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  #1  
Old 06-11-2014, 04:53 AM
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GWIZ GWIZ is offline
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Default Fly-Cutting a radius.

Fly-Cutting a radius.

Setting the radius of a fly-cutter or boring head.

You will have to sharpen the tool bit clearances for boring down and to clear the radius back side of the tool.

1) Locate the center of your spindle with the edge of the part. in this case with an edge finder, zero the dial or DRO.
Move the table from the edge of the part equivalent to the radius you want to cut, in this case the Y axis.

2, 3) Bring the quill down and slide the tool bit so it just makes contact with the part.
rotate the cutter back in forth (sweep) to just find the contact center line (high spot).
tighten the tool bit set screws and you should have the diameter set....


You can do the same with a boring head, But if using the horizontal hole with a standard bar you will have to reverse the spindle.
some boring heads screw onto a shank like mine and will un-screw if run in reverse.

Note: so I can bore down and through I positioned the part outside the vise and support the one end with a jack.

4) BTW, you want to make sure you clear the vise and clamps so sweep the tool around and check.

* you can also set fly-cutter radius on a surface plate using a V-block and height gauge.
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Old 06-11-2014, 04:53 AM
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5, 6, 7, 8) Back off the Y axis and take downward cuts.
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Old 06-11-2014, 01:31 PM
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ummm G, did you have any particular project in mind here?
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Old 06-11-2014, 02:02 PM
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Someone needed a clamp that clamped around a bar, in this case I was able to match the radius well within 0.005

Seeing that your project for Mildred involves the same thing I thought the thread may give you some ideas if you decide to make a half clamp for the top of the post..
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Old 06-11-2014, 02:39 PM
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umm hmmm,
I'm still working on the visualization process, more to do with how best to use the limited size of the material I have to work with.

I have a pretty clear idea of how I want the adjustable alignment features to operate. This is going to be considerably different from Mark's design though he certainly inspired the effort.
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Old 06-11-2014, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cutter View Post
the limited size of the material I have to work with.

And what is it that you need?
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Old 06-11-2014, 10:25 PM
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I think I've got it, dub. Already roughed the half circle out of this piece.
I'll bolt the other end on it after I finish this part.
That will give me the chance to adjust the length as I go along & that means I won't have to be as precise as otherwise - always a good thing when I'm building something.

Interesting part (to me) is this piece is part of a little bundle of aluminum scrap I bought from Jarvis nearly 20 years ago & it all came from TI.
Had it ever since & almost forgot about it.
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  #8  
Old 06-12-2014, 12:09 AM
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Okie doke. I have plenty of 1/2" and 1/4" bar in a 2" width. They stack really well for thicker pieces when needed.
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  #9  
Old 06-14-2014, 02:05 AM
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Well G, it turns out I don't have any flycutter cutters large enough or long enough to cut 2.25" radius.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GWIZ View Post

You can do the same with a boring head, But if using the horizontal hole with a standard bar you will have to reverse the spindle.
some boring heads screw onto a shank like mine and will un-screw if run in reverse.
But I do have a one-piece boring head, the same one I got for Christmas in 2011 ( I think ) so it was no problem to spin Mildred backwards.
I made sure of that when I was asked for suggestions.

I was worried that Mildred might freak out because this was the first time she had ever been asked to dance that way but she just shrugged it off & went about her business as usual.
Fearless as always.

1. But I am still relieved and surprised every time this works.
I set my diameter & scraped the path, then backed the boring bar back halfway for the rough cut then finished it in three more light passes before I removed the piece from the vise to check for fit.

2. Perfect! I was surprised and again, very relieved.
More accurately, I was amazed. I haven't done this kind of work often enough to have any reason to expect better than "close enough"; this is very good.
It requires just little bit of force to slip onto the column and grips tight enough to stay in place.

I will start a new thread by & by for this part of Mildred's continuing education & self-improvement rather than continuing to post my usual tedious recital here.
But I wanted to give you credit for the suggestion & let you know that it worked very well.
Thanks.
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For I am still as God created me."
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  #10  
Old 06-14-2014, 10:00 PM
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Cutter I've never had a boring head unscrew but if your worried about it when using the horiz. hole put the bar in upside down and bore from the bottom up, can't unscrew.
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