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Old 11-09-2010, 11:45 PM
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milomilo milomilo is offline
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Default Every one has one

What is your opinions on the magnetic grounds for welders? I have one and I am not too pleased with it. It gets hot during use, as if it is not making a good electrical ground and if you drop it on the ground it picks up crap and you have to clean it out before you can use it again. It also isn't too good for sticking to round surfaces.

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Old 11-10-2010, 12:38 AM
AnotherDano AnotherDano is offline
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I have thought about getting one for the plasma cutting table but would probably forget it was there and cut it apart.

For the small amount of welding I do, clamping the ground to the little welding table seems to work just fine. It works even better when the piece is clamped down to the table tightly.
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Old 11-10-2010, 06:13 AM
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Their just like left nostril inhalers. You make it and sell it, someone will buy it.

I've always figured if I have a clamp with a big assed spring and gnarly teeth to bite into and clamp onto steel and I have to again wiggle it to make a decent ground, a magnet is all fluff and bunnies.
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Old 11-10-2010, 09:33 AM
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I have one and it has been well used, Keep it in a zip lock back when not in use.

Works great if you give it fresh metal to clamp on..A bit more touchy cause they don't have teeth..
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Old 11-10-2010, 11:28 AM
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I had one I used at work for a while.
The spring behind the magnet somehow lost its tension, so that the magnet no longer protruded enough to latch on the work piece reliably. I also found it to be a pain when trying to weld on anything that wasn't flat, and it picked up a lot of crap.
I eventually got P.O'd enough to pitch it in the scrap bin, and went back to using a regular clamp.
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Old 11-10-2010, 12:09 PM
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Can't stand them. They won't stay grounded, and then when the spring melts out of it, it gets worse.

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Old 11-10-2010, 11:21 PM
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TriHonu TriHonu is offline
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I have one and use it occasionally. The biggest problem I had was in my setup. I attached a piece of strap metal to the stud so I could grab it with the ground clamp.

The weight of the ground clamp was twisting the stud enough to keep it from maintaining a good connection.

So I added a Lenco connector to the end of my ground cables and set up my ground clamps and magnet with short whips of cable with Lenco connectors on them.

Less weight seems to keep the stud in contact. As I type this, I realize I should have also welded a bushing to the magnet so the stud has to stay at 90 degrees.

I can also attach any ground clamp to any welder and easily add additional cable lengths to the leads.

And while on the topic of grounds, after I read the Grounding Tip on I took the time to check all my cables and ground clamps. I removed each cable cleaned the cable socket reattached the cables and cleaned all the slag from the jaws on the clamps. It did smooth out the arc.
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Old 11-13-2010, 12:32 AM
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I had one that I couldn't stand... it seemed like it was moving around enough that I'd end up with messed up spots near where it was making contact from the ground arching, and messed up weld performance. I don't even know what happened with it.

As far as heat goes, I've noticed the clamp on even my little 110 welder gets warm after a couple of minutes use.
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Old 11-13-2010, 06:42 AM
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I guess I'm the exception. I don't have one, and never thought of buying one.
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Old 11-13-2010, 09:42 AM
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Lu47Dan Lu47Dan is offline
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I had thought of buying one a time or two, but never did.
I have a heavy clamp type ground that I have set up for both of my welding machines. I need to buy a new one for my small mig welder and a new one for my plasma cutter also, these two will be directly attached to the ground cables instead of being on a twist lock connector like the one for my big welders.
For round stuff such as pipe I made what I call a pipeliners ground. This device is made from 1/4" X 1" flat stock. It is has two major pieces, the grounding tongue and the legs.
The grounding bar is about 10" long with a point ground on one end and then bent to a 90 degree angle.
The other end has is bent the opposite way at about 22 degrees after drilling a 1/2 hole in it.
The leg unit are about 8" long and is bent to about 22 degrees (each side) after welding it to the tongue.
After the legs have been bent I covered them with some heat shrink tubing to prevent them from arcing and marring the surface of the pipe.
Bolt the tongue to a piece of welding lead and add your favorite quick connector.
Using this is as simple as cleaning a spot up for your initial ground spot and them placing the point on the spot and wrapping a real bungee cord around the tongue to hold the point tightly to the pipe or bar stock being welded. Out on the pipe line this is place on a previous weld to prevent damage to the pipe but for your home shop it can be place anywhere you have the room for it. If the bungee cord is tight enough then the ground cable will wrap around the pipe as you turn the pipe.
You can add heat shrink tubing to the tongue also but I did not as I hook the bungee cord hooks to each other instead of over the tongue to prevent the hooks from carrying the welding current.
The grounding point should start out with a flat spot on it not a sharp point. I added some bronze to mine after some use, but it is not necessary .
I would add a couple of pictures but a friends brother want it more then I did and I sold it to him for a good profit, I have to build a new one pretty soon as I have a couple of pipe projects to do here.
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