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  #31  
Old 10-10-2017, 07:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randydupree View Post
loggers make a huge mess,ruts and stumps and tree tops.
I would put goats or cows in there and let them clean the place up.
....Now if only someone would make a device to whack down leetle trees and such....might even put in on the front of a skid loader.....
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  #32  
Old 10-10-2017, 09:29 PM
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I've always thought you have a better chance of not having stuff grow back if you get it roots and all.

There really isn't a good solution to clearing land with only one machine.

Comes down to it I'll dig a pit and push crap in and burn. Then plant grass or a food plot on top.
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  #33  
Old 10-10-2017, 09:34 PM
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Looking for opinions on foundations.

With my shop slab...how thick? 5-6"?
What kind if reinforcement? Fiber or wire mesh?
Kind if considering running pex for radient heat.

For the house I'll probably go with a crawl space. Not a fan of slabs. Half basement would be nice but my property is fairly flat. Im thinking of a crawl space with 4' from ground to the bottom of floor joists.

Cement block or ICF?
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  #34  
Old 10-11-2017, 11:35 AM
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crawl spaces in the south require good ventilation.
I would insulate,then wire and rebar and pex for radiant heat,then concrete.
Polish the concrete and stain it.
Foam insulation under the slab is good.
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  #35  
Old 10-15-2017, 08:25 PM
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I've always thought you have a better chance of not having stuff grow back if you get it roots and all.

There really isn't a good solution to clearing land with only one machine.

Comes down to it I'll dig a pit and push crap in and burn. Then plant grass or a food plot on top.
I have found in clearing my land, I used to use the bucket on my skid steer,
I could rip up brush and small trees, taking roots and all.

Problem is, some of my land is pretty steep, and then the rain washes
the topsoil out of the area I just cleared to dirt.

I built the Thrash-A-Matic to clear by cutting. By leaving the roots,
I retain the soil. I have not seen the stuff growing back up.

I would suggest you do a little reading on the subject over at Heavyequipforums.com

As the thread explained, The old way in Australia was the root up and burn, now they mulch instead.
The poster explained why, how, and that they actually get land in production (grass
for beef pasturing) much faster.

Last edited by digger doug; 10-16-2017 at 06:10 AM.
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  #36  
Old 10-16-2017, 03:33 AM
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Couldnt agree more. Trees are good, clear what you need to make a yard but be very slow to clear any others until you know why you're doing it. I'm currently doing a lot of reading on agroforestry and unless you need a combine header running around or a big boom sprayer then keep as many trees as you can. steering around a tree is a small price to pay for the benefits they provide.
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  #37  
Old 10-16-2017, 07:14 AM
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Shade is a great thing.
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  #38  
Old 10-16-2017, 07:51 AM
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Tim,
Anytime your doing land clearing in Georgia, if your clearing more than an acre you probable will need a Land Disturbance Permit. General $80 per acre ($40 to the state and $40 to the local issue authority).

There is some exemptions, agri is one. The bigger cost is having to have the Plans developed and drawn up to get the permit. Best to contact your County and find out about the permit. It can become expensive quickly if the State comes down on you for illegal land disturbance.
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  #39  
Old 10-16-2017, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldRedFord View Post
Looking for opinions on foundations.

With my shop slab...how thick? 5-6"?
What kind if reinforcement? Fiber or wire mesh?
Kind if considering running pex for radient heat.

For the house I'll probably go with a crawl space. Not a fan of slabs. Half basement would be nice but my property is fairly flat. I'm thinking of a crawl space with 4' from ground to the bottom of floor joists.

Cement block or ICF?
Ideal would be 6" slab, but many people have 4" and happiness.

The shop slab should be reinforced with rebar, at least 1/2", spaced on a 2x2 ft grid. Unless you are planning to have lawnmowers only in there, the rebar will help support the weight of a truck or loader etc.
Put down mesh and tie your heat lines to it with ty wraps. Place broken concrete blocks on strategic positions to support the rebar off the mesh so the rebar is at least at the 30% mark up from the bottom.

ICF is something we looked at, and it has been used with some success.
BUT.
You lay rebar horizontally in the wall form as you lego it together, and there are many plastic bridging pieces that keep it from spreading, this makes pouring cement difficult, not impossible, but out of the comfort zone of most concrete companies. It requires a small 1" vibrator to sneak past the maze of bridging and rebar stuff inside the form, and you are supposed to never use aggregate over 3/4" size, and a loose mix to avoid air spaces.

Our most highly thought of homebuilder in the area refuses to build houses on ICF basements. They are required by law to warrantee a house for 10 years and they have been caught in an ICF mess with three houses that they are tearing off the foam inside and out to fill the conc voids.
This does not make the homeowner happy.

If we build, we have decided to go with conventional forms and put the foam on the outside before the backfill.

And yes, shade is a great thing. I am planting elms and poplars by my new shop as there were no trees in this spot. I miss the shade in summer, but I will probably die before I can sit under them.
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Last edited by Ironman; 10-16-2017 at 10:08 AM.
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  #40  
Old 10-16-2017, 12:01 PM
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I guess a email to zoning and planning is in order. First I have heard about a land disturbance permit.

At the most I would be clearing a total of four acres. I do like shade but I'd rather reduce the risk of trees falling on my shop or house.

There is a dry ditch in the middle of the back part of my property. I hope it doesn't restrict what I want to do.
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