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  #11  
Old 08-05-2013, 05:50 PM
o7oBaseMetal o7oBaseMetal is offline
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The second and third tailoff videos, you are consistently flicking your arc off at the end leaving your hot puddle vulnerable to oxidation by removing shielding gas for an instant while your puddle is still molten. I know it is frustrating but it can be done. Your first video is the closest to correct out of the first three but it is still way too rushed.
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  #12  
Old 08-05-2013, 11:46 PM
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Tally ZJ Tally ZJ is offline
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Originally Posted by o7oBaseMetal View Post
I watched the first video where you try tailing off with no pedal. Obviously it is tough to see your [puddle] but i can say without a doubt that you are doing it way too fast.
I have no pedal that is why you can't see it

I know you meant puddle though

It is impossible to see my puddle and my arc length in those videos. It was a biotch trying to get the camera set to get the bad quality I did get. First time I have ever tried to record welding.

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Originally Posted by o7oBaseMetal View Post
You need to make the tail off in little tiny steps but move faster than you weld at. The tail off should still have a step pattern to it and not just look like a smear on the weld. Tailing off is harder than putting down a weld in my opinion, that is until you learn to do it.
That is what I needed to know! Thank you! I think I can figure this out without too much more issues. Beginning to understand it a bit more.

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Personally, since you're not actually welding anything that anyone will ever see anyways, I would learn to master the forward tail off and THEN work on doing it in reverse. Forward is much easier.
Can you explain the forward tail off as detailed as you just did the reverse tail off? What do you travel onto if you are ending the weld at a joint or end of the metal piece? I guess I can understand if the bead is ending somewhere where there is a lot more metal length.

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Originally Posted by o7oBaseMetal View Post
The second and third tail off videos, you are consistently flicking your arc off at the end leaving your hot puddle vulnerable to oxidation by removing shielding gas for an instant while your puddle is still molten. I know it is frustrating but it can be done. Your first video is the closest to correct out of the first three but it is still way too rushed.
Its not so frustrating to do as it was to understand what I needed to do and how. I will give your advice a go in the next few days and see if it makes a difference for me. I think I know exactly what to do now.
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  #13  
Old 08-06-2013, 09:16 PM
o7oBaseMetal o7oBaseMetal is offline
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Forward tail off is exactly the same as reverse except that you travel in the same direction as you welded. It is easier to taper down because the base metal is cooler where you haven't already laid a bead. It is great where you will tie in and continue the bead further ( like if you need another stick of wire and need to stop) or if you are welding something like pipe where the weld is continuous.
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  #14  
Old 08-06-2013, 10:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o7oBaseMetal View Post
Forward tail off is exactly the same as reverse except that you travel in the same direction as you welded. It is easier to taper down because the base metal is cooler where you haven't already laid a bead. It is great where you will tie in and continue the bead further ( like if you need another stick of wire and need to stop) or if you are welding something like pipe where the weld is continuous.
I tried both methods again tonight. Got better results than before and will continue to work on this.

Another video of the reverse tail off.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tjs8QHHoSQA




Attached are pics of the results of these attempts at the reverse tail off method. Since I did this reverse method slower and then slowly increased backward travel I get that extreme "smudge" look. I don't care for that. Am I still doing this wrong or is this just a result of that method that cannot be remedied?
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  #15  
Old 08-06-2013, 10:15 PM
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The forward travel "tail off" looks much better to me but I didn't get but a couple pics of those.


Will try that method a little more.
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Last edited by Tally ZJ; 08-06-2013 at 10:23 PM.
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  #16  
Old 08-06-2013, 11:41 PM
o7oBaseMetal o7oBaseMetal is offline
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You're getting better. Of course, it looks like these are on some kind of carbon or mild steel rather than stainless (which is my specialty) so the properties of the metal will be different. Personally, I think carbon steel flows much mire runny than stainless and I do find it harder to make as nice looking of a tail off but it should still look a little nicer with practice.

Last edited by o7oBaseMetal; 08-06-2013 at 11:56 PM.
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  #17  
Old 08-07-2013, 12:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o7oBaseMetal View Post
You're getting better. Of course, it looks like these are on some kind of carbon or mild steel rather than stainless (which is my specialty) so the properties of the metal will be different. Personally, I think carbon steel flows much more runny than stainless and I do find it harder to make as nice looking of a tail off but it should still look a little nicer with practice.
It is carbon steel with ER70S-2 filler. I am out of stainless work material to weld on.
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  #18  
Old 08-07-2013, 03:05 AM
o7oBaseMetal o7oBaseMetal is offline
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Ok. Just a thought but since all you're doing is running beads, you should be able to grind off the old welds and lay down new ones. It's not like the weld coupon is a critical product that can't come out a little bit warped.
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  #19  
Old 08-07-2013, 06:45 PM
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Ok. Just a thought but since all you're doing is running beads, you should be able to grind off the old welds and lay down new ones. It's not like the weld coupon is a critical product that can't come out a little bit warped.
I actually tried that with that huge block of stainless square rods I have but it was a lot of work and didn't seem to be working so well. Maybe my flap discs and grinder wheels are worn out.
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  #20  
Old 08-08-2013, 03:16 AM
o7oBaseMetal o7oBaseMetal is offline
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A 60 grit "tiger disc" will remove a bead of stainless pretty quick and easy on a 4 1/2" angle grinder. A tiger disc is just a flap disc.
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