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  #41  
Old 12-09-2021, 11:01 PM
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Use a smaller wedge or a cape chisel.


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  #42  
Old 12-10-2021, 03:05 AM
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It looks to me like a tapered round punch would do the job.

You may need turn a taper on a bit of rod and then roughly grind a flat on each side so its not so wide as to touch the sides of the slot.

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  #43  
Old 12-10-2021, 10:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldRedFord View Post
Kind of at a loss as how to solve it.

Worst case I chuck the quill in the lathe after removing the drill chuck and bore out the taper shank till it loosens up.

If it's been reamed out too much could it be changed from a #4 to a #5?
I think it should be easy to make a drift key to fit the slot and whack on it. I've always made my own.
But if that did not work, I would apply heat to the spindle. Not a lot, maybe 200 degrees, and hit the drift key with a 5 lb hammer. Once should do it.

It is possible someone used talcum powder on it. I use talcum on the JT taper so my chuck does not fall off when pulling out of a deep hole, and I know that stuff keeps things in.
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  #44  
Old 12-11-2021, 09:28 PM
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After suggestions here I drilled the back of the tang off and was able to free the chuck.

But...

I had noticed a set screw threaded into the quill to contact the tool in the spindle.

Now I understand why. The top or narrow part of the taper is buggard up to where the flats of the tang will not lock the tool and it will spin in the taper.

Plan is to machine a new one. I think I can borrow the reamer for the taper.
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  #45  
Old 12-11-2021, 11:59 PM
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The chuck is a jacobs ball bearing superchuck. Look to see which model, and I would suggest cleaning it, and/or rebuilding it if need be. IMO they are one of, if not the best chucks out there.

The tang does not lock a taper shank item into place. It really shouldn’t drive the tapered item either, though most believe that. It really is only there for removal. If it was that far in, I’m thinking the female morse taper in the spindle had been damaged/reworked before, allowing the taper shank of the drill chuck arbor to go in too far. And with the addition of the set screw, someone thought they had a work around.


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  #46  
Old 12-12-2021, 01:52 PM
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someone thought they had a work around.

Yes that set screw certainly creates a lot of work around machine shops,
Much like thr guide pin in an R8 mill spindle.
In theory it orients the collets the same each tine inserted and makes the mill more accurate.
in practice the first time the spindle and cutter overload the collets grip and it tuns in the bore under cutter loading you have a big problem to get the tooling out and the bore cleaned up.
a better solution IMHO is to make the collets softer than the spindle so all the damage is ejected with the tool.
Note this can be caused by operator error in not cleaning the shank and bore trapping a chip in the bore or by loose tolerance tooling in a well used and slightly worn bore.
I went through this a couple of times when I was a partner in a small machine shop.

When I got the mill I currently own the first thing I did was remove that pin.
I have seen evidence of some slippage when using high load tooling but no significant damage to either the tools or the spindle.
I do take care to clean both surfaces and tighten the draw bar paying attention to hqw the tooling seats in the bore
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  #47  
Old 12-12-2021, 06:08 PM
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I'd look to get a new MT shank for the chuck and see if it fixes the problem before I would mess with the quill.
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  #48  
Old 12-12-2021, 08:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldRedFord View Post
After suggestions here I drilled the back of the tang off and was able to free the chuck.

But...

I had noticed a set screw threaded into the quill to contact the tool in the spindle.

Now I understand why. The top or narrow part of the taper is buggard up to where the flats of the tang will not lock the tool and it will spin in the taper.

Plan is to machine a new one. I think I can borrow the reamer for the taper.
1) As others said take some measurements
if it turns it is the spindle, quill is the bearing housing.

2) looks like the spindle extends past the quill by 8"
or I don't know what I am seeing.


You should price a new spindle, may only cost $200. in the past company's were happy to get rid of old stock.
had one company try to sell me a new gear box for a horizontal mill at the same price of the few gears I needed, I could not wait for shipping so purchased the parts and next day air.
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  #49  
Old 12-12-2021, 08:31 PM
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The chuck is a Jacobs 18N. I now have two of those in my tool cabinet.

Things have spun in the spindle a time or two. The chips are from when I drilled the back of the tang off.

Edit

The big end of the taper in the spindle measures 1.345 inches. In the PDF GWIZ posted the measurement should be 1.310
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Last edited by OldRedFord; 12-12-2021 at 10:57 PM.
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  #50  
Old 12-14-2021, 08:34 PM
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Quill is about three bannans in diameter.
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