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Old 01-19-2020, 07:53 PM
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Default Tig welding trials

Well I am challenging my equipment and abilities. Figured I would show a picture or several.

A buddy of mine is brewing tea, so he was talking about making a water tank to heat water in. Several of these around commercially, he knows I tinker with welding and came up with a damaged beer keg and a weld on threaded bung and a sanitary triclover weld on fitting.

I have an older everlast power pro256 dad gave me when he passed on, brand new never been powered up, 2010 build date. This is a multiprocess unit, all I got was machine and pedal assembly, no other parts. I have stick welded with it and did some aluminum tig with it, worked fine for that. I cranked it down and tried this thin stuff, turned it on and it freaked out, ( for lack of a better term, ) Foot pedal would only produce the high frequency start and not kick over to weld current. after much reading manual and twisting of knobs and checking settings I got it to scratch start tig. After scratching start the pedal appeared to operate properly and then seemed to go to full output and blow a hole in the keg. see pic one.I borrowed all the torch bottles and regulator gas to make this happen at home.

So, I shut the machine off and rolled all this up, Give it a break for a bit and use the tried and true Lincoln 175 tig machine at the shop. see remainder of pictures. ( have not leak tested yet. ) keg is about .035 thread ftg is about .187, and tri clover is about .060 inch. It was a little sugary on the back side. I need to work on my back purge setups.

On with the pictures.

1 nasty hole

2 where I patched the hole

345 are just shots of welding parts on.

Scott
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  #2  
Old 01-19-2020, 09:11 PM
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I see your welds got better as you progressed.
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Old 01-19-2020, 09:19 PM
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Does he plan to have a safety relief valve in the tank?
Good work on fixing the wound. I think you need to check for spider nests in the pedal. I have one of those and it works well.
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Old 01-19-2020, 09:23 PM
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Default Tig welding trials

Lots of practice makes perfect. Going stainless can be tricky, especially if your machine can’t go too low in amps. Then you need more skills to overcome the heat input.

But, it does sound like something is acting wierd with your everlast machine. I have never used that brand, do I am not much help with making sure you have correct settings being used.

But I would recommend practicing on similar scrap pieces before attempting the next project.

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Old 01-20-2020, 04:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milomilo View Post
I see your welds got better as you progressed.
Thank you

Scott
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Old 01-20-2020, 05:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironman View Post
Does he plan to have a safety relief valve in the tank?
Good work on fixing the wound. I think you need to check for spider nests in the pedal. I have one of those and it works well.
Tank will be open he cut the end out of it.

Thank you.

The pedal was a bit out of sorts, It has a timing belt on the metal piece spring loaded against the gear on the pot in the pedal, Yes, and you know how I know all this now.

I am going to pull the covers off to get to the pot on the front of the machine and clean them out. I'll venture a guess there are spiders and no telling what else is in there. It sat in a semi controlled environment for about 5 years.

I think this is the first time I have tried out the dc side of the tig welding section.

Scott
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Old 01-20-2020, 05:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toprecycler View Post
Lots of practice makes perfect. Going stainless can be tricky, especially if your machine can’t go too low in amps. Then you need more skills to overcome the heat input.

But, it does sound like something is acting wierd with your everlast machine. I have never used that brand, do I am not much help with making sure you have correct settings being used.

But I would recommend practicing on similar scrap pieces before attempting the next project.

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I was hoping to play with the pulse settings and help with the thin stuff. I might yet.

It did not act like this on the ac tig for aluminum, It just worked like I expected it to.

He left me a small keg to burn holes in.

Scott
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Old 01-21-2020, 01:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scotts View Post
The pedal was a bit out of sorts, It has a timing belt on the metal piece spring loaded against the gear on the pot in the pedal, Yes, and you know how I know all this now. Scott
Suggest you check resistance of the pedal pot at the pot and at the end of the connector, just in case there is an open in the circuit.
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Old 01-21-2020, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Gadgeteer View Post
Suggest you check resistance of the pedal pot at the pot and at the end of the connector, just in case there is an open in the circuit.
Good place to start so here we go,

#1 overall shot of the players

#2 Here I have the timing belt rack pulled away from the potentiometer

#3 Here is a close up of the pot. 47k ohm

#4 Here is the meter connection and this gets us 47k ohm. Leave the brown wire connected as it is the wiper on the pot, Connect the red lead to the green lead and you will get 0 ohms or direct connection. This pot checked good here and on the end of the wires at the connector.

#5 Meter reading as connected in the picture 4.

Pin out #s, this is a 7 pin connector using 5 wires.

BU=1
BK=2
Micro switch. The micro switch is not in the pictures it is on the other end of pedal in Normally open configuration.

G=3
BN=4 this is the center or wiper on the pot
W=5

I do not know if the machine uses the pot as 47k or 0 ohms to start out with.

As an aside: If you have a pot on a piece equipment and you want the pot to turn the other direction to control you just usually swap the 2 outside wires if the pot is wired into the controller correctly. For example, if you want the speed to increase as you turn clockwise and it decreases as you turn clockwise swap the 2 outside wires.

I'll say all the pedal components and operation test good.

Test will continue, It will not take long for me to be in over my head on this electronics stuff. I'll post pictures and questions.

Scott
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  #10  
Old 01-21-2020, 11:27 PM
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Does the pot output a smooth change in resistance from end to end when run through its full range of motion with meter probes in the connector?
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