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  #31  
Old 11-28-2021, 12:04 PM
Grizz Grizz is offline
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a lot of great wisdom in this thread, how ever with the way the supply chain has broken, making our own anything may be the way of the future of quite a while, I won't be sending anything for scrap anytime in the near future.
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  #32  
Old 11-28-2021, 01:29 PM
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a lot of great wisdom in this thread, how ever with the way the supply chain has broken, making our own anything may be the way of the future of quite a while, I won't be sending anything for scrap anytime in the near future.
Yup...
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  #33  
Old 11-28-2021, 06:43 PM
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Im debating on doimg some YouTube videos on resurrecting this radial drill. Doesnt need much, just one bronze bushing remachined.
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  #34  
Old 11-29-2021, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by OldRedFord View Post
Im debating on doimg some YouTube videos on resurrecting this radial drill. Doesnt need much, just one bronze bushing remachined.
Why hell yes,you need to do some you tubes.
If i knew how i would be doing some,on everything i do.
I know i watch youtubes all the time.
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  #35  
Old 12-01-2021, 08:04 PM
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Current drill press status. Not much to the power feed side of things.
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  #36  
Old 12-01-2021, 08:12 PM
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Here is the bronze bushing.

Ive secided to sleeve it with a 1 1/8 od by 1" id sleeve and press in place.

2nd picture shows the bushing and shadt, handle and gear set.
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  #37  
Old 12-04-2021, 09:33 PM
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I successfully reassembled the internals.

Not as intimidating as it looked when I started.

Everything functions mechanically as it should. There are a few electrical changes I am making from original so the internal/external switches didn't get remounted. Plus one of them was broken.
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  #38  
Old 12-04-2021, 11:07 PM
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Don't know about your drill, but one I took a part had an oil pump to pump oil back up to the top gears.

IIRC on some there is a top sight glass that you can see the oil "flowing" as an indication the pump is pumping.

Try to check out the pump if you can.
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  #39  
Old 12-09-2021, 07:19 PM
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For the life of me, I cannot get the Morse taper drill chuck out of the quill. Both should be a #4.

I've tried heat, pb blaster, a punch between the tang and quill. My #4 Morse wedge should fit in the space but will not. It's like either the chuck shank is a #3 in a #4 taper or it's bern reamed out a few too many times.

Kind of at a loss as how to solve it.

Worst case I chuck the quill in the lathe after removing the drill chuck and bore out the taper shank till it loosens up.

If it's been reamed out too much could it be changed from a #4 to a #5?
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  #40  
Old 12-09-2021, 08:53 PM
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You should be able to drill out the upper portion of the tang and then use your #4 to drive it out.
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