Rotisserie for Willys jeep restoration

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I'm in the process of restoring a 36 Willys jeep and am at the body work stage. I have lots of floor sections to replace as well as the hat channels. I've used a car rotisserie before, but it wasn't mine. I was hoping to get it back again for this body, but he's borrowed it out to someone else so no go. I decided it was time I built my own, and I thought I'd share my design here.

Using one before was nice because I could get some experience with it and see what I liked, and didn't like. Some things I wanted in my rotisserie was simplicity and small storage space. The one I used before was lacking in both of these areas. It had jacks for height, and screws for balancing, but I only used them once to set up and never used them again. I also knew that I would probably never be using this for anything other than a flatfender tub since I have no desire or time to lets say restore a Camaro or Mustang when I have 2 other flatfenders waiting their turn in the wings. Yes I suppose when I die, whoever gets my rotisserie may not like that it's made for a small body like a flatfender, but what will I care, I'll be dead.

That being said, I built this thing for small bodies. The center point of the pivot is only 37-1/2" from the top of the center connecting tube that connects the two ends of the rotisserie. And that tube, I didn't want to have to waste steel to use for it. I have lots of 2" square tubing in 12 foot lengths so I decided to make it able to use that without any modification.

I can grab a stick from my stock pile, use it for the rotisserie, then when I'm done, I'll just put it back in the steel storage rack and be able to use it on other projects.

[Scratch]

I made the majority of the parts on the ends like the uprights, the horizontal bar and the braces from 1/8" thick 1-1/2" by 2-1/2" rectangle tubing. For none other reason that I had a bunch of it. The vertical piece is 33-1/2" long, and the horizontal is 40" wide, I welded those pieces up in an upside down T shape, then cut some 20" long braces on 45's to support the vertical.

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I have a stick of 2" receiver tube that I use for bumpers and stuff so I cut off 12" for each rotisserie end, and welded that on the bottom. The long 2" square tubing used for the center connecting tube will slide in there on both ends. I did drill a 1/2" hole in the receiver tubes, but I don't plan on using them. I welded a tab for clamping the center connecting tube to the receiver tube. That way, I don't have to ruin the 2" square tubing by drilling a hole in it, and it's still completely adjustable for length, and very secure. It works great.

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I had some 3-1/2" round tube that I used for the outer pivots, and found some trailer axle tubing that fit perfectly inside for the inner pivot parts. Then I drew up and cut out some 1/4" plates with 3/8" holes spaced 6" on center for the body mounting bar. There are 7 sets of holes spaced 1" apart giving me 6" of vertical adjustment on each plate. If I spin the plates 180 degrees, I get 12" of vertical adjustment. I was hoping that would be enough. It was.

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I used a simple 1/2" nut welded over a hole with a bolt to secure the pivot from rotating, but I was lucky enough to get a perfect balance and the tub will spin with one hand and stop in any position, so I'll only have to lock it when I need it to be more secure.

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I used some 3" locking swivel casters I had laying around and it works great. I had it built in an afternoon and it cost me a grand total of zero dollars and zero cents with zero trips for supplies.

For storage, I grab a short piece of 2" square tubing and slide it in for the center connecting tube, and it takes up very little space and rolls around easily. I could even clamp that short piece securely in if I want and use this thing for a rolling table or stand or something when it's not being used as a rotisserie.

I can also give it an even smaller footprint if I don't use a 2" tube, and just nest them together clamping the receiver tubes side by side.
I didn't get a pic of that though.

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Again, it was made for small (narrow) body tubs like flatfender jeeps. With the spare tire carrier installed, I have a little over 2" of space from the end of the lug stud on it. I'm very happy with this design!

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I'll be moving it to my shop space soon, but in the mean time it's on a dirt floor. Luckily, I was able to add the factory "off road kit" to it! Which is just a 5/8" solid bar slid in the frame, with 12" wheels on the ends of the bar. I have four of these wheels but could only find two for the picture...

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Now I need to start replacing some sheetmetal... lots of it!

[CaddmannQ]

That will make the welding a joy.

I will have to flip my VW chassis over and over, so I may build something similar. I won't make it adjustable. I can sandbag if the balance isn't perfect.