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#11
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cab. Use 1 full can and a part can, still using the same part can for odds and ends. I use it on hub assy and brake rotors all the time and have had them come off with ease since. So the cans go along way they are big cans. You can just dissolve the wax and fluidfilm to make your own, you can usually get cheap paraffin wax at Hobby Lobby. FF is going to give you far superior Rust Protection than using hydraulic oil or some off the shelf grease.
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Shade "Prepare to defend yourselves." -- Sergeant Major Basil L. Plumley, Ia Drang Valley |
#12
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If your turbo is working no reason to change it.
I use this product and paid for the Ford package, so I can read and run all the Ford diagnostics. I have the 2000 F-350 and a 2011 Explorer. I have been very happy with the product. With it I can monitor the boost. https://www.autoenginuity.com/scantool/
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Shade "Prepare to defend yourselves." -- Sergeant Major Basil L. Plumley, Ia Drang Valley |
#13
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Actually that is the scanner I have. But I havent really taken advantage of it, just reading codes, some buzz tests here and there and taken some instant readings on some sensors. I never really tried driving around and data logging. Part of it is not knowing what the expected sensor values for healthy engine vs one that is a bit worn out but still operating mostly fine.
Sensors i want to watch are? 1) ICP - injection control pressure? this is the oil pressure driving the injectors (ipr modulates this based on computer control?), and will be up to the 3000psi that the hpop puts out? I dont know what pressure numbers to expect) 2) IPR - duty cycle - if i understand right, with a healthy hpop the IPR duty cycle will not exceed something like 60-70% under near WOT. If weak hpop, then duty cycle will run higher in attempt to meet the injector needs. 3) manifold pressure - amount of boost over atmospheric pressure? I can use this to see boost turbo puts out. |
#14
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__________________
Shade "Prepare to defend yourselves." -- Sergeant Major Basil L. Plumley, Ia Drang Valley |
#15
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Yep ford package. Bought long time ago for another truck but did not do the yearly updates, so I think i can only do through 2008 or 2010 model year. Yeah, just overwhelmed with the PIDs I can view, long lists of all sensors.
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#16
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While you have the engine where you can get at things, I would recommend you change the injector mount o rings, easy job on a bare engine, kind of a bitch in chassis, a seeping hpop oring can cause all manner of fun symptoms, also check and clean the fuel passage return valve,
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#17
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Sweet, I have been happy with the system.
__________________
Shade "Prepare to defend yourselves." -- Sergeant Major Basil L. Plumley, Ia Drang Valley |
#18
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Injector mount o-rings? could you clarify, not sure what this is. the injectors are coming back rebuilt with new plungers/barrels and new nozzles. And will already have new o-rings (the ones that seat against the injector cups in the head) installed and copper crush washer. I just got to pop out the old injectors and install the new ones. I will take out the GPs so i can evacuate the oil that falls into the cylinders. Yeah i will clean the top end and look for oil leaks from hpop and lines and pedestal. Not sure where the fuel return valve is, but ill investigate. thanks. |
#19
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That is the o rings I was talking about, they separate the passages, perhaps I skipped over reading the part where you mentioned having the injection units out. When someone says injector o ring to me that means internal o rings, if applicable, nomenclature, Kind of like rocker covers as opposed to valve covers,
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#20
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Great, the "mount" part threw me. Plenty of o-rings in this truck, just wanted to make sure. Thanks.
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