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  #21  
Old 07-06-2019, 08:37 PM
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mccutter mccutter is offline
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Originally Posted by Shade guy View Post
Okay thank you for taking the time to help.
I applied 12 volts to numbers 5 and 6 and hear a click
I get continuity between 1 and 3 and 2 and 4
I take this to mean the relay is working as it should.
I will test the other 2 relays tomorrow.
Hook a load such as a lightbulb up to the "output" of the relay then power test and see if the light comes on...
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  #22  
Old 07-07-2019, 08:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shade guy View Post
Okay thank you for taking the time to help.
I applied 12 volts to numbers 5 and 6 and hear a click
I get continuity between 1 and 3 and 2 and 4
I take this to mean the relay is working as it should.
I will test the other 2 relays tomorrow.
Your welcome,

the clicking and continuity indicate, a good coil and continuity showing on the meter are a good sign, as stated by MC now you can hook a load to it and test that out. The reason for this is the meter can detect good continuity with very little ability to carry current, connecting a load will verify that the contacts at 1,3-2,4 are able to carry the load and operate correctly.

If you can get to the coil connections on the relays while they are in place with the other wires connected that will supply the load as it should operate what you are wanting to operate.

Scott
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  #23  
Old 07-07-2019, 09:47 AM
Shade guy Shade guy is offline
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Ok I connected power to 5 and 6 and a 12v light bulb to 2 and 4. Light bulb did not light
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  #24  
Old 07-07-2019, 12:07 PM
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You are going to need just a little bit more connections to make the bulb light.

5,6 are not connected to any of the other terminals inside. just to the coil. all other connections will be made to the 4 terminals for the contacts.

Since you have the coil powered you have positive and negative 12 volts there handy take the negative and connect a wire to the outside brass of the bulb.

Take the positive wire and jumper from the positive side of 5 or 6 whichever it is to terminal # 4, then touch the connection at the base of the bulb to terminal #2 while you have power going to 5,6. this will make terminals 2,4 connect internally and the power will flow from positive supply > 4> through internal connection>out #2 through the connection on base of bulb>filament>outside brass> through wire>negative connection to complete circuit.

Scott
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  #25  
Old 07-07-2019, 06:06 PM
Shade guy Shade guy is offline
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Thanks for the clarification.
I found one of my test lights and set up a jumper wire and the light lit up.
Some it seems that relay is good.
Now that I know where the power comes into the relay I can tell there is no power to them.
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  #26  
Old 07-09-2019, 12:24 PM
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GWIZ GWIZ is offline
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on the working lift check when the green light comes on.

looks like it may only indicate when
all three are satisfied.

level
foot pads down.
weight on foot stand.

and only then will supply power to one of the lifting relays.

is it all three or just one or two ?
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  #27  
Old 07-09-2019, 01:13 PM
Shade guy Shade guy is offline
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Well I feel like an idiot. I thought I had bypassed the foot switches.
I looked at again and I had connected the wrong wires together.
Now its lifting.

Next issue is this a sheave or a pulley?
It is 3" in diameter with a 5/8 shaft

Its made by Efson but I think they went out of business.
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  #28  
Old 07-09-2019, 01:56 PM
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Google cable sheave with bearing, and you should find something.


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  #29  
Old 07-09-2019, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greywynd View Post
Google cable sheave with bearing, and you should find something.


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Ok Thanks
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  #30  
Old 07-09-2019, 03:15 PM
Shade guy Shade guy is offline
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Well there is some other problem as soon as I hook up the foot switches it won't lift. If I bypass them it lifts. They both test open and then closed when the buttons are pushed. Also I am getting 8 volts to the foot switch terminals.
And it will lift when the level sensor is not level even when it upside down as long as the foot switches are bypassed.
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