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  #11  
Old 07-03-2017, 08:09 PM
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It was bugging me as to why I had decided to run it as a pto genny rather than direct off the engine, so I went and took a peek at it.
The gear drive in the front is part of the case and not easily removed, confirmed by the manual.

Back to square one, I still need to find or build a "540" drive for my engine.
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Last edited by rustythe4x4; 07-03-2017 at 08:14 PM.
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  #12  
Old 03-10-2018, 09:59 AM
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I thought I would ressurect this thread and post what little progress has been made.
The transfer switch is installed, and the genny plug for outside is a box of parts to be assembled, but they are at least all collected and in one spot.
The RPM issue seems to have been resolved, Kevin was parting out a late model Chev 4x4 and the front diff will become my gearhead reduction to provide 540 for the genny.
Winter has been surprisingly productive this year both in the house and shop, so this project boils to the top of the list and receives a short amount of attention from time to time. Spring is around the corner so more progress should happen as soon as I can pull the engine from its icy storage.
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Learning boils down to "Repetition or the avoidance of pain", some people learn by doing, some by watching and some have to pee on the electric fence. - Norm W.

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And a man's foes shall be they of his own household
-Ironman quoting the Bible
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  #13  
Old 03-11-2018, 08:03 PM
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Modified the diff to work as my gearhead. Welded the spiders and capped the "long side"
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Learning boils down to "Repetition or the avoidance of pain", some people learn by doing, some by watching and some have to pee on the electric fence. - Norm W.

Mathew 10:36
And a man's foes shall be they of his own household
-Ironman quoting the Bible
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  #14  
Old 03-11-2018, 11:33 PM
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Nice. I was hoping to see a picture of this. What's the ratio?
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  #15  
Old 03-11-2018, 11:43 PM
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It's 3.73:1
Not ideal, but close enough. The engine will be operating at near peak horsepower but it will run a little faster than I wanted.
Now I just have to take the compressor that is mounted on the back of the engine off and see what I've got, and how I can mate the "gearhead" to the flywheel. I was thinking a love joy coupler, but I could use a u joint flange and use the yolk that is already on the diff.
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Learning boils down to "Repetition or the avoidance of pain", some people learn by doing, some by watching and some have to pee on the electric fence. - Norm W.

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  #16  
Old 03-18-2018, 12:12 PM
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On to the engine side.
Got the compressor pulled off to reveal a phenolic isolator and drive gear. The thought crossed my mind to use the same setup, but a friend that has worked on couplers like this warned me it would eat itself in minutes if not perfectly aligned.
One idea scrapped.
I'm still thinking of a love joy or a double roller chain coupler to drive the pinion. Or maybe a flange and u joint?
So many options. ..
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Living the country life


Learning boils down to "Repetition or the avoidance of pain", some people learn by doing, some by watching and some have to pee on the electric fence. - Norm W.

Mathew 10:36
And a man's foes shall be they of his own household
-Ironman quoting the Bible

Last edited by rustythe4x4; 03-18-2018 at 12:17 PM.
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  #17  
Old 03-18-2018, 01:39 PM
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I vote U joint Love Joy do not like misalignment much .You would be better with a Phelps- dodge style .
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  #18  
Old 03-20-2018, 08:31 AM
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Let me get this straight.

Your engine is a wee bit too small, and your going thru a couple of speed
changes with gearing, each will take a bit of power.

if it was me, I would look at changing that gearbox on the genset, to extend
the 1800 rpm shaft out the front, leaving the gearbox intact.

Looks to be the same amount of machining work versus what your doing now,
and with better reliability.
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  #19  
Old 03-20-2018, 07:50 PM
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I still thought this was to be driven by your tractor, but you didn't have a 540 pto. For emergency power, why not use a tractor? It seems too easy.

With the Kubota or such that you have, my suggestion is to pull the gearbox off, and make a new endplate and bearing support. The gear can be removed from the shaft and it can be coupled to your engine.
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  #20  
Old 03-20-2018, 10:08 PM
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540 is available from the tractor, but this is going to be set aside as a stand alone unit. I only have one tractor to use in the winter, and if we have a storm that knocks out power, it will be on snow removal duty, and it is a royal pain to remove the blower to run the genny. This winter has proved that point already. Not to mention the Kubota engine sips fuel in comparison to the tractor.

Yes, the engine is a wee bit underpowered when you use the typical 2 hp per KW, but with other genny setups I have done I found the 2hp rule to leave a LOT of headroom. I have also been looking at comparable 30kw units, and they are between 45 and 60 hp, typically.

The generator head is NOT convertible to 1800 rpm, the gearhead in the front is part of the bearing assembly, and it is married in the housing.

The losses in each step of this assembly is my compromise for budget. I am looking at building this unit at about a 10th of the cost of new, and about a quarter of the cost of used, assembled. Yep, im cheap. That, and I want to do it, to say I have done it. Like Kevin says, I know it can be done, I can see it.

Moving forward, it looks like I ill put together a short prop shaft to run the diff "gearhead" complete with slip shaft. That will take care of any movement since everything is built around rubber vibration isolators, also eliminating any misalignment woes.

I appreciate the thoughts and constructive criticism. It has made me rethink some of the bits and pieces of this, and it is helping bring it together. Cheaply.
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Living the country life


Learning boils down to "Repetition or the avoidance of pain", some people learn by doing, some by watching and some have to pee on the electric fence. - Norm W.

Mathew 10:36
And a man's foes shall be they of his own household
-Ironman quoting the Bible
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