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Old 11-10-2009, 10:06 PM
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Default Stick welding sheet metal

I have never stick welded sheet metal before. Tho I have done it with MIG in the past. But all I have now is my 220v stick welder.

There is a lip on the firewall of my F100 that I need to work over to stop rain from getting in. I believe the base metal is 18 or 16 gauge. Any patch panels would be made from 14 gauge.

My questions are...what size and type rod should I use? What amp settings? Will it be a pain in the back side to do it with stick?
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Old 11-10-2009, 10:27 PM
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good luck.
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Old 11-10-2009, 10:31 PM
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What make of welder ?

1/16"
6013
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Old 11-10-2009, 10:39 PM
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Miller Thunderbolt XL 225 amps Ac, 150 DC.

In the attached pic I have to seal up the areas of the lip that have rotten away. The big hole in the firewall is not the cause. (there was some metal there that was rusted clean through) 2nd pic is directly opposite that spot, as seem from where the radio would be.

The chap and dirty fix would be some silicone until I can properly take the truck down and go through everything. But....
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Last edited by OldRedFord; 11-10-2009 at 10:52 PM.
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Old 11-10-2009, 10:51 PM
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1/16", 6011 run on DC at low amperage, with the ground positive and the rod hooked to the negative post. Works real well with "new" steel, not sure of painted or rusty metal.

jack
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Old 11-10-2009, 11:05 PM
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I used to stick weld SS 16 gauge sheet with AC, 1/16 rod, about 35A (if I recall correctly). Not easy. DC would have been better/easier, but I didn't have it. Using a good backing against the sheet helped. No long passes. 3/32 at about 65A worked too, but hard to control since the travel had to be so fast.

Might be easier to "spot" weld a few places to hold the new section in and then use body filler.
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Old 11-10-2009, 11:58 PM
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Easy peasy.....run 60a DCEN with a 3/32 6011 and move quickly. There a few of the guys here that have seen me do it. The key will be to whip and move rapidly, but not loose the bead. Whipping is essential so the puddle doesn't get too hot. That will handle 16 ga all day long. If its 18 ga, it will be a tad hot. Either turn it down about 5a and see what happens, or up 5a and go to an 1/8" 6011. You will be running a super short arc on both. I made a living doing just this for a very long time. Joints need to be super tight and if you can run lap joints, so much the better.
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Old 11-11-2009, 12:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDA52 View Post
Easy peasy.....run 60a DCEN with a 3/32 6011 and move quickly. There a few of the guys here that have seen me do it. The key will be to whip and move rapidly, but not loose the bead. Whipping is essential so the puddle doesn't get too hot. That will handle 16 ga all day long. If its 18 ga, it will be a tad hot. Either turn it down about 5a and see what happens, or up 5a and go to an 1/8" 6011. You will be running a super short arc on both. I made a living doing just this for a very long time. Joints need to be super tight and if you can run lap joints, so much the better.
Uhmmmm, I have seen Don do this first hand and never woulda thunk it.
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Old 11-11-2009, 02:14 AM
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what about flanging the base sheet and then laying the patch into that first. it will give you a thicker backing so its not as easy to burn through. i do this when im welding quarters on or patches. im using a lincoln 135 though so i dont have any problem with the heat.
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Old 11-11-2009, 08:17 AM
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+1 FOR 1/16 OR 3/32 6013 I don't doubt it would work with 6011 but 6013 is meant for sheet metal. The only advantage I can see to 6011 is the fast freezing property, but in my mind the deep penetration negates that.
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