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  #11  
Old 04-04-2021, 11:07 AM
elmer elmer is offline
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Couple more pics
Added a little bit of traction.
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  #12  
Old 04-04-2021, 01:42 PM
elmer elmer is offline
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Originally Posted by digr View Post
When I make steps I tack two pieces of flat bar together and drill along the center then separate.
I really like this method.
If I had it to do over I would try this.
Wish I had a better / easier way to drill holes.
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  #13  
Old 04-04-2021, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camdigger View Post
I disagree. The best non slip surface is the purpose made stair material. Similar to expanded metal, but slit with a wavy blade. The resulting serrations are on the order of 1/4" pitch and result in a series of points about 1/8" wide. It is designed and used for the working floor on service rigs. Even coated with crude oil, it provides a good grip. The downside is that it acts like a cheese grater on flesh if one might happen to stumble and fall.

Although expanded metal provides a good grip, some has a flash from the slitting operation that does provide grip, but will shred the toughest boot sole much less any flesh that might contact it in a fall.

The stair material is also much stiffer than expanded metal due to the fact that it has much wider ribs tilted at a steeper angle and that it has a roughly 1 1/2" rib bent along the long edge. This material is so stiff that it requires no other support other than a rib across the cut end. The pieces are welded together along the long edge to make working floors 10' wide with no other support required. The material is thick enough that it will support hinges welded directly onto the edges to make 2' wide fold out wings
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  #14  
Old 04-04-2021, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by arizonian View Post
That is the stuff. It is also not directional like expanded metal can be.
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  #15  
Old 04-05-2021, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by elmer View Post
I was thinking of making some 1/4"deep cuts on the leading edge with a sawzall.
I recently put a new set of steps on FIL's IH 1486. The original ones taper narrower as you go down so he could not get both feet side by side on the bottom step. I bought a nice looking set of steps from Abilene machine machine but the bottom step was too high.

Anyway I built a new bottom step and I just used a 4-1/2" angle grinder with a standard wheel to make the grips. It worked pretty well.
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  #16  
Old 04-05-2021, 02:05 PM
elmer elmer is offline
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Originally Posted by JH35 View Post
I recently put a new set of steps on FIL's IH 1486. The original ones taper narrower as you go down so he could not get both feet side by side on the bottom step. I bought a nice looking set of steps from Abilene machine machine but the bottom step was too high.

Anyway I built a new bottom step and I just used a 4-1/2" angle grinder with a standard weel to make the grips. It worked pretty well.

4 steps, thats a real tractor there.
I used a angle grinder also.
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  #17  
Old 04-07-2021, 08:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JH35 View Post
I recently put a new set of steps on FIL's IH 1486. The original ones taper narrower as you go down so he could not get both feet side by side on the bottom step. I bought a nice looking set of steps from Abilene machine machine but the bottom step was too high.

Anyway I built a new bottom step and I just used a 4-1/2" angle grinder with a standard wheel to make the grips. It worked pretty well.
My buddy has a 1486 and he bought those same steps, had the same problem with the bottom step being too high, and I pretty much had the same solution. What are the odds of that

I never got finished pics. They painted it to match the rest of the tractor.
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  #18  
Old 04-08-2021, 04:47 AM
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Lovely job elmer


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Originally Posted by slip knot View Post
Nice!

I can recall when I laughed at the old guys putting additional steps on tractors now I'm one of those old guys
I've always been a fan of steps. jumping up and down off a machine all day long can often be the hardest thing on the body if you're doing something like fencing or cleanup work where it's all on/off the tractor.
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  #19  
Old 04-09-2021, 09:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Shade View Post
My buddy has a 1486 and he bought those same steps, had the same problem with the bottom step being too high, and I pretty much had the same solution. What are the odds of that

I never got finished pics. They painted it to match the rest of the tractor.
Pretty cool! like minds or something....
The 1486 I believe came with 18.4-38 rear tires but the FIL's has 20.8-38's so I think it stands higher. He also has a 986 with 16.9-38's which really looks like the same tractor and stands much lower.

One may have heavier components but they look the same. D436 engine vs DT 436. Both are turned up higher than stock power. the 986 needs an inframe but it just plants and sprays. I'm basically the only one that runs it, except for chopping stalks as my wife's uncle likes to do that.

The Abilene machine steps was FIL's Christmas present from me, install included. I bought them because they were about half price of the ones at Shoup. They did not install real nice anyway, plus the extra step fab. Oh well, FIL is thrilled with the steps and that makes everything good.
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  #20  
Old 04-09-2021, 05:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JH35 View Post
Pretty cool! like minds or something....
The 1486 I believe came with 18.4-38 rear tires but the FIL's has 20.8-38's so I think it stands higher. He also has a 986 with 16.9-38's which really looks like the same tractor and stands much lower.

One may have heavier components but they look the same. D436 engine vs DT 436. Both are turned up higher than stock power. the 986 needs an inframe but it just plants and sprays. I'm basically the only one that runs it, except for chopping stalks as my wife's uncle likes to do that.

The Abilene machine steps was FIL's Christmas present from me, install included. I bought them because they were about half price of the ones at Shoup. They did not install real nice anyway, plus the extra step fab. Oh well, FIL is thrilled with the steps and that makes everything good.
That must have been the pair of tractors to have if you were an IH fan at the time, because that is what the family I help out has been using since they were new. The 1486 has always been used to pull the planter and they are expecting to hit 15,000 hours on it soon. It has had some overhaul work on it over the years. They have a 9330 steiger now that has taken over pulling the planter, but the 1486 still pulls and drill and rakes hay and runs a windrow inverter.

The 986 they use mostly for hay. It has about 10,000 hours on it now. They pull a big discbine, and NH 575 baler with it .

I'm pretty sure judging by the pics, and from memory that those are the same steps they bought out of a catalog but I will have to look at it next time I'm over there.
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