84.m1439.l2649


If the above blades don't work, then on to sub-$100 power tools. These are they:

http://turtlefeathers.net/text/power...son-guide.html
and
http://www.harborfreight.com/16-inch...saw-93012.html
and
http://www.ixi-devices.com/index.php...aw/flypage.tpl
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Last edited by johnyradio; 12-19-2013 at 10:55 PM.
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  #45  
Old 12-19-2013, 10:47 PM
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Johny, have you considered a Dremel Multi Tool?
I don't have any experience cutting thin metal with one but I do have the Harbor Freight version that sometimes comes in handy.
They just vibrate through the material so you need a way to dampen loose objects, i.e., hold it firmly, but it might work.

Here's a .

Website.
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  #46  
Old 12-20-2013, 02:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GWIZ View Post
I'll try to get a good scan of the fine print on the coupon and post it, the way it reads I assume you can just give them the number over the phone. if not PM your address and I will send it to you.
The 25% coupons have been in the penny saver, magazine's, and some free paper they throw on the sidewalk.
When I did frequent Libraries the coupons were in every type of mechanics magazines, you may want to check them out.

BTW: its only good for one item and not the total purchase.
Here is the scan.

http://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/...ad.php?t=40541
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  #47  
Old 12-20-2013, 03:04 AM
johnyradio johnyradio is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cutter View Post
Johny, have you considered a Dremel Multi Tool?
Thanks, Curmudg!

Keep in mind, i must cut a 1/3" square. So, most Dremel attachments are too big. I believe the attachments that MIGHT work are:

Someone who is familiar with Dremel, please link me to other attachments that might work. 1/3" square hole, no burrs, sheet aluminum, 3"+ from the edge...

Cost: The cheapest Dremel brand tool i'm seeing is about $25, so i'm looking at Dremel-compatible tools, starting around $15:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-80-Piece...item27da046b31

Last edited by johnyradio; 12-20-2013 at 03:11 AM.
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  #48  
Old 12-20-2013, 04:16 AM
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You get a cleaner cut with a flat blade nibbler opposed to round blades that cut half moons.
Still advise drilling 4 holes one in each corner.

The penny is a little too soft and cut somewhat gummy.

pix 4) One nibbler I was not able to get the penny under the blade, I assume the one with more space is an older nibbler.
requires a 7/16 hole to get the cutter thru, may be able to remove the spring-loaded hold down clamp and get it in a smaller hole.
As I recall there is some other hand nibblers that do not have the clamp and may allow a smaller thru hole.
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Last edited by GWIZ; 12-20-2013 at 04:35 AM.
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  #49  
Old 12-20-2013, 04:23 AM
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Adel tool co
chicago, ill
made in the u.s.a.

Thats funny, I typed all capitals and the site changed to lowercase
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  #50  
Old 12-20-2013, 04:57 AM
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Quote:
No way i could get those sharp turns.
Thats why it has been suggested to drill a hole in each corner.
The wood chisel idea is a good one after you drill the 4 holes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Walker View Post
Drill a hole in each corner then use a sharp chisel(woodworking) and hammer through on a block of wood.
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Last edited by GWIZ; 12-20-2013 at 05:05 AM.
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