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  #11  
Old 12-15-2018, 05:22 PM
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ah gosh, thanks..

It's neat and kind of from a historical perspective being made out of the original Wrought iron trusses from the Longfellow bridge in Boston, MA is cool..

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Longfellow_Bridge


.. It's neat with the wrought iron and steel face and peen, but I still think items like Thumb latches, locks, scissors, candle snuffers, and such, these kinds of things are a lot nicer forge items.. I'll be doing more tradional work coming up..

The 2.75lbs hammer swings really nice..
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  #12  
Old 12-17-2018, 05:21 PM
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What's the rebound like on a wrought iron bodied hammer? I know your faces are the normal hardness, but does the wrought body dampen it at all?

I never realized how dead my old hardware store hammers felt until I got a Mustad rounding hammer. It really wants to come back up off the anvil/work. In the past I would have said that was no big deal but when you have a lot of work to do it really is nice to have it bounce into your backswing. That was my big complaint with the 4lb Kobalt Engineers hammer I was using on the damascus billet. In addition to the rubber not allowing for any slip in your grip, it pretty much just lands dead.
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  #13  
Old 12-18-2018, 09:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Shade View Post
What's the rebound like on a wrought iron bodied hammer? I know your faces are the normal hardness, but does the wrought body dampen it at all?

I never realized how dead my old hardware store hammers felt until I got a Mustad rounding hammer. It really wants to come back up off the anvil/work. In the past I would have said that was no big deal but when you have a lot of work to do it really is nice to have it bounce into your backswing. That was my big complaint with the 4lb Kobalt Engineers hammer I was using on the damascus billet. In addition to the rubber not allowing for any slip in your grip, it pretty much just lands dead.
The rebound is ridiculous.. On par with the finest steel faced anvils.. Wrought iron is a weird material.. I can be compacted is and is what is seen as sway.. An anvil with sway will have compacted wrought iron and will show a slightly higher hardness..


Personally, I'm not a fan of looking at rebound as a measured act of kinetics..

Reason is the only time rebound of anvil or hammer comes into play is when the metal being forged has reached a state of solidness and becomes resistive to hammer blows..

I'm forging heavy at higher heats so there is no extra return in rebound as all the energy is going into moving metal also known as the mush factor. This happens all the way down to about 400-500D..

The only time I see it's action of rebound is when planishing and then the metal is nearly hand hold cold..

There is a lot of miss understanding but hammer technique has so much to do with how one swings a hammer..

If doing a bunch of cold shoeing, the hammer/anvil rebound factor will come in.. As does a time or to off the anvil face to keep thyme..

The Fiskars hammer I did the video one was a pure pleasure to swing.. The hammer I made is to light for my liking as a general forging hammer as I like somethung in the 4-5lbs range..

But with that said it swings really nice though it does have some feedback when hit off center because of the rebound factor..
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If I defend myself I am attacked.

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My attack thoughts are attacking my invulnerability.

I'd like to think of something smart, but I don't want to hurt myself.

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DoALL 36"
Another Johnson model J Project
Lathe? Maybe..... 1958 SBL 13"
Yeti Esseti Aka running welder on 3phase.
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  #14  
Old 12-26-2018, 07:36 PM
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I got it done just in time for Christmas and gave it to my dad. He's a big woodworker.

The handle is bocote wood. I had planned on using ebony but the piece I had stashed ended up having a split in it that I couldn't work around.

I made a small slip sheath to cover the end of the blade when he's not using it.

Did a little more polishing and a 2nd etch after sanding the handle but it didn't change the appearance much.

I'm pretty happy with how it came out, have to do some more stuff like this
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  #15  
Old 12-26-2018, 07:44 PM
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It came out really nice. I'm sure Dad likes it It has such a neat look to it.
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  #16  
Old 12-26-2018, 08:44 PM
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I've never seen anything quite like that.
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  #17  
Old 12-27-2018, 07:22 AM
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Nice work Matt, is there enough room for striking the end? Looks like there is just enough but with a soft mallet the wood might take a little hit..


Ferric chloride etch??? sorry if I missed it..
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Jennifer

If I defend myself I am attacked.

My meaningless thoughts are showing me a meaningless world.

My attack thoughts are attacking my invulnerability.

I'd like to think of something smart, but I don't want to hurt myself.

My google+ page

DoALL 36"
Another Johnson model J Project
Lathe? Maybe..... 1958 SBL 13"
Yeti Esseti Aka running welder on 3phase.
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  #18  
Old 12-27-2018, 08:16 AM
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I didn't put a striking end on this one, it is shaped like a small timber slick and has a very thin end. It will cut across end grain with just a push. I think my welds are sound enough, but he has lots of other chisels he can use a hammer on if he needs too.
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  #19  
Old 12-28-2018, 08:18 PM
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Very nice indeed..
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Jennifer

If I defend myself I am attacked.

My meaningless thoughts are showing me a meaningless world.

My attack thoughts are attacking my invulnerability.

I'd like to think of something smart, but I don't want to hurt myself.

My google+ page

DoALL 36"
Another Johnson model J Project
Lathe? Maybe..... 1958 SBL 13"
Yeti Esseti Aka running welder on 3phase.
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