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Old 10-04-2013, 03:21 PM
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GWIZ GWIZ is offline
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Default Harley hydraulic lifters....MotorDoctor?

Not mine, someone I know.

1990 FRS EVO, 80
about 20,000 miles.


Bent the rear valve and damaged the cam, I guess it's a common problem that the bearings on the rollers go bad.
Which lifters would be better S&S or Jims lifters?

Being that one rod slips into the other.
The question is about the front crankshaft rod, get about a .010 rock looking at the small end so when you look at the large end there is not much movement.
It seams to be a rock, not side movement as you would expect. would that be normal play for a Harley?

In other words thinking about replacing the crankshaft bearings and crank pin. any info .
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Last edited by GWIZ; 10-04-2013 at 03:27 PM.
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Old 10-04-2013, 07:06 PM
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Well, unfortunately I only know enough about Harley's to be dangerous. I would think Moe would be an expert on them though. The Harley shop down the street gives me the stink eye enough as it is. If I started doing engines on them, they would probably burn the shop down.

As far as the crankshaft play, most roller bearing type crankshafts should have no discernible up and down (parallel to rod) movement at all. Rocking from side to side is a matter of side play between the rod and the crankshaft flywheel. You typically measure that with a feeler gauge and compare it to the manual specs.
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Last edited by MotorDoctor; 10-04-2013 at 07:21 PM.
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Old 10-04-2013, 09:00 PM
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Holy shit when did they go to overhead valves?




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Old 10-04-2013, 09:03 PM
bob_e95482 bob_e95482 is offline
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Last year I installed BMO's Velva Touch Evo cam Evo oiling lifters in my Shovelhead. These are 100% Made in America, and Dave is most helpful and fully stands behind his product.
As long as there is no up-and down movement in the rods, they should be fine. There is about .030" side play allowable with the inner rod..
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Old 10-05-2013, 11:10 AM
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Replacing rods and bearings on a Harley is not a DIY job. Takes a special jig and a hyd press. Considering what happened I would replace rods and bearings. Best farm that out or it could get expensive As far as lifters OEM are.just fine. While its down install adjustable push rods..

I have a shop manual with all the info if you are feeling lucky..

Also Shovelheads and EVOs were not created equal...I wouldn't use the specs interchangeably...
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Old 10-09-2013, 01:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MotorDoctor View Post
As far as the crankshaft play, most roller bearing type crankshafts should have no discernible up and down (parallel to rod) movement at all. Rocking from side to side is a matter of side play between the rod and the crankshaft flywheel. You typically measure that with a feeler gauge and compare it to the manual specs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bob_e95482 View Post
Last year I installed BMO's Velva Touch Evo cam Evo oiling lifters in my Shovelhead. These are 100% Made in America, and Dave is most helpful and fully stands behind his product.
As long as there is no up-and down movement in the rods, they should be fine. There is about .030" side play allowable with the inner rod..
Can not feel any up-down movement by hand.
Guessing the side-play is about .005
again it seems to have an excessive rock, I know if this was on a single rod I would not accept it.

After searching the net it appears alot of people have the same question and its getting to look normal for Harley's,.

Quote:
Originally Posted by moe1942 View Post
Replacing rods and bearings on a Harley is not a DIY job. Takes a special jig and a hyd press. Considering what happened I would replace rods and bearings. Best farm that out or it could get expensive As far as lifters OEM are.just fine. While its down install adjustable push rods..

I have a shop manual with all the info if you are feeling lucky..

Also Shovelheads and EVOs were not created equal...I wouldn't use the specs interchangeably...
I rebuilt about 3 cranks (not Harley cranks) and had good luck. in this case I'm not going to do it. the idea would be have the Harley dealer rebuild the crank if needed, its just that the current parts for the lifters, cam..etc.... is getting up around $600.

I only seen the push rods for a second and they looked adjustable.

Thank you for the replies, it's not mine so I don't know how its going to play out, maybe he can an get an honest opinion from a Harley dealer about the front rod.


===
Not the Harley in question but I guess Harley finally made some real junk.
Here is an interesting read on the Twin-Cam Harley's with cam chains.
http://www.jamesrussellpublishing.bi...buyharley.html
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Old 10-09-2013, 06:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GWIZ View Post
Can not feel any up-down movement by hand.
Guessing the side-play is about .005
again it seems to have an excessive rock, I know if this was on a single rod I would not accept it.

After searching the net it appears alot of people have the same question and its getting to look normal for Harley's,.



I rebuilt about 3 cranks (not Harley cranks) and had good luck. in this case I'm not going to do it. the idea would be have the Harley dealer rebuild the crank if needed, its just that the current parts for the lifters, cam..etc.... is getting up around $600.

I only seen the push rods for a second and they looked adjustable.

Thank you for the replies, it's not mine so I don't know how its going to play out, maybe he can an get an honest opinion from a Harley dealer about the front rod.


===
Not the Harley in question but I guess Harley finally made some real junk.
Here is an interesting read on the Twin-Cam Harley's with cam chains.
http://www.jamesrussellpublishing.bi...buyharley.html


My twin cam is converted to gear drive. Does away with chain and tensioner..
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  #8  
Old 10-09-2013, 04:09 PM
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I wouldn't redo my bottom end for that little play since the small end is at the end of a rather long lever. (Someone more motivated can do the trigonometry on that one.) I've done many Shovel and Evo top ends and what I look for is vertical rod play.

Feel any there, it gets a rod kit. I expect over 100K out of a Shovel or Evo bottom end if it got clean oil and wasn't thrashed.

I always pull the cam and lifters for inspection if I do a top end. Any discoloration of lifter roller or cam surface and they go in the trash if it's my bike.

A mile cam with more duration is nicer on the electric starter (or your leg) and gives considerable power boost over the stock emissions cam. I've not looked at current grinds but the various HD forums have plenty of info. I don't like high static compression on street Harleys (if I wanted to race I'd buy a Hayabusa) so I fit the lowest ratio piston available. Much nicer when kickstarting or lugging in top gear.
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