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  #11  
Old 01-05-2019, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Lew Hartswick View Post
I made one 3 or 4 years ago ( right after I saw it on the net somewhere ) and after using it a few times it sat in the tool cabinet until I needed one of the dial indicators. The rest of it is still in there but it'll never get used again. :-) I tram the 4 Bridgeports now with a single indicator and a 12 brake disc from a F250 Ford modified a bit. :-) I checked the thickness all the way around and couldn't see any change with a mic. It gives a larger span, especially in the Y axis, and is only a bit longer to do.
...lew...
Hey now, That's not a bad ideal either. I am just making these for my drill press tables and because I want to make something I think I am a little capable of doing with my limited machinist abilities

I have a couple of new rotors that had gotten some rusted spots on the...
I can't take them back anyway don't know who bought then or where they came from showed up in my scrap pile one day... they should be perfect for this being I wont be using them on any job a little rougher finish than a used one but should do the job after I plaz out the center

Thanks Lew for the good idea
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  #12  
Old 01-05-2019, 01:24 PM
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I am just making these for my drill press tables
Why do you want to tram a drill press?
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Last edited by cutter; 01-05-2019 at 03:42 PM. Reason: duh :/
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  #13  
Old 01-05-2019, 01:38 PM
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Why do you want to tram a dress press?
What is a dress press?
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  #14  
Old 01-05-2019, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by cutter View Post
Why do you want to tram a dress press?
So the poking hole is not cockeyed
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  #15  
Old 01-05-2019, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by MetalWolf View Post
...Is this DIY spindle square worth while. ??

And if made properly should be fairly accurate. ??
As Gerry says the beauty of the spindle square is that as long as you properly zero the two indicators each time you use it you'll get good readings. For obvious reasons you want to make it as square as possible but it doesn't have to be perfect.

After I got my "Edge" tool I took it with me one time when I went up to visit Terry and he has since made one too. If I were working in a "home shop" I'd have made one myself but since I'm still running a business it was worth it to me to spend the 150 bucks and buy one. That's like an hour and a half of my time so it was cheaper to buy rather than make. The "Edge" square is really nicely built and, of course, it is entirely AMERICAN MADE so I was doing you guys a favour by buying one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by milomilo View Post
I do have a sort of granite slab. Not certified, but likely good enough for testing.
No need for anything like that. To calibrate the square at the beginning of a session you simply place a little neodymium magnet (which comes with the Edge kit) on the table and zero the first indicator then rotate the tool 180 degrees and zero the second indicator. Spin it around once to make sure both indicators are reading zero and you're done calibrating.

Once you've done the calibration you simply drop the tool down till both indicators are sitting on the table and move the head till the indicators read a perfect zero in both the X and Y axis. The hardest part is the last little bit of adjustment because even though you may have the head perfectly zeroed it will move ever so slightly when you do the final tightening of the bolts that hold the head in place. To get it perfect you have to adjust that movement out.

This was where I always had the most trouble; with a single dial indicator you always have to think which way to move the head to remove that last tiny little bit of error and--at least half the time--I'd get that close and move the head the wrong way and end up with a .015"-.020" error. With a spindle square you don't have that problem because you can see immediately which direction you have to move the head to get it square.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lew Hartswick View Post
I made one 3 or 4 years ago ( right after I saw it on the net somewhere ) and after using it a few times it sat in the tool cabinet until I needed one of the dial indicators. The rest of it is still in there but it'll never get used again...
What was it about the tool that you didn't like?

Quote:
...I tram the 4 Bridgeports now with a single indicator and a 12 brake disc from a F250 Ford modified a bit. :-) I checked the thickness all the way around and couldn't see any change with a mic. It gives a larger span, especially in the Y axis, and is only a bit longer to do...
I know a lot of home shop guys use the brake rotor for tramming but I never liked the idea. While the rotor may be nearly perfect I can't help but think that there is "something" between the indicator and the table that introduces the possibility of an error. The reason they are popular is that with the brake rotor you can sweep the indicator over the face without the interruptions of the slots on the table. Convenient for sure but still more chance that there will be errors in your readings.

For the many years that I trammed my tables with only a single indicator I used a Starrett back-plunger indicator with a large (3/4" diameter) button on the back. You could set this up so the indicator would sweep around the table and the button would dip into each table slot but still give you a positive reading when it was touching the table itself. It also had the advantage of having the dial face up so it was easier to read whether at the front or the rear of the table. That said, a spindle square is still faster and easier.

In the end the test of "squareness" of spindle to table is best determined by making a couple passes on a part with a wide (3'-4") face mill or a flycutter. If there is no ridge where the two cuts overlap then you know your table is pretty damn square.

One other neat trick with a spindle square is setting the head to cut a particular angle other than 90 degrees to the table. Using a sine bar and gauge blocks you set the sine bar to the the precise angle you require--with gauge blocks you can get it very precise but I'm not going to go into that process here, there are lots of resources on line--then simply mount the spindle square in your mill and tilt the head till both indicators read zero. Your spindle is set to whatever angle you set the sine bar to...

Using a Sine Bar
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  #16  
Old 01-05-2019, 06:27 PM
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Well here is how far I got so far...
the mill drill is a pain in the ass to operate drill press would of been much faster but more sloppy

I have to cut the slots, turn the stim/arbor whatever its called and then tap the small holes and then clean it up some but so far so good
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  #17  
Old 01-06-2019, 01:03 AM
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Ok so its taking me a bit longer to get this thing made cause my turning tools are shit! either dull or chipped and I have not learned to grind my own to well just yet so have to use the HF turning tools that are not quite sharp so its slow going…. but so far so good here is what I have now and how far it is but have a few other things to do before they are finished and am still working on the first one...…
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  #18  
Old 01-06-2019, 07:28 AM
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Looking good so far. I thought about making one several years ago, and just have not done it yet. Need to add it to my todo list.


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  #19  
Old 01-06-2019, 09:56 AM
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Looks fine, Wolfy. Is the center pin a press fit, or held in by a screw?
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  #20  
Old 01-06-2019, 10:21 AM
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Six of one, half dozen of another. It all depends on what you are use to, when tramming the head.
I have used all three methods, listed here, to tram in the head on my mill.
The old single indicator sweep method, works but is slowest. The newer method with a modified brake rotor, quicker but more accurate, but more finicky, in my opinion.
Borrowed an Edge spindle square, liked it but too pricey at the time.
I have the materials to build a spindle square but have not done it yet, as I have not yet bought the reamer for this project.
I am using a long shoulder bolt for a plastic injection mold stripper plate, for the axle.
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