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  #11  
Old 11-24-2023, 01:12 AM
threepiece threepiece is offline
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Yes, relating to post 9 and 10, a variation of this.

1” long pieces of 1/2” angle could be welded to an angle beam spaced accordingly. This angle beam can then be clamped to the work and used as a fixture without the need for clamping the individual pegs/hooks.

Holding the coat hook/peg into the crotch of the angle steel locators with one hand and MIG welding with the other is all that is needed.

Maintaining a small gap between the peg and the base plate will allow a hinge point to be created by the first tack weld. Without a small gap It will be difficult or impossible to square-up the pin after the first tack weld. I always place a piece of MIG wire in between parts that I am welding if they need to be square.
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  #12  
Old 11-25-2023, 07:24 PM
willyfixit willyfixit is offline
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What I would try if it were mine and if I understand this correctly.

Solution 1

Because I have a cnc mill, I would machine slightly oversize 2" circular pockets in something like a piece of 1/2" x 3" flat stock, a little deeper than the 2" round thicknesses. The spacing's would be the distance the hooks have to be apart and the distance in would be the distance in would be from the edge of the sign that the pegs have to be. In the center of these circular pockets I would machine smaller circular pockets that would hold small neodymium magnets and epoxy them in. I would weld a couple of legs on one side that could go against the front edge of the sign base to set the distance in for the pegs and the height. On the other side, I would weld a couple of legs that would fit between the sign letters to keep the jig upright. If the sign length is consistent, a leg could be welded at each end to keep the horizontal peg spacing.

Solution 2

The same as above only drill the 2" holes with an annular cutter, hole saw, or burn with cnc plasma in a piece of something like 1/4" by 3" or thinner. Then partially drill in a separate thicker piece of metal for the magnets using the same spacing and epoxy in. Tack weld the two pieces together.

This way with the jig upside down, the pegs could be put put in the 2" holes with the 2" round and held by the magnets; then the whole thing flipped over and placed on the sign and all pegs welded.
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  #13  
Old 11-27-2023, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scratch View Post
I’m not really looking for a better idea on how to weld the pieces together, but how to align and hold the pieces together vertical, straight and plumb while they’re being welded. Some sort of jig or something…
In general, when you cut the pieces out on the backside of the hooks, you create 2 tabs that are 1/2" long and protrude about 1/8" from the base which attaches to the wall plate.
When you make the wall plate you burn two rectangular holes 1/8" wide by 1/2" long. The hook tabs fit into these holes and you can weld them from the backside. At least that's what I do.
Its lined up and plug welded that way
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  #14  
Old 11-27-2023, 06:14 PM
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You have a CNC plasma table at your disposal and can't make a fixture? You're not trying hard enough.

I assume your coat hooks are evenly spaced on every rack and the same quantity more or less. Put your noggin to work and make a fixture that will hold more coat hooks than the longest name. Two pieces with slightly less than half of a hole to hold the stems spaced 2" apart and some toggle clamps, with another few pieces as the base and verticals.
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  #15  
Old 12-05-2023, 02:11 PM
andrew22 andrew22 is offline
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Cool setup you got with the CNC plasma table. For welding the hooks onto the sign, have you tried using strong magnets to hold them in place? I've seen folks using magnets for similar projects, might give you better control. Also, check out those magnetic welding holders, they could be handy.
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  #16  
Old 12-06-2023, 12:29 PM
BukitCase BukitCase is offline
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Before you get TOO carried away welding around magnets, google

Curie temperature

Not a problem for light tacks, but might be for full welds... Steve
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  #17  
Old 12-07-2023, 10:42 AM
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CaddmannQ CaddmannQ is offline
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My welding magnets will never see the curie temperature, because the plastic paint on them starts to smoke from the heat before I get anywhere close and I stop welding from the smoke.
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  #18  
Old 12-07-2023, 10:46 AM
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CaddmannQ CaddmannQ is offline
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Just to drag us further down the rabbit hole, this started me thinking how much I would like to have a magnetizer/demagnetizer.

It also started me wondering how long you have to hold the puddle molten before the disorganized particles will align to the earth?

It might more quickly align to a strong local welding magnet.

Woohoohoof. It’s still too early in the am to think about these things.

(I don’t know what that word means by the way. I just made a noise and that’s what the iPhone typed.)
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  #19  
Old 12-07-2023, 12:12 PM
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greywynd greywynd is online now
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I had a demagnetizer I made, gutted the armature off a small three phase motor leaving the outer shell. I then hooked the field coils together, I think in series, and added a 120v plug to the end connections. (Check that you have some resistance before plugging it all in.)

The area in the centre can be used to mag/demagnetize screwdrivers, wrenches and the like. Not as convenient as a flat top, but still usable for a lot of things, and most of us can scrounge those parts for free.


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  #20  
Old 12-07-2023, 01:28 PM
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I've done the same thing, but with a shaded pole fan motor. Just toss the armature.
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