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  #11  
Old 04-18-2009, 08:07 PM
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Is there any chance that your drive rolls are the wrong size? Say .045 instead of .035. I have had that problem when switching from 1/16 hard wire to .045 flux core, and forgetting to switch the rolls out. Just wondering.
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  #12  
Old 04-18-2009, 08:37 PM
Gearhead39m Gearhead39m is offline
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Lay your gun's cable out as straight as possible when your ready to weld. When you put it up don't roll it up in a ball, use long loops and large radiuses. Hope this helps...
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  #13  
Old 04-18-2009, 09:12 PM
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Ok, now for my 2cents....


Quote:
It didn't feed any better with the nylon liner, compared to the spring steel liner. The wire motor spins just fin & there is no adjustment to the height of the guides compared to the roller.
Are you saying there is no tension roller adjustment for feeding the wire just prior to it's entry into the liner? I have to be mis-reading/interpreting.

Also, even though the wire rollers look clean in their grooves, remove the wire and clean them with a little light soft s/s brushing. Even though the wire is new and/or right out of the wrapper there will still be some of the wires coating that will transfer to these rollers.

Not saying it's the end all fix, but I do use scotch bright pads/pieces cut doubled and trippled and clipped on the wire with spring type paper clips with a few drops of wire lube(anti-spat) on the scotch bright.

One is on the wire just after it leaves it's wire spool prior to the tension wheels/spools and the other just prior to it being introduced into the liner. It appears I get more spools of wire out of having to clean the tension wheel grooves and much less wear and problems with the liners. I run the MM 175 and MM350P both with this. I've probably run 50 to 75 or better of the little spools of .035" wire in the 175 since new and have yet to change the liner. It may be worn, but it's still welding it's azz off. I've only cleaned the liner once because I thought I had a feed problem once I replaced an empty spool with a fresh one. It helps the trigger and wire feed if you actually flip the switch to on and turn the machine on to make that humming fan noise.

Quote:
I think part of the problem is the wingnut to the wire spool gets tighter, which puts more tension on the spool, then the roller just spins on the wire. I did the same with the 0.30 wire too.
Get rid of the wing nut and replace it with a nylock nut or double nut the wing nut. If it's a free spinning nut, it will tighten with the rotation of the spool.

In addition, if this tightening of the spool and thus have the drive rollers slipping with the wire not moving, there is/will be some wear on the drive rollers as well. They may be hardened, but they will wear enough to be less effective and problematic. It doesn't take many revolutions of wire to roller slippage to cause wear.

Quote:
I think the whole problem is the wire feed issue. When it fed the wire correctly, it had a nice strong arc. I think if as the wire heats up from the current passing through it, the kinks cause a lot more drag & stops the wire from feeding.
Absorootry!!!! We have a winner. What happens to your arc once you turn down your wire speed?

Sometimes I wish I was paid by the foot of wire that I have used off spools in my past. Say a dollar per? I love MIG, but it sure has made my stick abilities turn to shit.
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  #14  
Old 04-18-2009, 09:28 PM
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Quote:
Lay your gun's cable out as straight as possible when your ready to weld. When you put it up don't roll it up in a ball, use long loops and large radiuses. Hope this helps...
Gearhead, I see where your coming from, but actually, if the liner is clean and neat, the drive rollers pinching the wire as they should and all things aligned in the universe, you could darn near tie a lead in a knot and it would still feed. Not really, but loops during storeage shouldn't hurt, but being aware will certainly add life.
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  #15  
Old 04-18-2009, 10:30 PM
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I'm not a welding guru by any means.

I used to troubleshoot all the time. I read the manual and D6 is not on the recommended settings on page 32. My optical micrometer is not working so I can't tell what your actual metal thickness is. :evil::evil: This is really the proof that you don't have enough wire coming through.

Some other things when I scanned the manual. Is the polarity right, again on page 32?

Too much tension on the feed rollers is just as bad as too little. Too much and it deforms the wire. Page 17
Quote:
The idle roll pressure adjustment wing nut is normally
set for mid-position on the pressure arm
threads. If feeding problems occur because the
wire is flattened excessively, turn the pressure
adjustment counter-clockwise to reduce distortion
of the wire. Slightly less pressure may be required
when using 0.023 – 0.025” (0,6 mm) wire. If the
drive roll slips while feeding wire, the pressure
should be increased until the wire feeds properly.
If is flattened you are going to have to feed out all the 'flat' wire after you've made an adjustment.

Is the Tip and the Drive Roll the right size for the wire?

I hope it helps.
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  #16  
Old 04-18-2009, 10:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LW Hiway View Post
Ok, now for my 2cents....



Are you saying there is no tension roller adjustment for feeding the wire just prior to it's entry into the liner? I have to be mis-reading/interpreting.
I have the tension maxed out, that's why I put the washers under the tension spring trying to increase wire tension.

Quote:
Also, even though the wire rollers look clean in their grooves, remove the wire and clean them with a little light soft s/s brushing. Even though the wire is new and/or right out of the wrapper there will still be some of the wires coating that will transfer to these rollers.
I have removed the drive wheel several times & cleaned it with my wire "toothbrush". Makes no difference in wire feeding.

Quote:
Not saying it's the end all fix, but I do use scotch bright pads/pieces cut doubled and trippled and clipped on the wire with spring type paper clips with a few drops of wire lube(anti-spat) on the scotch bright.
I'll try that. Not sure about the wire lube though, I figure it needs to be dry. Not much humidity here in Yuma, so dry usually isn't a problem.

Quote:
One is on the wire just after it leaves it's wire spool prior to the tension wheels/spools and the other just prior to it being introduced into the liner. It appears I get more spools of wire out of having to clean the tension wheel grooves and much less wear and problems with the liners. I run the MM 175 and MM350P both with this. I've probably run 50 to 75 or better of the little spools of .035" wire in the 175 since new and have yet to change the liner. It may be worn, but it's still welding it's azz off. I've only cleaned the liner once because I thought I had a feed problem once I replaced an empty spool with a fresh one. It helps the trigger and wire feed if you actually flip the switch to on and turn the machine on to make that humming fan noise.
There isn't enough room between the wire guide prior to the wire entering the liner. I will probably have to replace the wire feed roller, just don't know if I need the knurled roller or just the plain one.

Quote:
Get rid of the wing nut and replace it with a nylock nut or double nut the wing nut. If it's a free spinning nut, it will tighten with the rotation of the spool.
That's on the agenda for tomorrow. Have to go to the hardware store & get one, but I'll have it set up just like the Hobart. Now I need to get the 8" spool adapter also.

Quote:
In addition, if this tightening of the spool and thus have the drive rollers slipping with the wire not moving, there is/will be some wear on the drive rollers as well. They may be hardened, but they will wear enough to be less effective and problematic. It doesn't take many revolutions of wire to roller slippage to cause wear.


Absorootry!!!! We have a winner. What happens to your arc once you turn down your wire speed?
The arc sputters to a stop. Then no arc, then it jumps & I get a match head sized arc, then it picks up to a full arc. The wire feed motor doesn't change speed, it's the wire slipping in the feeder. I can see the wire slipping. I don't like throwing parts at a problem, would rather trouble shoot it & fix it right once & with the least expense.

Quote:
Sometimes I wish I was paid by the foot of wire that I have used off spools in my past. Say a dollar per? I love MIG, but it sure has made my stick abilities turn to shit.
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Hobart Handler 175
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  #17  
Old 04-18-2009, 11:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RancherBill View Post
I'm not a welding guru by any means.

I used to troubleshoot all the time. I read the manual and D6 is not on the recommended settings on page 32. My optical micrometer is not working so I can't tell what your actual metal thickness is. :evil::evil: This is really the proof that you don't have enough wire coming through.

Some other things when I scanned the manual. Is the polarity right, again on page 32?

Too much tension on the feed rollers is just as bad as too little. Too much and it deforms the wire. Page 17


If is flattened you are going to have to feed out all the 'flat' wire after you've made an adjustment.

Is the Tip and the Drive Roll the right size for the wire?

I hope it helps.
Polarity is set correct for Flux Core wire (DC Neg). According to the chart on the door, 3/16" thick metal & running 0.35 flux core wire should be D-3. It's the second line from the bottom on the chart in the book. D-3 setting starts at 12 gauge, all the way to 1/4". 0.45 flux core wire uses a hotter setting.

The only reason I was trying to tighten the tension is the wire wasn't being fed at the lower tension levels. Drive tip is 0.35, liner works for 0.23-0.35 wire. It also did this with the 0.30 wire I was using.

Here's a shot of the wire feeder.........
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Mark

I haven't always been a nurse..........

Hobart Handler 175
Century AC 230 amp stick welder
Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG
Oxy/Acetylene set
Hand/Power tools
Clark 4x6 Bandsaw
Harbor Freight Tubing Roller
Craftsman 12 x 36 lathe
New to me Enco GL-30B Mill/Drill Thank you 1800Miner
Papa Lion's Gate Build

I don't do nuttin half azzed. I phawk it up completely, given half a chance.

Last edited by MarkBall2; 04-18-2009 at 11:15 PM.
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  #18  
Old 04-18-2009, 11:25 PM
shortarc shortarc is offline
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Don't know if this applies to the Lincoln you have, but I have an older SP 135 T Lincoln.

If you remove the wing bolt that holds the spool on and look in the hole there is an Allen screw down in there, back that screw out until you can tighten the wing bolt tight and just have enough tension to keep the spool from unwinding by itself.
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  #19  
Old 04-18-2009, 11:51 PM
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I'll look, but I doubt it has one. There is a keyway on the front side of the stud holding the spool on. I doubt they would have a bore hole & screw inside it.
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Mark

I haven't always been a nurse..........

Hobart Handler 175
Century AC 230 amp stick welder
Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG
Oxy/Acetylene set
Hand/Power tools
Clark 4x6 Bandsaw
Harbor Freight Tubing Roller
Craftsman 12 x 36 lathe
New to me Enco GL-30B Mill/Drill Thank you 1800Miner
Papa Lion's Gate Build

I don't do nuttin half azzed. I phawk it up completely, given half a chance.
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  #20  
Old 04-19-2009, 07:31 AM
David R David R is offline
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I too have an OLD SP100. I put a piece of a pencil behind the bolt that holds the spool on so it doesn't tighten up the tension nut.

Its not a test until the machine is working properly.

Having the drive rolls too tight will flatten the wire and it won't go through the liner or the tip causing all kinds of aggravation. Perhaps a knurled drive will help with the cored wire, then it doesn't need much tension at all.

Please keep us posted.

David
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