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Old 05-28-2011, 03:19 PM
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Default Gunsmiths, Opinions Please

The below photo shows two 1911 style receivers. The one on the right is mine a series 70 Colt Govt. The one on the left is a Caspian 1911 that belongs to a good friend. He bought it with a Marvel .22 conversion fitted. That part was fine but he decided to buy a slide, barrel and parts to also shoot .45. I end up with the pistol to fix as it doesn't feed? DUUH, Look at the milled cut in the aftermarket frame where the semi wad cutter would take it's ride up into the barrel. Note: this cut is not necessary for the conversion kit? I want to make this happen and need a suggestion as to how to fill in the missing material, without warping the frame rails.
1. Do I weld in a chunk of S.S. by Tig?
2. Do I silver braze the same chunk in?
3. Or what I prefer is to just Tig in filler till I have enough to get the contour?

All opinions welcome and I wish all a great weekend, Thanks much
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Old 05-28-2011, 06:34 PM
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Machine a block for a tight fit.

Tig in with a little filler and minimal heat.

Machine and file to fit and function.

Just my 2 cents.
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Old 05-28-2011, 07:04 PM
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I'd do what STW said except I would solder it to keep the potential heat warpind under control.
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Old 05-28-2011, 07:36 PM
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Ok I will be out on my own with this one I guess.

I would be fearful any high heat application would harm the heat treating or or warp the rails.
I would machine a filler block .001-002 over. Put a counterbore in the block for say a 10-32 SHCS. Throw the frame in an oven at 300f for 30 mins and quickly place the cold block in the hot frame and let her shrink. When cool transfer punch then drill and tap the hole. Tighten screw, stake and shape ramp.
Alternativly if asthetics could be sacrificed pin the block straight through the frame.
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Old 05-28-2011, 07:42 PM
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Brazing with silver solder on the new part would not have enough heat to cause any warping. That is how they attach double barrel shotgun bores together, as well as other parts. Heat is broadly applied instead of localized high heat from welding.
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Old 06-01-2011, 05:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milomilo View Post
Brazing with silver solder on the new part would not have enough heat to cause any warping. That is how they attach double barrel shotgun bores together, as well as other parts. Heat is broadly applied instead of localized high heat from welding.
I'm with Milomilo. I believe some double barrels are soldered using just conventional solder (I guess because even silver solder requires too high a temperature).
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Old 06-01-2011, 07:41 AM
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I would see if it will take the barrel with built in feed ramp before dicking up that receiver. The area in the pic has to be machined to accept it. Might be close now.

My friend sent me info on it a year or so ago but I deleted it. He's into .45's big time and I can get more info if you are interested.
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Old 06-01-2011, 08:05 AM
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That frame is for a ramped barrel, as Moe says.

http://38super.net/Pages/supported.html
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Old 06-01-2011, 09:18 AM
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Here's one site to show you what I was talking about..you can find them cheaper. Your's as Pop pointed out, looks like the gunsmith work has been done. Save you about $300..


http://www.fusionfirearms.com/servlet/Detail?no=146


Didn't see your pics Pop.. They show it better ...
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Last edited by moe1942; 06-01-2011 at 09:24 AM.
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Old 06-01-2011, 09:34 AM
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There are two styles of cuts, Clark/PARA (top) and Wilson/Nolan (bottom):
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