![]() |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
![]() I've tried some penetrating fluid (dont care about preserving the brake pads) between backing plate and drum and a pipe wrench with cheater on the raised portions on the drum face but I was stressing the pipe wrench too much. Thinking about making a plate to bolt on the drum with a welded stub or arm to attach the cheater pipe to. Looking for any tricks you guys have.
__________________
Equipment:
- Mig: Lincoln Wire-Matic 250, HTP Mig 200, Miller Millermatic 200 w/ spool - Stick/Tig: Thermal Arc LT-300 Tig/Stick, AHP Tig 200, Miller CST 280 - Plasma: Thermal Dynamics Pak Master 100, Herocut 50A non-HF blow-back plasma - Machinery: Jet JTM-1 Mill (needs repairs), Emco V10P lathe, Yuasa surface grinder, Ingersoll 5HP T30 #253 Compressor |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
I would wallop it with a 5 lb sledge, and rotate 90 deg, do it again until I had gone full circle. In your case you can't turn it, so the thing to do is to drill the backplate where the shoe meets the drum so the contact area is exposed. Then drive a screwdriver or small chisel between the shoe and the drum. This will part them.
Or, undo or cut the bolts holding the back plate to the axle, usually 4 of them, and remove the axle nut and bearing and pull the whole thing off the spindle. A new drum and backplate with shoes and magnet is not that expensive from e-trailer dot com. $90 for a set of 2 backplates.
__________________
Gerry You got freedom of speech, if you don't say too much. Aaron Neville. When a liberal screams racism, you can bet they were also born with white skin. The countries whom the gods would destroy they first make green. Rex Murphy |
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|