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Old 08-10-2013, 06:49 PM
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Default "Prettiest" stick weld beads

I have been asked to build some fitness equipment for a family member. He wants a weight sled and farmers walk bars.

Since I plan to build more of this type stuff, and sell it hopefully, I would like to make the beads as presentable as they are strong.

The equipment will be made from 1/4", 3/8" steel and some Sch 40 pipe.

What rod number, and rod diameter, would you use to make strong welds with bias towards "pretty"?

I was thinking I would try the Lincoln Red Baron 308L stainless rods I have. I have about 10lb of those but I think they are 1/8" rods. Last time I used them the welds were just beautiful and ran so smooth.
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Old 08-10-2013, 07:01 PM
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6013

1. does not need to be kept in an oven.
2. Lay a nice bead, easy to work with.
3. 60 kpsi tensile will be stronger than the parent metal.


I would not recommend SS rod as you might get chromium carbide
precipitation and then cracking when welding steel with stainless
rod.
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Old 08-10-2013, 07:04 PM
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Well I got tons of 6013 so that will work. Would you recommend using the 3/32" or the 1/8" rod size?
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Old 08-10-2013, 08:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smawgmaw View Post
I would try the 3/32 first. I have a feeling it would be the easiest to work with the thickness of materials you are going to be working with. But, if you have some "scrap samples" that you could try, maybe experiment with both the 3/32 and 1/8 to see which works best for you.
Well, I will be welding the 1/4" to the 3/8" plate. I may also use all 1/4" steel as well. I am not sure I need 3/8" thick plate for the sled skid.

I want this to be as light and maneuverable for the user as is possible with good strength and durability.

I am not sure of the durability of 1/4" thick plate when it is dragged along the ground carrying 100 or more pounds of weight? I would think it would last for years but I don't know that.

I could also make the sled skids out of pipe rails instead of flat plate but it offers less resistance and that is what the fitness guys want . . . resistance. Since I have a JD3 bender I could curl the tips of the skid pipes up like areal sled skid.
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Old 08-10-2013, 08:56 PM
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I am a big fan of 7018. Stronger than 6013, not that you need that. It lays down very smooth.
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Old 08-10-2013, 08:57 PM
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A hammer will bend that flat plate up to look like a ski. You might look like "the hulk" after your done, but I have shaped lots of steel with nothing but a hammer.
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Old 08-10-2013, 09:01 PM
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I've been playing with 7014 on used material. Running DC- and seems to work well. I think I like it better than 7018, myself.
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Old 08-10-2013, 09:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shopmonkey View Post
I've been playing with 7014 on used material. Running DC- and seems to work well. I think I like it better than 7018, myself.
I'm not a pro welder by any means, but I agree that 7014 is an all around easy to use rod and it lays out nice...at least for me when I'm welding on top.

When I have to weld upside down, I can butcher a weld with the worst of them.
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Old 08-10-2013, 10:09 PM
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Since I have all the popular rods I am just gonna try a few on some scrap and see what I weld with the best and what looks and works best.

I will try the 6013 and 7018 for sure. I have heard that 7014 is better than 6013 for structural purposes and I do like the way it runs.

I like 7018 but I have to get over the sticking part and practice up on restarts.

I also have 6010 and 6011 but I am not a fan of either one. I have not tried 6011 on AC yet. I ran it DC.

6010 looked good but was a bitch to run for me.
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Old 08-10-2013, 10:58 PM
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Tally keep a grinder handy and before you relight a 7018 just touch it to the grinder for a second and remove the layer of flux that has formed over the end of the electrode.

Or you can remove the rod from the stinger and tap it several times on end like packing cigarettes and that with break up the flux as well.

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