Tool Haul pic

[GWIZ]

Ridgid Registration

There is a time window that you must register within to qualify for the Lifetime service agreement LSA... I did wait for a while just in case I decided to return the tools to HD...... Do not miss that time window!

you will need a number off the box so they know what package deal you purchased, the number is only on the box.
you can up load a picture of your receipt if you want..so make a copy, I did up load a picture of my receipt at a later time.
they said they may request a picture if they can not verify your purchase.

they ask you where you purchased the item, Home depot or other
you choose HD and they will also ask for a 25 or so digit number off the HD receipt.

And
Serial numbers and model numbers of each item.



I'm under the impression there is two Ridgid sites.
Ridgid red .... as in Ridgid pipe wrench Red.
Ridgid orange ... has a License from Ridgid red for the orange tools.
If you get on the wrong site you will not find the registration for the lifetime service agreement (LSA).

once you find the LSA tab and click on it .... if you get stuck in a end less loop like I did.
ends up you are likely using a browser that they do not like or is not updated. one time it worked with my firefox the next time I had to use Chrome.


They say they will email you confirming your LSA, they are not going to email you, looks like they added a status on the registration page, LSA pending or a LSA icon.
I suggest you check your status in a week.

[slip knot]

I've bought several rigid kits. The kit batteries are warranted the 2 pack of 4AH batteries I bought by themselves is not warranted. I dont know why but thats the way it was. Also, when you get a new tool back under warranty it must be registered too. even the batteries have to be registered again.

[toprecycler]

Originally Posted by slip knot

I've bought several rigid kits. The kit batteries are warranted the 2 pack of 4AH batteries I bought by themselves is not warranted. I dont know why but thats the way it was. Also, when you get a new tool back under warranty it must be registered too. even the batteries have to be registered again.

This is the type of information I am glad to know. I just started looking yesterday at different battery adapters available, and am considering going this route. I just need to decide on what main battery to buy and invest in.

It’s looking like DEWALT or Milwaukee lithium battery’s have the most adaptors available to the other brands. I was starting to think about looking at rigid because of the Warranty, but if individual batteries are not warranted, then I will take that into account for my decision.

One other question I have if anyone knows. I noticed when using the rigid drill I have, the drill will just stop working when the battery dies. If I wait a minute or so, it will have like one more bit of life left in it. It’s like a switch is cut off. I assume it does this to keep the battery from being discharged so far as to ruin it.

My question is, is the battery cutting off the power, or is this switching in the tool? I just wonder how bad it will be for the new lithium battery’s long term to be used on older different brand of tools that are not “smart” and might allow the battery to be drained right down to nothing.

Just wondering about this, if anyone knows.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Big_Eddy]

Batteries and chargers bought individually are now covered if registered. They did not use to be.
I’m ridgid only. Cant recall how many tools I have now, but everything in that picture except the ratchet driver, and then some. I have had several items repaired or replaced under their LSA over the years. Unfortunately the two local shops that used to be part of the program both stopped, so now I need to go farther. I have a 7” grinder that needs to go in.

As noted, check your registration status a few weeks after you submit. If you did everything right including uploading a picture of the receipt and it still doesn’t show in place, a quick call to their 1-800 number will fix it. I’ve had to do that a couple of times and they take care of you while on the call.

The 4 1/2” grinders work well, but are battery hogs. If you do get one, get the trigger switch one, not the thumb lock. It has more oomph and does not overheat and shut down as often. I use them for quick jobs but go back to corded for long work.

[Scratch]

Originally Posted by slip knot

I've bought several rigid kits. The kit batteries are warranted the 2 pack of 4AH batteries I bought by themselves is not warranted. I dont know why but thats the way it was. Also, when you get a new tool back under warranty it must be registered too. even the batteries have to be registered again.

I also bought the 2 pack of 4.0ah batteries, they are covered. You just need to use the model number on the package, not the batteries. Once you do, it will allow you to enter in two serial numbers for each battery.
Easy peasy.

[slip knot]

Originally Posted by Scratch

I also bought the 2 pack of 4.0ah batteries, they are covered. You just need to use the model number on the package, not the batteries. Once you do, it will allow you to enter in two serial numbers for each battery.
Easy peasy.

Interesting! I will have to try that next time.

[GWIZ]

I purchased the Regid set after Harbor Freight switched their $24 3/8-drill/flashlight kit to a 1.3amp battery.
as far as I'm concerned don't buy any drill kits with less than a 2 amp battery. and keep checking the packaging for a bait and switch of battery sizes before you buy.

This Ridgid starter kit I purchased 11/2021, mainly because of the LSA, Ridgid implies it is a brushed set.
1/2" drill high/low gear. Model R86001, 525 in./lbs
1/4" driver
two 2A battery's and charger.

The 1/2" drill works good.

but the 1/4" driver, well it has too much power for anything below a #10 screw you better be careful or you will strip the threads out of the hole.
according to the Ridgid site the driver has 1,850 in./lbs that comes out to 154 foot lbs. what i have noticed it has a good impact hit seems its less likely to strip the Philips bit than the drill.
I reserve the 1/4" driver for large screws and it works well with a 3/8" socket adapter for nuts and bolts more for disassembly.

Again this is the Brushed model driver with variable trigger you have to be easy on the trigger for small screws.
Ridgid has a different model 1/4" driver with an added 3 speed selector switch which I assume rectifies the issue with too much power... you may want to compare torque specs.

Being I don't like switching from drill bit to Philips bit in the same tool, I went on the ebay hunt for a 3 speed driver, surprise the same brushed 1/2" drill and the 1/4" driver are averaging $35 each on ebay in good condition. at those prices it would be better to buy the tools from ebay than sending them in to be fixed with the exception of the battery's.

picture 2)
did not get a 3 speed driver but did get the 1/2" brushless sub-compact drill for $20.60, S/H $8.95, Tax$2.06 = $31.61 total. ebay. best I can tell it is new (tool only no battery's)
Model R8701 400 in./lbs

there is another model that looks the same R87012 that list torque as 500in/lbs you may want to consider to the R8701.

Picture 3)
To help preserve the serial numbers on the bottom side of the battery's I stuck some 2" clear packing tape over the Ridgid labels.

[GWIZ]

Reciprocating saw
Model R8642

What people don't realize when sawing metals mainly steel you should not floor the accelerator all you do is spin your wheels, burn rubber and not get anywhere.

Had to saw off some galvanized drain pipes under the house handed the saw to someone that was already under the house and all he did was burn up some blades, break a few, cut about 3/4 through one pipe and ran down the battery's.
next day I go under the house to finish cut the pipes, I don't remember if I used up one battery or two but I was able to saw through two 2" galvanized pipes without too much trouble it may have taken me 30 min for the two, I don't remember I was concentrating on how well the saw was cutting.

Once I finished the last cut I triggered the saw once more and it had shut down I felt the battery and it was "HOT, after that I noticed the battery's had lost some capacity they have to be charge more often.
that was the 2amp battery's I purchased with my drill driver set.

The saw has a variable trigger the trick was to hold it in between 25-30% to cut steel anything faster you are just spinning your wheels burning blades.
at the slower speed you can feel the saw moving through the cut, if you cant feel the saw moving through the cut then you are doing something wrong.

With a coarse blade it zips through 4x4's.
2)have no idea what the Orbital mode is for but the manual states do not use Orbital for metal


I picked up the saw for a good price at a swap-meet.
its likely an older Brushed model.
its smooth and well balanced.
3) the twist lock blade release works well, no hand tools required to change blades.

the only draw back it is heavy, but definitely a good tool.

Its likely a natural tendency to fully squeeze the trigger, a good up grade that Ridgid should add is a hi/low rpm switch, or for the stupid people a "Blade saver mode".

[chumly2071]

Pic looks like my recent foray into Ryobi stuff.
I wanted a right angle die grinder, and bought batteries with the Home Depot Ryobi days deal.

Found directtoolsoutlet.com. They seem to often have 40%-55% off sales, and carry discounted fatory blems and reconditioned stuff for Ryobi, Rigid, and Homelite. Have ordered too much, and been pleased with their service.

I've gotten some crazy cheap deals. and am pleasantly surprised by the quality.
sign up for their mailing list, and be prepared to jump when a high discount sale goes live.

ETA:
Have only bought with the various recent sales events. Couple examples were 1/2" 18v hammer drill and a 5-1/2" circular saw (with carbide blade) for $25 each. Flat rate shipping for $15.

[toprecycler]

Originally Posted by toprecycler

This is the type of information I am glad to know. I just started looking yesterday at different battery adapters available, and am considering going this route. I just need to decide on what main battery to buy and invest in.

It’s looking like DEWALT or Milwaukee lithium battery’s have the most adaptors available to the other brands. I was starting to think about looking at rigid because of the Warranty, but if individual batteries are not warranted, then I will take that into account for my decision.

One other question I have if anyone knows. I noticed when using the rigid drill I have, the drill will just stop working when the battery dies. If I wait a minute or so, it will have like one more bit of life left in it. It’s like a switch is cut off. I assume it does this to keep the battery from being discharged so far as to ruin it.

My question is, is the battery cutting off the power, or is this switching in the tool? I just wonder how bad it will be for the new lithium battery’s long term to be used on older different brand of tools that are not “smart” and might allow the battery to be drained right down to nothing.

Just wondering about this, if anyone knows.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, I pulled the trigger on some Ridgid batteries. Home Depot had a special on a 2 pack , 4AH batteries for $99. I also bought a 2pack with a 6 place charger for $179. Then I ordered another 2 pack. So now I have 6 new batteries.

There are not as many adapters available, but I did order a few. I got one for ryobi tools, which does work.

I ordered two for DEWALT XRP batteries. I ordered one, then couple days later ordered another one from a different seller on EBAY, forgetting I had already ordered one. The first one came in, and it fit the battery, but would not seat all the way into the tool to work.

I contacted the seller, and he offered to refund $10, and I could keep it to use later. I responded, how could I use it if it does not fit?

So after a back and forth, they are sending me a different adapter for Milwaukee tools. I have some older Milwaukee tools, but no batteries, so I am hoping they might work.

But after they said they will replace it, and didn’t say anything about returning it because shipping is expensive, I did modify the adapter so it does fit now. I just had to dremel a bit of plastic out. I just didn’t think I should have to do that right out of the box.

Well, the other DEWALT adapter showed up yesterday in the mailbox. Exactly the same one as the first. So I have a response back into the seller to see what he says.

I have another adapter on order for porta-Cable tools. Hopefully that will work when it comes in. I have a grinder, 1/2” impact, and drill in those formats.

But, I probably will start making my own 3-prints of battery adapter. I just did not want to take the time to do it now. But having a couple, I can see how the make them, and will reverse engineer it. I’m thinking that I will use the old dead battery cases and just make the bottom for the ridgid battery, and put them together. At least if I find the old batteries. I think I have some old 9.6 volt tools. They Will really scream a bit on 18volts for a bit til they burn up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk