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  #41  
Old 01-14-2010, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digr View Post
Gonna have to make me one of those face plates nice!
I guess I'm spoiled.

I have faceplates for all 3 of my lathes.

Back before I got rid of the old WWII lathe I had for a while, I used a shaft welded to the center of a piece of heavy plate. I'd faced the plate off after welding onto the shaft and chucking the shaft into the 3 jaw. That old girl was big and slow. Balance was a non issue most of the time. Refacing the plate after mounting made it as accurate as any plate could be.
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  #42  
Old 01-14-2010, 07:02 PM
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Digr--- Great post. I thought you just used the hole saw to rough in the undersize holes while the two pieces of steel were clamped together. I then figured you tramed them and bore to final size in a mill. Guess don`t see need for a lathe or am I missing something. Lathe man resorting to a mill! Doesn`t that beat all????? lol
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I squared the pieces on the mill with them clamped together then tacked them together put them back on the mill and used a hole saw and a boring head to Finnish then milled off the tacks. Thats my story and I am sticking to it.
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  #43  
Old 01-15-2010, 12:20 AM
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It could also be done with the RT. Wind up with a coupla extra large washers.
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  #44  
Old 01-15-2010, 02:12 AM
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Thanks 'digr'.

Mr. Jerry, those big washers come in handy sometimes.
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  #45  
Old 01-15-2010, 04:10 AM
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What is an RT? (sorry for the newbie question)
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  #46  
Old 01-15-2010, 04:35 AM
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I think it is "rotary table" special kind of vise used on a vertical mill, kind of looks like a lathe chuck.
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  #47  
Old 01-15-2010, 06:21 AM
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Yes, a rotating table. It can be used vertically or horizontal. When clamped down onto your mill table and a part clamped to it you can rotate it and allow the mill to cut a perfect circle. It would save removing all the metal. The down side in this case is you would be making a full cut with the end mill.

It is hard to remove all the chips after you get a little way down.
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  #48  
Old 01-15-2010, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
It is hard to remove all the chips after you get a little way down
Using air pressure to clean the chips usually has you going into the house for coffee and looking like a metal chip Chia Pet. Metal chips + chest hair + starched shirts and bib over-alls = a PITA. Scratching an itch usually draws blood.
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  #49  
Old 01-15-2010, 11:37 AM
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So, I have a question. Is this a normal/typical belt width of 2" x whatever length you need or can find supplied ready made or can you have use of wider widths and that be useful?

As I've seen belts pretty much as wide and as long as your pocket book can afford, that why I've asked.

Would it be of any benifit to make one of these 'new fangled' 'hi-tech' 'multi-dodad' belt sander/grinders in a 4" or 6" width over 2" wide?

Or is too wide(anything over 2") just 'too wide' for practical everyday Joe purposes?
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  #50  
Old 01-15-2010, 12:19 PM
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There are several basic widths and your use seems to determine it. Most hobby users are one inch or two inch. I like my 72" but I am looking forward to the 48" and I am really looking foward to the Diger grinder.
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