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  #21  
Old 11-13-2012, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Windy_Acres View Post
Mig or stick ? and if stick, what rod ? I will try it, Ive got two more to remove. BTW, thanks for the tip ! Ive been working by myself for many years now, so I dont get to pick up "tips" personally from working next to other guys. If I dont see it on the net, I typically dont see it.
It doesn't matter whatever is handy, I usually use stick 1/8" 7018, The idea is to heat it as much as possible without burning threw
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  #22  
Old 11-13-2012, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lu47Dan
Windy, a long shaft pencil grinder with a stone or a burr works too.
Cut into the bushing with the appropriate cutter for the material,a longitudinal groove just down to the OD of the bushing, then you can break the bushing out of the bore.
I have done this many times when I could not get a bushing to move out of the bore.
It can be slow work, but it does have its advantages.
Dan.
That reminded me, I have also used a sawzall wih a good blade and made relief cuts 120 degrees apart in the bore of the bushing. It works on softer bushings or blind holes on hyd pump end caps.

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  #23  
Old 11-13-2012, 05:22 PM
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Something to remember when doing this work is the duty cycle and age of the machine.
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The next two to come out, are only down about .015-.020 from stock,
, May or not apply here, not necessarily in this case but as a general thing,,, I don't always replace rebuild every part. Sometimes it makes sense but all that is a judgment call.

Lots of old machines are,,, 40 yrs old with 5 yrs of real hard service when it was new. I am a statistic guy. One of my tractors, first 20 yrs of its life wore out 3 engines, changes schemes, laid off some load and the last engine I put in 20 yrs ago is still working fine. We use it 10 or 15 % of what it did when new.

I should have got a pic of one a couple weeks ago, something came in, was sloppy and adding to stress from 35 or more years, at first a big job then we scored a piece of 1 1/6 or 1 1/8, don't recall now, anyway found this rod, tool a minute or 2 to sand the rust off with a 7 inch till it fit the worn hole. As I recall hit it about twice with a sander, wend from about 25% play in 2 parts, worn hole, worn pin to tight fit in about 5 mins,, ha score one.

As to the project at hand, might make a bush driver from plate and all thread if possible and I might clean the bore up good, at room temp, make a simple driver, put bush in freezer. Have done them that way, put a brg on a while back, threw the whole axle in the freeze, put brg in a zip lock and soaked in warm water, had it already to tap in but fell on. Room to spare and then some. Its easy and worth trying.
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  #24  
Old 11-16-2012, 01:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BurningMetal View Post
If you can get it in a press you can get a washer with the same outside diameter as your bushings grind a flat spot on each side and slide it through and turn it sideways into your slot. I don't know if you have enough room to do that or not. I have done this many times for bearings and bushings. It is a lot stronger than you think it would be.
+1 on this... Also, take a piece of pipe bigger than the bushing hole and a little bit longer than the bushing, weld a matching washer to it, insert a bolt through both and tighten and it will pull the bushing out and into the pipe.
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