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  #11  
Old 04-09-2007, 09:25 AM
rasommer2002 rasommer2002 is offline
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Shure is a Dialarc HF, but there are many parts missing. As a previous poster mentioned, this machine was probably a "parts" unit and was scavanged repeatedly. Might want to find another Dialarc HF and keep this one for spares.
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  #12  
Old 04-09-2007, 12:08 PM
VW cat VW cat is offline
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GWIS,
There are 4 small wires going to the missing current control with 2 ganged together. I have a 100amp 220V service in the shop. Under the large transformer is the floor plate with a screen in it.
I'm having the Miller dealer check the price on the part#'s found in the link to the owners manual. The rectifier is #111 935 and the current control # 083 671(150 Watt). I have a current control off an old portable welder, will it work? The fan will fit and the bracket appears to be similar to the original except for the resistor mounted on it. The missing rectifier bolts to this bracket. I picked up what I think is a huge Miller rectifier in the scrap bin today, off a welder the size of a frig, however there was no current control mounted anywhere on the machine. Phil
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  #13  
Old 04-09-2007, 04:56 PM
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GWIZ GWIZ is offline
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That makes things easier, Thank Paychk and sparx.

I'm going to also assume its a RED miller. some people on this site are not going too like that.
_____________
Do NOT use your spare Rheostat. you can damage something.
Your picture shows it has a resistance of 3 ohms, going by the miller drawing that's to low and will overload the power supply feeding the rheostat.


R1 083-671 RHEOSTAT WW 150W 15 ohm.

WW=means wire wound

150W= is 150 watts, that's the amount of heat the rheostat can handle/dissipate.
This thing can get as hot as a 150 watt light bulb.
You want a rheostat that is 150 watts or larger.

15 ohm = that's the resistance of the rheostat (wire)

__

In an electronic store the diodes go for about $18.00 each.
__

Do you have a meter that will measure resistance (ohms) ?

If you can find a large resistor hi wattage (100 watts or larger) about 12 ohms up to 20 ohms.
We can fire up the machine just to test it without the fan or diodes.

What's the resistance of that resistor mounted with that fan ?
The size looks like a 200 watt resistor.


This all assumes there's nothing else missing.
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  #14  
Old 04-10-2007, 05:54 AM
VW cat VW cat is offline
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I checked the resistor on the fan and it is a 20 ohm, my meter reads the same too. I really want to get this machine working...been looking for one for 15 years. Would an electronic supply company have a rheostat for less than the $118 the dealer wants? Also do we need that pink board (phenalic?) to build the rectifier? There is some on the scrap welder; I know I'm jumping the gun but I'm feeling so positive.. Thanks, Phil

Last edited by VW cat; 04-10-2007 at 06:02 AM.
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  #15  
Old 04-10-2007, 08:45 AM
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Shade Tree Welder Shade Tree Welder is offline
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SUPERCEDED TO 222994: kit, replace rheostat for 083671: $88.04 ea USD.
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"Prepare to defend yourselves."
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  #16  
Old 04-10-2007, 02:57 PM
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GWIZ GWIZ is offline
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Quote:
I checked the resistor on the fan and it is a 20 ohm, my meter reads the same too. I really want to get this machine working...been looking for one for 15 years.
I will get back to you on firing this machine up for a TEST with that resistor.
Do you have some cables and a stinger to run some welds?


Quote:
Also do we need that pink board (phenalic?) to build the rectifier? There is some on the scrap welder;
Yes, and maybe more. Depends on the physical size of the rectifiers you have/get.


Quote:
I know I'm jumping the gun but I'm feeling so positive..
Everytime I jump the gun I shoot my self in the foot.

Quote:
Would an electronic supply company have a rheostat for less than the $118 the dealer wants?
Yes, If you take your time and search the net.

Rheostat.
I've seen them on e-Bay about $10.00 + $10.00 shipping = $20.00 USA.

Note. Some Rheostats are linear and some are tapered.

Linear rheostats vary its resistance equally thru out its range.
Tapered Rheostats, the resistance tapers off at/about the last 35% of its range.

We don't know what Miller is using so a replacement may not track with your printed dial on the machine.

You can print a new dial.
______________


I ordered from this place a few times.
Their prices change, something you may need to argue with them.

You should verify all my numbers on their website, Just in case I made a typing error.

http://www.mouser.com/catalog/629/526.pdf
NOTE PRICE.

MOUSER
Page 526 Catalog #629 Feb-April 2007
(800) 346-6873

Mouser# 588-RLS15RE

Ohmite # RLS15RE
4" diameter.
150 Watts.
15 ohms.
$49.18 USA
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  #17  
Old 04-10-2007, 05:53 PM
VW cat VW cat is offline
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GWIS/ Shade Tree Welder, I called about the rectifier assembly, the dealer said discontinued, but I didn't ask about individual parts of it. Referred to a repair guy, he said I had better use the right rheostat, or it won't work right and that the factory one was the only one available( I have heard that line before ). Referred on to another business 200 miles away, I found a used rheostat for $75 or $134 new( an improved version), and the complete fan, shroud, rectifier for $200,
I do have cables that unplug from my stick machine, I think I can clamp them to the terminals. The link is most interesting, thank you again for your help. I will get a power cord rigged up( jumping the gun) if I can figure out which configuration to use..the 200V or 230V ? Attached photo is the ?? assembly from the scrap monster Miller. Phil
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  #18  
Old 04-10-2007, 07:23 PM
ventureline ventureline is offline
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Yeahhhh, the whole rectifier is missing, rheostat as well. I'd be inclined to say, that it probably had main transformer problems.

Very difficult to just get the copper off the shunts, you have to cut grind the welds off the sides of the shunts just to gain acess to the coils, and while it looks like alot of copper is there, there really isn't. Maybe enough for a 2-4 of beer for 4hrs or work to strip.. Best to take it to a scrap yard as is and get the weighted price.

Oh a new rheostat for that unit is $40 bucks US
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  #19  
Old 04-11-2007, 12:45 AM
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GWIZ GWIZ is offline
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It's GWIZ not GWI"S".

NEVER work inside the welder while the power is connected to the welder.

We first need to figure out the loose wires.

See picture, Drawing 1.
A rectifier bridge. The 4 Diode configuration in the schematic.
Look at it as if, its in a square box.
Two wires go in to feed it AC power. (Input AC)
Two wires feed out DC power. One wire is the plus and one wire is the minus. (DC output)

I count 5 wires in your picture.
More then likely the additional wire was connected to one of the other four wires.
An other words, sandwiched together on the rectifier unit.

You will need to look at the schematic and identify which of the two wires need to be tied together with a bolt and taped up.

See picture, Drawing 1.
Maybe this is the extra wire. TP1 is the common Tie point. and Common AC line that feeds both the rectifier bridge and feeds AC to the welding cable post thru the selector switch.

They may have brought the two wires together and screwed them to the rectifiers making this three point connection.
Without this connection you will not get the AC to the welding cable.

Tape up all the other wires individually separately and rest them on something non conductive. clean block of wood or something.
Try to keep them 1" apart from each other and any metal.


If I'm wrong at any point let me know.
__
See picture, Inside Top.
I cant tell what I'm seeing.
In the blue circle, the connections look suspiciously close. make sure nothing is touching anything its not suppose to.

Will be Continued in another post.
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  #20  
Old 04-11-2007, 02:29 AM
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GWIZ GWIZ is offline
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See picture, Drawing 2 Bridge.

Take a Good look for any more wires that should be connected to the rectifier bridge.
The drawing from the miller manual shows Seven wires.
Note, Drawings are Not always right.
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