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Old 02-27-2019, 07:28 PM
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Default Welder Upgrade

I picked up an Allmand 180 amp AC welder yesterday with two 220v extension cords. The weld leads were all cracked and not repairable. It was free to me.
Replaced the weld leads with some good ones I had picked up over the years. Rod holder needed some work, Ground clamp was shot. Replaced the rod holder and the clamp. The plug ins on the front of the welder were unique so have to salvage them, soldered in the old ends to the new cables.

Plugged it all back in and ran a bead with 5/32 6011 and it ran pretty damned good for being 15F outside. The outer shell had been repainted so no numbers to select amps. Guessed on the amp selection and it was real close. I will put it up for sale on her local FB trading post account.
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Old 02-28-2019, 03:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milomilo View Post
I picked up an Allmand 180 amp AC welder yesterday with two 220v extension cords. The weld leads were all cracked and not repairable. It was free to me.
Replaced the weld leads with some good ones I had picked up over the years. Rod holder needed some work, Ground clamp was shot. Replaced the rod holder and the clamp. The plug ins on the front of the welder were unique so have to salvage them, soldered in the old ends to the new cables.

Plugged it all back in and ran a bead with 5/32 6011 and it ran pretty damned good for being 15F outside. The outer shell had been repainted so no numbers to select amps. Guessed on the amp selection and it was real close. I will put it up for sale on her local FB trading post account.
I tried looking up the face plate for that machine and can't find one like it what year was it made found a craftsman looks a little like it and a Forney that was somewhat close but power switches were on the left side, not center was that industrial grade for its time?
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Old 02-28-2019, 08:00 AM
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I found a thread on weldingweb where a guy had one, looked to be a bit older. No real info, as he was asking the same question about the taps.

You might try calling Allmand. They are still in business, making light units and small TLBs. We used to supply backhoe assemblies for them.

They got bought out by Briggs and Stratton, apparently.

contact number for customer service. 1-800-562-1373
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Old 02-28-2019, 04:33 PM
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The one pictured here has what appear to be the old markings. 2-9 and the three taps S, G and C. (solder, ground, cutting?)

https://weldingweb.com/showthread.ph...Allmand-welder
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Old 02-28-2019, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by USMCPOP View Post
The one pictured here has what appear to be the old markings. 2-9 and the three taps S, G and C. (solder, ground, cutting?)

https://weldingweb.com/showthread.ph...Allmand-welder
Thanks Pop. I guessed and used the center tap when I did the weld. Just got lucky I guess. Maybe those 3 are still grounds????? but give you a different range?????
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Old 03-04-2019, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by milomilo View Post
Thanks Pop. I guessed and used the center tap when I did the weld. Just got lucky I guess. Maybe those 3 are still grounds????? but give you a different range?????
Chris. Maybe, more like different polarity +/- and or High and Low amp tap setteing.
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Old 03-04-2019, 08:28 PM
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Chris. Maybe, more like different polarity +/- and or High and Low amp tap setteing.
AC machine, so no polarity options. Soon as the weather changes and the snow melts off I will test out the 3 lower taps and see if they are low, medium and high as I expect.
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Old 03-10-2019, 12:54 PM
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Cool score. The nice thing about tapped machines is no rotary switch to stick/break.

Before I had a lathe I cut down a couple of cylindrical modern cable ends to fit tapered sockets on an old Hobart TIG by chucking the brass in a hand drill then spinning it against a flap disc on an angle grinder. Ghetto but works fairly well.
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Old 03-10-2019, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by monckywrench View Post
Cool score. The nice thing about tapped machines is no rotary switch to stick/break.

Before I had a lathe I cut down a couple of cylindrical modern cable ends to fit tapered sockets on an old Hobart TIG by chucking the brass in a hand drill then spinning it against a flap disc on an angle grinder. Ghetto but works fairly well.
I did the same thing with copper a few years back and I had a lathe at that time, but this method seemed much faster, and it was too. Sometimes ghetto is the right way to go.
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