Tight Lug Nuts!

[Stone]

Lug Nuts From, well “you know”.
I have a small camp trailer. It has just 4 lug nuts per wheel. One wheel was no problem to remove. I used an impact air wrench and “bang”, it was off.
The other wheel is a problem.
1. First I applied a liquid wrench. 2. I used an air impact wrench.
3. I used an electric impact wrench. 4. I used a cheater Bar 4 feet long and about killed myself when it would come off.
5. I said some words I haven’t used for a while. But they would not listen.
I don’t want to screw up the bolt heads, so I stopped.
My next step was to heat the lugs up. If I do will I compromise the properties of the bolts?
Any suggestions?
And I thought that I new everything!

[Thud]

Left hand threads maybe?

[sbi1]

I would think that if these lugs are seized that badly, then you run a pretty good chance of needing new studs & lugs when you get through anyway. Assuming that they are not left handed, as mentioned previously. Personally, I don't have much patience for seized bolts, but I do have a 1" IR impact that's good for 1600 ft/lb :evil: . Take em' off, or break em' off is my policy.

[Stone]

Thank you for you assistance.
When I took off the one wheel, the nuts were righty tighty! And lefty loosy!
It does stand to reason that if they are that tight, someone has stretched the bolts anyway.
:evil:So! “Out comes the torch” Haaaaaaaaaaa Ha! :evil:

[Sberry]

For a little trailer they might be able to be re-used but now you know why you spray lug nuts or any bolt for that matter with some light lubricant when installing. Use a couple drops of that liquid wrench when you put them back together.

[LW Hiway]

My next step was to heat the lugs up. If I do will I compromise the properties of the bolts?

If, in the future you need to do so, heating them with an O/A set with a brazing/welding pipe to better spot heat the nuts only, go for it. You might want to replace the nuts afterward. But, to be honest, I never have unless there was an obvious problem with the threads or seat.

I have heated my stuck nuts cherry red on one side or the other for years and other than the discomfort, ugh, never mind.

Would anybody ever not use "Never Seize or Anti-Seize" on their nuts before installing? I think not. We all know this works when your changing a flat on the side of the Interstate at 3 in the morning while it's raining cats and possums.

Anti-Seize causes no loss of the torque applied to your nuts that I'm aware of. (we're talking lug nuts with taper'd wedge profile). Just time consuming, sometimes messy and your friends may comment on your attention to detail.

FWIW, going to the tire shop for new tires, leaves me having to re-check the work done by their technicians. I trust no one when it comes to my nuts. My life depends on them being all there, tight but removable with the appropriate supplied tool for the wheels/vehicle when the time comes.

[Sberry]

Would anybody ever not use "Never Seize or Anti-Seize" on their nuts before installing? I think not. We all know this works when your changing a flat on the side of the Interstate at 3 in the morning while it's raining cats and possums.

Anti-Seize causes no loss of the torque applied to your nuts that I'm aware of. Just time consuming, sometimes messy and your friends may comment on your attention to detail.

I agree with this but I rarely use anti seize, its actually too slippery and not recommended for torque ratings with most bolted applications. Probably not such an issue with hand tighten. I like an oily penetrant type spray for assembly work, Kroil is what we usually use but I am going to look for something else. Napa penetrating oil was good at about a third the price. Any kind of lubricant works, even the dreaded WD40, just got to keep them from seizing during installation. I agree people think you are nuts but we keep our stuff a long time and do a lot of service, we never have seized bolt problems once we work on something. All new bolts, almost any bolt here gets sprayed. Dumb azzez at the tire shops rip on the dry nuts with air guns and ruin a lot of stuff. I service a truck a while back that had a stud problem, glad we took a look at it as it would have made field changing a tire impossible without a service truck. John Deere tech has a good manual on bolts and fasteners for the mechanic.

[Sberry]

I run lug nuts with impacts but I have a method that I follow. Lube, run them up slow and use a turn of the nut method and I can get them pretty close. When you are using guns the never seize is so slippery that its easy to over tighten and stretch bolts. I believe most torque specs are rated for 10W oil or lighter.

[boilerman]

when i have tires changed out ...i tell them that they are to torque all lugs to factory specs. ....and i watch to make sure they do it ....you can get a set of ???? torque extensions ????(for lack of correct name ) that will not let you over tighten lugs with air impacts.

[Roundrocktom]

The torque readings are DRY recommendations.

I do put some antiseize on the thread, but have discovered to have the same clamping force my torque readings were about 20% lower. I.e. 60 ft lbs recommended, 45 is fine with antiseize. Never stripped a bolt, nor lost a lug nut.

When I picked up the ol' Datsun DD (Daily Driver) a rear nut was stuck good. Sigh. Since it was spinning around, clamped with vise grips and just drilled out the stud so the nut popped off. New stud and nut from Pep Boys and good to go. Just glad it didn't get a flat on the way home!