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  #11  
Old 06-13-2018, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by dgreen97 View Post
heres what it looks like right now:

https://ibb.co/jaTp5J
https://ibb.co/kOdNQJ

The top 3 or so inches is what it looked like before and the bottom half is where I had to sand to get the scratches out.
I guess we should mention we post all pictures here and host them on our server. That way in 5 years, when someone is searching for a way to deal with cat scratch fever, the pictures of your dishwasher will be with the post, not gone when the link fails.
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  #12  
Old 06-13-2018, 09:49 PM
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I'm open to refinishing the whole surface because I've done 7/8 of it already with sandpaper.
Like Mr. Walker suggested, Scotch Bright pads in different cutting grits on s/s.

I never ever use sand paper unless it's above 1000. I will use the dark red Scotch bright pads or round pads on the threaded plastic type from red to the pink which is akin to using polish/wax for your ride for smooth shiny finishes etc. For a brushed effect on the finish, look into those that work counter tops/backings for kitchens, restaurants etc etc. We have a few here, or had a few here that did delve in such work or at least I know of two that did repairs and additions in s/s in the past.

For air craft windows and glare shields there is a product is called "Micro Mesh" that takes the product in need from one grit to cut and remove scratches to the finish polishing compound that will leave the item in need to a clear almost new finish, used on the expensive plastic/glass used on aircraft. One kit should do all of your surfaces easily. Different companies make these kits for different process's. We use what I linked on our 707's. One kit will do every window on two of ours.

The use of automotive finish compounds can be too aggressive on the finish, but judicious hand or long board backs will give you a consistent finish much like what it had from the factory. It will take sweat and time, but it will get there.

Now, the question is, once your done and satisfied, what is to keep the cat at bay?
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  #13  
Old 06-13-2018, 09:54 PM
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How do I get these out now so it's one uniform
It will be hard as hell getting any after the fact swirl marks etc. although straight line polishing with tooth past will leave a some what not so shiny finish, but you'd have to look at it with a magnifying glass to see them. One step further would have you doing the same thing with talcum powder after the tooth paste work. The talc even though it's thought to be smooth and not gritty, well it is but it will still cut a difference finish once used.
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  #14  
Old 06-14-2018, 12:10 AM
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Its been a couple years since I've had to do this sort of SS work but There are SS buffing and polishing pastes out there BUT! you will be in for a lot of elbow action to achieve the finish you want....

scotch bright, sand paper and other abrasives will get you a brushed satin finish and you can buff out the sanding marks but you will need to refine your sanding paper all the way down to 2500 grit...

Then you will need to cut with a buffing compound but I should mention you DO NOT want to use an orbital buffing motion you want to use a vibrating buffer and after all that you will want to buff it again with a brightening SS cleaner polish but I also forgot to mention you will need to clean between each prosses and when sanding you will also want to use a very light soapy water for the fine sanding prosses and that should all be done by hand until you get to the buffing compounds prosses

And So with all that if would be far cheaper and easier if you just replaced the door skin or go for a brushed SS look....
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  #15  
Old 06-14-2018, 06:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Ironman View Post
I guess we should mention we post all pictures here and host them on our server. That way in 5 years, when someone is searching for a way to deal with cat scratch fever, the pictures of your dishwasher will be with the post, not gone when the link fails.


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Try to help out here.

I am with other guys that say it will be impossible to match original finish. If you want an exact match, your best bet is to do the entire panel with the method you choose to get the result you want. The reason most stainless finishes are grained is because they hide scratches well, as long as they are with the grain. And you can have a slight chance of trying to hide some non grain scratches, but they still seem to stand out in the right reflection.

I used to use a belt sander at times to help blend in repairs. But you will have to do by the handle by hand. I would use the belt sander to get the deeper looking lines, then finish with scotchbrite pads to smooth to finish desired, or til I was tired of sanding and said good enough.



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  #16  
Old 06-14-2018, 06:29 AM
threepiece threepiece is offline
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I'm curious to know how an animal would scratch stainless steel. I can see that teeth might do it but this is a flat surface right? If it were claw marks are you sure the surface was actually scratched as opposed to material from the claw imbedded in the file like surface of a brushed stainless? I suppose it is too late to know at this point unless you were inclined to conduct an experiment with your pets.
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  #17  
Old 06-14-2018, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by threepiece View Post
I'm curious to know how an animal would scratch stainless steel. I can see that teeth might do it but this is a flat surface right? If it were claw marks are you sure the surface was actually scratched as opposed to material from the claw imbedded in the file like surface of a brushed stainless? I suppose it is too late to know at this point unless you were inclined to conduct an experiment with your pets.
It's an appliance, likely made in Korea or China, with a 'stainless look'. It's probably pretty close to true stainless but just enough to pass an eye exam. Combined with a really light gauge, not surprised at all that a set of claws could do some damage.

If you have kids or animals under the age of 25, shit is gonna happen to the newest item in any home. It's some sorta rule. My thought is that it's gonna happen again so why bother with making it match? The next time you buy appliances find a less delicate surface. As long as it keeps working, just keep using it and living your life. Another life tip--buy appliances off the scratch and dent aisle, that way you save money and they're already scratched before they show up.
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  #18  
Old 06-14-2018, 08:39 AM
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It’ll be a low grade stainless for sure. Likely magnetic too.

As far as grades of sandpaper, going anything over 800-1000 is overkill for your application, you want a brushed look, not polished.

Part of my job as a toolmaker/mouldmaker is polishing/repairing the finished surfaces. Generally for painted automotive plastics, 400 grit paper is the highest we go.

For clear plastics with a high finish, we go to 2000 paper, then switch to diamond paste. On a good stainless, from 800 up it starts to shine things up.


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  #19  
Old 06-14-2018, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by threepiece View Post
I'm curious to know how an animal would scratch stainless steel. I can see that teeth might do it but this is a flat surface right? If it were claw marks are you sure the surface was actually scratched as opposed to material from the claw imbedded in the file like surface of a brushed stainless? I suppose it is too late to know at this point unless you were inclined to conduct an experiment with your pets.
I have seen my cat , when confronted by a dog, leap onto the hood of my son's truck and while accelerating off the other side, leave claw marks for 4 inches about 1/16" deep.
I was amazed, and glad it did not leap on me.

I'd check for a set of keys and find which pet keyed the door
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  #20  
Old 06-14-2018, 10:00 AM
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One thing I haven't seen mentioned, Turn the panel over. most DW doors I have delt with, (usually for the door seal) are finished both sides. Most often, SS one side and white on the other. Lot's less work to turn it over than polish the SS.

As for brush finish on sheet stock: for aluminum, a white 3M scrubby (very fine) and lots of soapy (Dawn) water gives a nice even satin like finish. I use a surface sealer, like Zoops or Haipatich paste, paste wax /Jjohnson's floor wax, Seems to tone down the static electricity that gathers dust in "hard to clean" places in race cars.

For stainless, I use a little Bartenders friend and soapy water for the first polish and finish with Micro glaze 1.5 no water, (body shop supply store) and a couple of coats of paste wax.

I usually spray tacky glue on my block sanding rubber blocks, to hold the 3M pads, yet make them easy to remove.

One of my customers's wife's cat scratched the shit out of a shiny new doorslammer interior, right before he committed suicide. (jumped in a black plastic garbage bag, dug his way down to the middle of a full trash can, bashed his scull on the can and suffocated.)

RED
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