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  #11  
Old 01-16-2010, 07:40 PM
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Since I am fairly "green" and lack experience, I will be taking my time.
A few things to mention on your upcoming work/learning experiences here with your new system. 1) Preparation is everything to a successful repair. 2) If you tire of cleaning, rest and clean it some more. 3) Don't forget that preparation is everything to a successful repair.

Some folk that try first time repairs like this usually think they can take a shortcut on cleaning and pre-prep setup, which usually makes it that much harder for someone else down the line to make it right. I have complete confidence in your ability to learn and do this right. Have fun and be sure and post some pics of your work while doing it. We can all learn something new here.

FWIW, this is one of those process's that has gotten a particular single-minded notoriety of being a 'one use' affair and it just ain't so. Probably and only because of it being somewhat of a lost art in it's mirad of uses as it's an older process.
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  #12  
Old 01-17-2010, 01:57 AM
Super 55 Super 55 is offline
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Default Prep

I have already de-rusted the manifolds by soaking in a solution of 1 part molasses and 4 parts water for two weeks. After the molasses soaking they got washed in hot water. They look new. I was going to sand blast the area around the cracks, and wash with de-wax/ de-grease. Then vee out the cracks and weld. I won't be welding for at least a couple of weeks. I am guessing that is how long it will take for the supplies to arrive. Any more tips on preping?
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  #13  
Old 01-17-2010, 03:06 AM
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Default powder facing

good to hear you are going to give it a go,As stated elswhere, preparation is everything with this process. when veeing out make sure you get all the metal that is effected by exhaust gasses (usualy on the surface around the crack) as this spits when priming. dont be tempted to put to much on in the prime coat which is a fine powdery coat that you spray over the area before it is heated past blue, then you heat till the powder finnish turns glassy and lays out over the ground area, this is when you move into build up mode, try not to concentrate too much heat in one area and keep flame moving back and foward along weld area as you can overheat and burn the powder. just spray on powder and use flame to lay out surface, that is all the heat you need to apply. Don't be tempted to try and move weld puddle around with flame as it will drop away or burn, just apply more powder where it is needed.
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  #14  
Old 01-17-2010, 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Super 55 View Post
I have already de-rusted the manifolds by soaking in a solution of 1 part molasses and 4 parts water for two weeks. After the molasses soaking they got washed in hot water. They look new. I was going to sand blast the area around the cracks, and wash with de-wax/ de-grease. Then vee out the cracks and weld. I won't be welding for at least a couple of weeks. I am guessing that is how long it will take for the supplies to arrive. Any more tips on preping?
I been around since Cutter chunked the punkin and also seen a blind motorcycle rider who was considered handicapped but I ain't never heard of the syrup and water thing. Please enlighten me so I don't finish up without this knowledge.

Second( I posted earlier). What happened to brazing?

Third, I forgot LW, what did you say the most important thing was?
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  #15  
Old 01-17-2010, 08:10 AM
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The only place I have seen this is on a lathe as a shaft build up tool.Can't wait to see pictures of a manifold.
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  #16  
Old 01-17-2010, 10:41 AM
Super 55 Super 55 is offline
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Default Here are pics

Here is a link to someone who has already done it.

http://1954advance-design.com/Web%20...eld/index.html
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  #17  
Old 01-17-2010, 06:45 PM
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Any more tips on preping?
Not to say that it is not done in the industry and surely I'm not saying that I won't be found to bead/sand blast a cast manifold or block type casting at times when necessary, what I am saying is that once you blast, you are in fact introducing more crap that you have to make sure you get every bit out in doing your prep'ing/cleaning just prior to fixing. It is what it is.
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  #18  
Old 01-17-2010, 06:50 PM
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Molasses and rust removal

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but I ain't never heard of the syrup and water thing. Please enlighten me so I don't finish up without this knowledge.
Oh my! O'Man, I won't consider starting my day at breakfast without at least one stack of pancakes, homemade molasses and a cracked exhaust manifold off a Super Six Hudson F Head engine. My day would just suck without it.
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  #19  
Old 01-17-2010, 11:51 PM
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Don't forget that grits is a great way to eat butter.
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  #20  
Old 01-18-2010, 12:03 AM
Super 55 Super 55 is offline
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[QUOTE=OLD MAN;332695]I been around since Cutter chunked the punkin and also seen a blind motorcycle rider who was considered handicapped but I ain't never heard of the syrup and water thing. Please enlighten me so I don't finish up without this knowledge.

Here is a link to the Stovebolt page where I was enlightened.
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/ru...t_molasses.htm
It really does work well. I have used the battery charger and soda derusting electroloysis which works good, but is line of sight, so doesn't get into all the nooks and crannies. The molasses does. Be sure to get it from the farm supply. It needs to be sulphated. Not the expensive stuff in your cupboard. I just picked some up today for the guys who teach auto shop classes at my school. It was $17 Canadian for about 5 gallons.

Also, it doesn't touch paint, so if the paint is well adhered to the metal it won't take that off. Also, it doesn't eat grease.
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