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  #1  
Old 10-21-2018, 02:36 PM
digger doug's Avatar
digger doug digger doug is offline
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Default Retrofit torch for Snap On plasma Ya-5550 questions

So I picked one of these up for cheap, the torch is shot.

I see it's more modern than the HF start I am used to,
and it looks like a s-75 or a pt-60.

I am looking for one that is common, so the consumables
are plenty, and one that the cup is straight sided (like the pt-31
I put on an old hf start 40 amp unit) so using a straight edge
is easier.
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  #2  
Old 10-29-2018, 08:43 PM
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monckywrench monckywrench is offline
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Check on Weldingweb too.

This Google string yields a fair number of hits and is how I search forums:

plasma torch replacement site:weldingweb.com
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  #3  
Old 12-23-2018, 06:08 PM
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Well, I looked and looked, and couldn't find out much.

so went with the pt-60, and just got done re-engineering it
in.

So the $150 snap on plasma cutter works.
The torch was $80, and I made more work for myself than
I should have.

The cord is 25' long and looked good, so I wanted to keep it.

The same vendor had the same torch with a 16' cable (along with
a european style dins connector) for $140.

I also found the mating connector with right angle bracket
for an additional $30.

The "blowback" style of torch starting is much better than the Hi-Freq
that I am used to, although I have not tested it much with rusty
and painted steel.
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  #4  
Old 12-24-2018, 12:04 AM
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MetalWolf MetalWolf is offline
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Got pics of the set up....
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Old 12-24-2018, 12:52 PM
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digger doug digger doug is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MetalWolf View Post
Got pics of the set up....
It was all I could doo to stuff the handle, and get it closed up.

If you need to do this, I can walk you thru it.

I assumed (beacuse every other plasma torch I worked on was this way)
the air hose also had the power (55 amps)

So I spent considerable time modifying the old air fitting, to add the
new bard (and power lug) to it, friend silver soldered it for me.

In actuality, the 55 amps comes up a pair of 16 ga wires.....don't
ask me how they pull this trick off.

And while the machine is snap on, the lead is marked Hypertherm.

So if you need to do this, you just need to marry up the old air fitting,
to the new torch's hose barb.

Everything else bolts tight up.

Also, the trigger is not standard, even though it has blades with solder holes,
when I soldered them, they came out of the body (can't take any heat at all)
So I should have seeked out (and bought) the tiny slide on blade terminals
(blade looks to be 1/8" wide ) need the female part to crimp on.
-------------------------------- OR -------------------------------------

simply buy the aformentioned torch with leads, and connector.

Mount the mating connector on the front of the power supply,
and there you have allot more room to make up the leads
into the connector.

Plus you get a quick release torch.

Last edited by digger doug; 12-24-2018 at 01:10 PM.
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  #6  
Old 12-24-2018, 07:29 PM
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MetalWolf MetalWolf is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digger doug View Post
It was all I could doo to stuff the handle, and get it closed up.

If you need to do this, I can walk you thru it.

I assumed (beacuse every other plasma torch I worked on was this way)
the air hose also had the power (55 amps)

So I spent considerable time modifying the old air fitting, to add the
new bard (and power lug) to it, friend silver soldered it for me.

In actuality, the 55 amps comes up a pair of 16 ga wires.....don't
ask me how they pull this trick off.

And while the machine is snap on, the lead is marked Hypertherm.

So if you need to do this, you just need to marry up the old air fitting,
to the new torch's hose barb.

Everything else bolts tight up.

Also, the trigger is not standard, even though it has blades with solder holes,
when I soldered them, they came out of the body (can't take any heat at all)
So I should have seeked out (and bought) the tiny slide on blade terminals
(blade looks to be 1/8" wide ) need the female part to crimp on.
-------------------------------- OR -------------------------------------

simply buy the aformentioned torch with leads, and connector.

Mount the mating connector on the front of the power supply,
and there you have allot more room to make up the leads
into the connector.

Plus you get a quick release torch.
No don't have the need for it at the moment was just wondering how it came out looking as I was trying to picture it in my head
mainly because I understand things better visually than by written direction for the most part... its just easier that way for me...
and it had me a bit curious as I am at a later date wanting to make my Plasma and MiG torch's a wee bit longer
my MiG torch is only 10' id like a longer torch like 16' but I am unsure of how long I can make the torch before it becomes a feeding problem as don't the size of the machine make some difference like I mean its ability to feed wire a further distance due to the feed motor
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  #7  
Old 12-25-2018, 12:41 PM
digger doug's Avatar
digger doug digger doug is offline
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Well, I've got some time on it today.

Never had anything other than hi-freq start.

This works right now, as the air comes in, it retracts the electrode,
to draw an arc. No waiting around while the air comes up, the hi-freq
crackles, and then the arc is initiated.

I was cutting very rusty steel, and when it went out, I would re-trigger,
to no avail.

Normally with the Hi-freq, it would re-light.

So when you cut for a short time, and the arc goes off (either from loss of cut or you let off the trigger) is goes thru a "cool down" timer, where the air keeps running (the Hi-freq ones do this too).

But recall, when the air is flowing, the nozzle is already retracted.

So you have to wait for the air to drop out before re-starting.

With the hi-freq ones, even if air is flowing, re-triggering runs it
thru the start cycle again (turning on the hi-freq).

Now my old Max 40 will just cut 1/2" plate.

This even when turned up to 55 amps will not, I tried several times.

I need to put a scope on the output, should be d.c. negative.

If one or more of the diodes have gone, it could be sending A.C.
to the torch, and that would overheat the electrode. And cut
less.

The autopsy on the original torch shows a melted electrode (or
maybe someone tried to use it without an actual electrode in place
IDK)

Last edited by digger doug; 12-25-2018 at 12:49 PM.
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