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Old 07-19-2009, 09:13 PM
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TriHonu TriHonu is offline
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Default RAMCO Horizontal Bandsaw

I picked up a RAMCO RS-100P this morning. Found it on CraigsList for $125. The coolant pump and tank, the belt guard and cover for the switch box are gone, but the rest looks usable. I found a company in South Carolina that still sells parts for it. It is bigger than my 7x12 and looks to be about 8x15.

Do any of you have any experience with this saw?

The saw was really out of adjustment. I have it cutting decent but have one adjustment that keeps moving every time I open the saw to the vertical position. Pic 4 shows the steel plate that connects the pivot bar to the saw frame. When I open the saw frame to vertical, the plate is twisting under the bolts. When I close the arm the blade is no longer 90 degrees to the stationary vice jaw. I have torqued the bolts and it still moves. Short of spotting a couple of tack welds to hold the plate to the bracket, does anyone have another solution to keep it from moving?


Pics:
1 Front Closed
2 Front Open
3 Back
4 Pivot
5 Comparison to my RongFu 7x12
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Old 07-19-2009, 09:34 PM
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It's a Carolina Susie Bandsaw, Traveler's Rest, SC and now you have to read that entire thread.

Do you need the manual? Its on page one of the thread.
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Old 07-19-2009, 10:00 PM
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One of Susie's sisters. It has to have love but it will do a good job. Special blade for aluminum.
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Old 07-20-2009, 12:14 AM
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Thanks guy's. I just finished reading the thread on Susie.

Cutter, how come it took all the way to post 92 before you posted:

Quote:
Several of you have emailed and pmailed me about Carolinas over the last few months and I have tried my best to discourage you from buying the ones you found, did I not? So I will say it one more time for you visitors: never pay more than $100 for a Carolina Tool & Machinery or a Ramco bandsaw & only then if you don't mind trading your money for the experience of learning why they are a P.o.S., IMO, FWIW and AFAIAC.
And remember the definition of experience: what you get when you don't get what you want.
The thread gives me some good information on improvements for this saw. I also saw that the saw does come with an auto-shut off. This saw does not have the switch in the bed but now I know what that extra hole is for...

This saw has a 1 hp motor and takes 1" blades. Must be one size bigger than Susie.

Bandsaws in this area are hard to come by unless they are the little 4x6 saws. People up here still think the used 4x6's are worth $100. This one was only a mile or so away from home. I got it for my brother who lives about an hour south of me. He sees equipment as it should have been built, and then modifies it to work as it should. As soon as he gets some time I'm sure he will tune up Bob (Big Old Bandsaw).

Shoot, two good bi-metal blades will cost almost as much as the saw.
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Old 07-20-2009, 12:57 AM
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Ah, you probably got your money's worth but I've had several members email me about Carolinas they found for $300 - $600. No way.

I tinkered around with it for over a year before I finally soured on it.

All that being said, Old Man has been happy with his/my/our Susie even though he had to put a new motor on it and more recently he had to bore out the idler wheel & install a set of real bearings in it.

He can tell you about that.

My opinion is that the Carolina sawframe is built too weak. It can and will flex enough to throw it off the cutline under certain conditions. And as you have discovered, the pivots are not exactly the best. There are all kinds of things I found less than, ummm - ideal.

I can't really tell about the size but I suspect that maybe your blade guides & the blade relief area in the wheels may be the only differences that enable a 1 inch blade.
Everything in your pictures except the switch box looks same/same to me. I can see that someone has added a stop chain.

I guess we could view them as being kinda like most Harbor Freight machinery - just a saw in kit form.
I hope your brother is as happy with it as Old Man has been.
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Old 07-20-2009, 01:38 AM
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Just ordered two new blades from Ellis, one for large solids and one for aluminum Total was $78.
I highly recommend the bearings in the idler wheel in place of a bushing. Easy job with a mill.
Mine cuts straight as a string and if you look back where I am using a giant clamp on the outside it is necessary for anything shorter than 6". I cut 6" shaft with Susie all the time.
I have an aluminum block that has not been cut. Hopefully the new blade I have ordered will do it.
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Old 07-20-2009, 10:37 PM
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The RS-100P already has bearings in the wheels. The wheels and guide bearings are not narrow enough to run 3/4" blades with out touching the teeth on the blade. This may be the difference between the RS-90 and RS-100 models.

My brother picked up the saw at noon today. He was happy with the price and condition. He had the same thought to just spot weld the brackets to make sure they don't move. He appreciated the info from you guys. He is already talking about milling the movable vice jaw to take out some of the play, infeed table, outfeed table and a stock stop.

I didn't notice it at first, but there was a label on the roller base. It just so happened to be a label from a shop I used to work at about 11 years ago. I got a smile on my face when I saw it. I may have run this saw before. Glad not to be working there anymore...

Gave my brother the run down on what I had found and adjusted. As quick as we loaded it on the trailer he looked at it and laughed. He asked if the blade was slipping? I asked why and stated during one test cut the blade stopped and the belt slipped until I lifted the frame. He then pointed that the motor pulley key was missing and the only thing holding the pulley was the set screw. Yea, that would sure show up as soon as you tried to cut some thick stock.

I found two RS100's for sale on line for $1800 & $2000 and one that sold for $1500. Some people think highly of them.
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Old 07-20-2009, 10:49 PM
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Well dern, now Old Man will have to have one of the big ones.
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