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  #71  
Old 10-29-2009, 08:25 AM
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Well, I'm excited now. What you put wrote makes all the difference. I would have been spinning on my heels going by the manual.

I've actually known a few of the engineering types that write these kinds of manuals and they love it. They joke amoungst themselves how us non lingo speaking creatures call Tech support and sound like little babies. Anyhow their nice guys there just real brainy and enjoy letting everyone know it.



I just ordered the gear box oil so I can give it an oil change. Mobil Vactra No.1 is recommended gear box oil. Doesn't really make sense to me but I didn't build the thing. I would have figured a new type synthetic would have been recommended and even contacted Mobil to see if they had any upgrade recommendations.

They said Nothing unless I wanted to get rid of the additive package in the Vactra 1. Then they recommended their SHC 630 I think.
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  #72  
Old 10-29-2009, 12:35 PM
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Jennifer, there are good reasons for using care in selecting the gearbox oil. Automotive products contain additives such as sulphur that will attack bronze gears and worm gears require different consideration that hypoid gears, yada yada.

We have a several old threads that cover the subject.
Take a look at this one, paying particular attention to Shade Tree's explanations & comments.
He is our resident chemist.
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  #73  
Old 10-29-2009, 01:24 PM
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From what I can tell looking at the manual the gear box in this unit is straight cut gearing. vs worm gear.

On the note of oil for which type. I have talked to Royal purples tech department and they stated that in no way, shape or form will their brand Maxgear 75w-90 effect any bronze or brass gearing. This is supposed to be a full synthetic.

Now with that said, I had it in 2 automotive manual transmissions that the synchro ring came out of and totaled the both of them. The balk rings are made from brass. Coincidence?????????????

I'll email Mobil since I do better on paper than in voice. I am a big fan of using the correct synthetics though I just bought 5 gal of the Mobil Vactra no1.

I did ask the Powermatic parts guy and he said Vactra No1. Not sure if anybody else out there has looked into synthetics for these saws?

Link to spec's on the vactra #'erd oils http://www.mobil.com/Canada-English/...a_Numbered.asp
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  #74  
Old 10-29-2009, 01:59 PM
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Welp, I would be inclined to follow Powermatic's recommendation for their product.
Most of the threads we've had on the gearbox oils have concerned the little 4 x 6 bandsaws and the bronze gears they have.
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  #75  
Old 10-29-2009, 02:39 PM
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When it comes to old, quality built, machine tools I figure if they have lasted this long using the specified lubricant, why change. Feed em what they're used to getting.
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  #76  
Old 10-29-2009, 05:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmack898 View Post
When it comes to old, quality built, machine tools I figure if they have lasted this long using the specified lubricant, why change. Feed em what they're used to getting.
I'm always looking to fix the problem:co nfused:
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  #77  
Old 10-29-2009, 05:10 PM
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well , ran into a little problem today. Went to install the VFD. removed the mag starter. And low and behold there is a big gap in the machine where the panel was and all the wiring is inside the machine.

I'm uncertain as to how to proceed. At this point the VFD would be mounted directly above the bandsaw welder, but this seems like not such a good spot.


The fuse panel/ power on/off sits on the side and I'm thinking now I may just put the VFD there though I won't be able to see it as quickly as if on the front. Also, I'll have to wire in a switch to control speed. what kind of rotary switch should I be looking for?


Heard back from Mobil. Here is what they had to say>

Thank you for your inquiry. The synthetic replacement is Mobil SHC 624,
see attached product data sheet. Please note information about seal
compatibility in the product data sheet.

(See attached file: Mobil SHC 600 Series (1-2008).pdf)

Technical Support Engineer (WJF)
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Mobil SHC 600 Series (1-2008).pdf (44.7 KB, 122 views)

Last edited by allessence; 10-29-2009 at 06:17 PM.
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  #78  
Old 10-29-2009, 06:53 PM
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Good afternoon,

I have looked at the manual for your drive. If you want to have speed control by not using the keypad you need a speed potentiometer. If I have selected the book that you have it looks like this.

4.5 Parameter Menu
4.5.1 Basic Setup Parameters

This is where the setup begins. Barry's information will get you started if you put the drive where you want to and find it handy for your application. If you want remote speed control you might as well put remote start and stop as well. The speed control looks to be wide open for selection. If you have an industrial or electronics house local. You could show them the page in the book for details on the Pot. It shows to be able to use a pot from 2 to 10 K if I am reading this correctly. If you can't source local, the drive folks should be able to supply it as well.

You could even get you a digital display combine it to the drive and calibrate it to give you a blade speed in feet per min if you are that ambitious.

You will have to set the correct parameters to make the drive behave like you want.

This all may seem a little intimidating at first but, This to shall pass.
The first 1 I did on my own was on a workbench in the shop a spare motor and a pile of goodies. I was given more things to add to the mix till I got lots of the things we have discussed with you here. On a drive that was much less user friendly.

When you have this done you will be way ahead of a lot of people and be asked to help others.

For hands on type information try contacting a local supply house. Do not be discouraged if you find some that are less than eager to help, They may not know anything about what they sell.

I have an excellent rep. from a local company IBT that has helped with all kinds of information. We tend to cross train each other on certain things.

It is in your hands to have and to play with. You can and will make it work like you want it to.

Scott
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  #79  
Old 10-29-2009, 07:24 PM
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Quote:
At this point the VFD would be mounted directly above the bandsaw welder, but this seems like not such a good spot.
I looked back at post #15 in this thread & see the location of the control box you removed. That looks (to me) to be an ideal location for the drive. Just about at eye level so you can easily see the LED display, and close enough to hit the Start-Stop button or the Up-Down button. You have to remember that water sprayed from a hose nozzle will not hurt this drive, and the action of blade welding (which has no arc, but simply heats the small part of the blade between the two clamps) is way less severe than water under pressure.

I would mount the drive right where the control box had been. Use the fancy watertight connectors to make sure nothing gets into the drive enclosure from the bottom as there is no other place that dirt, dust, smoke or water can enter the drive. It should last a lifetime or two mounted in that position

If you feel better with the drive mounted somewhere else, all of Scott's info is correct. I tend to mount the drive so that a remote on-off switch & a remote pot are not needed, but lots of people use the remote controls. Your call, as one way is just as good as the other.
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  #80  
Old 10-29-2009, 07:41 PM
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Ya'll are gonna keep screwing around 'til you make me start wanting a VFD.
But first I'd have to find another old machine to play with.
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