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  #21  
Old 01-27-2009, 09:56 PM
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grumpy grumpy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bolt View Post
Nope, no mag drill's in my friend circle. Need new friends...

As far as transfer punches go, I never realized a set was so affordable.

$7.99 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=3577

$15.95 http://grizzly.com/products/G5651


$17.96 http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/cat...sfer-punch-set

What's the difference in price and quality here, worth the differences?
Bolt, personally I would stay away from HF transfer punches. I purchased a set and two light taps from the hammer sent the point into the punch shaft. Just my opinion.
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  #22  
Old 01-27-2009, 10:02 PM
bgott bgott is offline
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When I use my transfer punches I paint the part and just use the punch to mark the paint. Then I get a regular center punch to make my dent.
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  #23  
Old 02-04-2009, 12:15 AM
Bolt Bolt is offline
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Well I did this last Thursday night. Pulled the manifold and turbo off, practiced on the two easy to reach broken bolts, and then on to the hard ones. Because of the oil cooler line being in the way, I ended up having to use a right angle air drill with a cut off bit to protrude 1/8" to get them started, then make it a little longer. I used a dremel carbide point in the drill to center start a few of the bolts. They all came out really easy, I used a Sprayway black label penetrant, worked great.


I pulled the tractor into the shop around 5 pm, started pulling stuff off, letting it cool, had supper, changed the hydraulic cooler/intercooler out (oil leak), fixed the crankcase vent to where it wouldn't be so messy, and did the manifold bolts and got through around 1 am. Nothing was hard, it just took time. Thanks for the tips.
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  #24  
Old 02-04-2009, 12:21 AM
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terry lingle terry lingle is offline
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That is good news what will you do for an encore?
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  #25  
Old 02-04-2009, 07:54 AM
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greywynd greywynd is offline
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Did you use anti seize this round?

Glad to hear it went smoothly, drilling out broken bolts can be a PITA.

A couple times when they started off centre I've been able to use a die grinder to grind down the thicker chunk (Haven't got drilled right out to size at that point, so threads in the hole are okay) Go until you just see the 'tips' of the threads are showing, then you can usually peel them out with a chisel or something.
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  #26  
Old 02-04-2009, 10:23 AM
Bolt Bolt is offline
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Yes, I sure did use AS this time. I had to drill one at an angle to be able to reach it, and when I got the nub out I saw that I had drilled just far enough where the first thread of the bolt was gone. I got pretty lucky on that one. Broke one bit ( it was a cheap one, grrr, actually broke in 2 places), but it was down deep enough, where I could cut down an extractor and still get a bite on that bolt.
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  #27  
Old 02-04-2009, 12:37 PM
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midmosandblasting midmosandblasting is offline
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Congrats. I am glad the job went well with no bad times.
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  #28  
Old 02-04-2009, 12:56 PM
Bolt Bolt is offline
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Would it be a bad idea to just replace them all once a year as a preventative measure? Or are they just gonna break on me when I try to back them out?
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  #29  
Old 02-04-2009, 01:15 PM
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terry lingle terry lingle is offline
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If they came out fairly easy and you used NS you should have no problem getting them out after a year.
At least replace the hard to drill out ones and remove and re never sieze the others for your own piece of mind/
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  #30  
Old 09-17-2009, 11:55 PM
Bolt Bolt is offline
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Well I had to do the exhaust manifold bolts again, Two of the old ones broke again. This time it was the front 2. It was pretty simple this time, me and my helper did it in less than 4 hours. Most of the time is in taking parts off and putting them back on. Put the new style bolts on it, see if that will help. I used a torque wrench this time, maybe that will help too. I also noticed the manifold isn't real straight. Maybe an 1/8 of an inch bow outward to both ends. Time will tell how long these last, the last time only 1000 hrs....
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