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  #71  
Old 02-12-2019, 05:22 PM
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greywynd greywynd is offline
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The cylinders that we used for a lot of the large molds with threaded ends, generally had a ‘tee’ nut type of end. Either square or round, depending on where they were being used and how we had to take it apart for maintenance.

The square ones were just like a tee nut for a mill, the round ones basically had a flange all the way around.


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  #72  
Old 02-12-2019, 06:21 PM
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Something like this would work, machine a piece to weld to the nut making sure it is bottomed out, no thread is gonna take 75 ton unless it is. drawing is to scale.
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  #73  
Old 02-17-2019, 09:55 AM
Spencer Spencer is online now
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Originally Posted by digr View Post
Something like this would work, machine a piece to weld to the nut making sure it is bottomed out, no thread is gonna take 75 ton unless it is. drawing is to scale.
Digr, I may have said it before, but I really admire not only your ability to whip up those great looking drawings so quickly, but also your willingness to do so in order to help the rest of us visualize your ideas. I Googled SmartDraw, and the most relevant result looks like it is a flowchart program. If you could provide a direct link to the program you are using, I'd appreciate it, as I'd like to research that a bit. The flowchart program I found requires a monthly subscription for use. I try to stay away from that, as I don't have a problem purchasing software outright, I just don't like to rent it.

I'm still using AutoCAD LT 2009 on my personal laptop simply because Autodesk moved to subscription based offerings. LT 2009 does not officially work with Windows 7, 8, or 10, but I've managed to find a work-around to allow me to continue to use it.

Back on topic, I agree with you that the bottom shaft should be 1.5" in diameter, but instead of having that 1.5" shaft fixed to the 4" section in your drawing, which is in turn fixed to the ram nut, I'd like it to be able to free-float. That way, even if for some reason the ram nut is not all the way tight and the 1.5" shaft was not in perfect contact with the bottom of the ram, as soon as any pressure was applied to the 1.5" shaft it would be able to free-float up to make contact with the ram, regardless of the position of the ram nut.

I was hoping to get to Fastenal before they closed on Friday, but I had a bid due by 5 PM and they closed at 4. Since I really wanted to make some progress on this today, I shopped around a few different farm stores yesterday to see what parts I may be able to repurpose.


I think I found an almost perfect part to use for the 1.5" shaft on clearance at TSC. The shaft of this Woods Blade Bolt Kit pin I found is exactly 1.5" in diameter but the head is 2.5" and for the design I'm going to try I'll need that turned down to 2".

If I can't get the lathe in the corner of my barn working or figure out how to use it to turn down a half inch off the round head of that blade bolt (areas drawn in red in the attached drawing) I'll like just have a go at it with my 4" grinder.
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  #74  
Old 02-17-2019, 10:05 AM
Spencer Spencer is online now
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Here is what I'm currently thinking.

The modified Woods bolt is shown in green in the attached image. The ram nut is obviously shown in red and I am showing a washer in light blue (cyan).

I will use some unknown material to weld the cyan washer to the bottom of the red ram nut. The thickness of the head of the green bolt is 0.667", but because I want that bolt to be able to free-float I don't need the material I weld between the washer and the nut to be too exact.

I want the green bolt to be able to be completely removed from the welded up nut and washer assembly, which is why I'm turning the head of the bolt down a little smaller than the inside diameter of the nut.

Hopefully I'll have an update by tonight on my progress, but I'll check this thread a time or two throughout the day, so anyone is free to jump in and offer any course correction suggestions.
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  #75  
Old 02-17-2019, 02:04 PM
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Thank's Smart draw is a flow chart program and is only a 2 d program and I use it to draw shapes and put them together to form the idea I have. I have made symbols for common shapes as threads, bolts, steel shapes, switches, pipe fittings and on and on, so all I have to do is drag them into the drawings, the drawing of the grinder will show what I mean. I seldom draw to scale but I can without a problem, but most of the time it is not needed. There are other programs out there that are much better than Smart draw and I have tried them but I always fall back to smart draw because it is faster for me.
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  #76  
Old 02-17-2019, 02:55 PM
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That will work, drawing not to scale
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Last edited by digr; 02-17-2019 at 03:29 PM.
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  #77  
Old 02-24-2019, 12:43 AM
Lantraxco Lantraxco is offline
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Not to be rude, but 8 pages of intense over thinking?

https://www.spxflow.com/en/power-tea...hing-adapters/

It is in fact 2-1/4"-12 and seems to be readily available in a couple different shapes.

https://www.toolsource.com/shop-pres...-p-109370.html

https://www.toolsource.com/shop-pres...ri0ctnggg8odu7

Hope that helps.

Last edited by Lantraxco; 02-24-2019 at 12:51 AM.
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  #78  
Old 02-24-2019, 12:50 AM
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LKeithR LKeithR is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lantraxco View Post
...Not to be rude, but 8 pages of intense over thinking?
Aww newbie, we do a lot of that around here. Helps to clear the brain for important stuff...
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  #79  
Old 03-02-2019, 09:55 PM
Spencer Spencer is online now
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...Hopefully I'll have an update by tonight on my progress, but I'll check this thread a time or two throughout the day, so anyone is free to jump in and offer any course correction suggestions.
Just as promised, here is the update (and only two weeks late). I got sidetracked the last two weekends, but I made the effort to make some progress today.

I did actually get this first part turned down to the dimensions I wanted it back on February 21st, but that was all the farther I got until today.
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  #80  
Old 03-02-2019, 10:02 PM
Spencer Spencer is online now
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This next part took quite a while. This lathe is a bit underpowered and it doesn't help that I have basically no idea what I'm doing.

The drilling went fairly well. The largest bit I had on hand was 1", so I started out with a center drill, then used two different sized bits before I stepped up to the 1" bit.
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