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  #1  
Old 06-02-2007, 06:50 PM
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Bobthewelder Bobthewelder is offline
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Default Ring Roller Experts HELP!

OK, here is where I am at, there is a slight explanation in the metalurgy section. I took pics, I need to know what would be the best route to frame this thing. They will all be driven by chain and gears. The gear and hub on the lonely roller which will also drive the entire setup is slightly larger as I planned on two driving, then after Surplus Center closed I went to TSC and spent way too much on a hub and sprocket that I have to weld, no big deal, I can line them up. I'm just thinking which would be the most effective givin the blunders I have already created. Should the top single roller be the up and downer, or the twins? I could use either a bottle jack or an ACME screw from a vise, as I have a pile of them, but only one spare ACME nut. I'm at a loss how to proceed. I will attach what I have so far.
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  #2  
Old 06-02-2007, 07:33 PM
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I'd say drive the lower two, and make them the up/down. Leave the upper to roll free.

If you can frame it out where the upper wheel is open on one side, it'll allow you to still get your ring out when finished.


My first attempt at a roller (which works, but already needs to be redone) I used 2x2 receiver hitch tubing. I only used a 6 ton HF bottle jack and it resists flexing only being attached at one end. I tried a direct drive on the upper, stationary wheel without any sort of pillow blocks--that's where I screwed up. There is so much pressure on such a small point with the upper wheel driven that it tends to get stuck. When I re-do it, the bottoms will be driven and the top freewheeling to act as a pivot.
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  #3  
Old 06-02-2007, 07:50 PM
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Dubby are there pics of your roller here so I can compare?
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Old 06-02-2007, 08:41 PM
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Nope, sorry bob. Pics don't exist of my crap-traption . It was a test bed for a future, bigger roller.


Basic design though-- I used hardened caster wheels as my "rollers". Lowers are greasable, and bolted to 2 pieces of 4" channel that's been welded to serve as a base platform. Used a receiver hitch mount on receiver tubing as a guide. This assembly is pushed up by the 6 ton jack. The top caster was just welded to a 3/8ths rod, supported by two steel tabs, nothing fancy...

It's capable of rolling the fire out of 1/4 bar. The wheel in the picture is "the first" ring--1"x 3/16ths, 8" circle. The second one I did you can see in my cart-build thread. I've attempted with some success 1" square tubing, 14ga. It rolled it, but it took a lot of damn work...mostly without the aide of the handle. Ended up pushing it through by hand.

edit: found a picture of my crap-traption...
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Old 06-02-2007, 09:04 PM
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Bob,
I have both sizes of Shop Outfitters ring rollers. The small one uses a threaded bolt to apply pressure and the top roller is the movable one. It is pretty limited to what it will handle and is "open faced" meaning that the ring can be removed anytime. Since I needed to be able to roller heavier material I jumped off and ordered the big floor mounted roller. It's a nice piece of equipment for sure. It's designed where the bottom 2 rollers move up by means of hydraulic jack. I don't have it where I can look at the moment, but I'm going to say it's about a 4 ton jack. The top roller is what is connected to the big wheel that is turned to pull the material thru the rollers. You can roll a complete circle and remove it by pulling one pin on the top shaft and pulling the drive out of the top roller. This allows the circle to be removed. On the Shop Outfitters bender there are 3 positions for the bottom rollers. The closest allows the tightest circle but also requires the greatest pressure. If you plan to roll tight rings make your 2 rollers fairly close together. If you want to do stuff like gate arches then leave the rollers farther apart and you can do it easier and probably handle heavier material. Hope this helps if you can understand my ramblings.
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Old 06-02-2007, 09:08 PM
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Bobthewelder Bobthewelder is offline
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Much help, thank you for the response. I will look into a way of making the pillow blocks adjustable by drilling additional holes. Thank you!
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Old 06-02-2007, 09:13 PM
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You're very welcome. I don't try to put a lot of pressure on the material when I roll it. I'd rather take a little more time and run it thru a couple of extra passes. The heaviest stuff I've rolled so far is 3/8 x 2 flat. That felt like it was nearing the limits of my tool. Ring rollers are pretty simple tools and I'm sure you can make one that will work great.
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Old 06-02-2007, 10:06 PM
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a word of caution.....

you need to have a fine control over the jack pressure since a small amount of jack travel can make a big diff. in how much the bend is...

dont ask one ring roller to bend 4 inch stock and then ask it to bend 1/4 inch stock............aint happening with bottle jacks......

most shops have 2 or 3 ring rollers to handle various jobs..or have motor drives w/ fine thread adjusters for the center bending ring so that they can get repeatability...........

start small and then you can see what you need in terms of bending larger stock......

most ornamental stuff is less than one inch anyway
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Old 06-02-2007, 10:17 PM
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Bob, did you look at this really simple one that Scratch built?

Ring Roller

Or for that matter, did you see the list of Rollers in the Project Index? There's lots of good ideas in there.
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Old 06-02-2007, 10:19 PM
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I've noticed that if I roll something, don't change the jack, then insert another piece it will come out too small. There is a scale on the SO large roller but it's not exact as far as repeatability. I normally release the pressure on the jack between pieces and then come back to obtain the same size. A lot of the stuff I build doesn't require multiple parts the same size so it's usually not an issue to repeat the exact size.
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