SS100 “replica” Project Car

[CaddmannQ]

These are the seat rails, and they are adjustable, but there’s no lock on one side.
This relies on the seat frame itself to absorb a lot of force, and is a prime cause of seat frame breakage. I suffered this in more than one bucket seat car.

But this is only of academic interest as I am going to toss out this unnecessary weight.

This car is so small that nobody over 5’-0” will be wanting to move the seat forward! (They will want to move the pedals back if under 5’-6” or so.)

I’m just going to mount the seats all the way back and solid to the car.

But I might mount them with slots to allow for a small amount of assembly adjustment.

[mccutter]

Originally Posted by CaddmannQ

But I might mount them with slots to allow for a small amount of assembly adjustment.

How about drilling holes every inch or two so you can unbolt and adjust fore or aft if needed?

[CaddmannQ]

No, this car will be built to fit me. If somebody else is going to drive it they’d better fit the car.

I will put an adjustable toeboard for the passenger. My wife can’t touch the firewall with her feet.

[CaddmannQ]

Something that I don’t think I’ve explained properly is that the cockpit on this car is very short.

While it has plenty of legroom, there is not much room between the driver and the steering wheel. The steering wheel has no dish, it is flat, and it probably shouldn’t be any closer to the instrument panel.

Nobody is going to want the seat any closer to the wheel, but depending on their height they might want seat risers.

In any event I have put this seat riser business aside until I finish the seam welding. I went out after dinner and welded last night, and the rails are about 40% welded on the top. That means over all the frame rails are 80% complete.

I did some more work on the frame closures and they are getting welded up a bit more. I will need to roll the frame sideways and stand on a stool to get some of these welds into flat position.

[CaddmannQ]

I got all of the frame rails fully seamed, top and bottom now.

I did this with dozens of skip welds, so there are lots of stops and starts. There’s some pretty ugly ones right there. I might have to grind some of this out and patch it up. Not much though. The rails will be very solid.

I also got the rest of the floor ledgers welded to the crossmember.

Before I roll it again, I need to weld on the tunnel, and partially weld the tunnel to the crossmember.

The floor still needs work in the corners

[GWIZ]

Looking good.
Can't say if its a good idea or bad. some cars had a drain hole in the pan with a plastic plug.

[CaddmannQ]

Probably a good idea on a roadster. There is a factory drain hole in the tunnel.

I was going to make one below the gas tank.

[mccutter]

Originally Posted by CaddmannQ

Probably a good idea on a roadster. There is a factory drain hole in the tunnel.

I was going to make one below the gas tank.

Just install a couple bilge pumps...

[CaddmannQ]

Originally Posted by mccutter

Just install a couple bilge pumps...

You realize that California is in a continual cycle of drought.
Yet if I wash my truck it’s going to rain the next day.

How long do you think it’s going to rain if I build a roadster and it takes me five years?

I’m not expecting 40 days and 40 nights you understand… But my trees are sure thirsty.

[CaddmannQ]

2 bottles of argon later, I have the tunnel done, all the front closures, gussets, plug welds, and such are complete.

The mid-crossmember is welded in. It has 3 little gussets. Needs a fourth.

26 of 34 welds on the small angle iron crossmembers are done.

A few welds remain to do on the rear closures.

Then the main frame elements will all be welded