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  #11  
Old 06-22-2019, 10:37 AM
Shade guy Shade guy is offline
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I thought I found the problem. The strobe light under the lift cage was full of water. I put another in and still no lift

I have 12.5 volts at terminals
T-1
T-2
T-3
T-10
T-12

and 3.95 volts at T-12

The only circuit board I have found is in the strobe light.
And it is corroded
There are 3 relays in the control box omron G4w-22123t-us-tv5 hp
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  #12  
Old 06-22-2019, 04:38 PM
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Ok,

I have some stuff to go do, I will come back later and see if I can get my thinking muscle going on this and go from there.

So you do have 2 of these with the same symptom of not raising unless you apply power to the hydraulic solenoids. Yes?

Scott
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  #13  
Old 06-22-2019, 04:51 PM
Shade guy Shade guy is offline
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Yes that is correct
I can only get one in the garage at a time
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  #14  
Old 06-22-2019, 06:32 PM
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GWIZ GWIZ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shade guy View Post
I'm running XP/Firefox and whatever does not know what "View" is.
can some one upload the pdf to SFT and also note its file size?
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  #15  
Old 06-22-2019, 06:41 PM
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2.29 mb
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  #16  
Old 06-22-2019, 06:58 PM
Shade guy Shade guy is offline
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Thanks digr I would have never figured out how to do that
The electrical schematic starts on page 67
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  #17  
Old 06-22-2019, 08:42 PM
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I'll take another stab at this.

Are the relays marked or are you able to determine relays by checking wire numbers on terminal connections?

T13 is your up control and you need some way to clip the meter leads on so you do not have to hold by hand. your on and up button need to be on or pressed at the same time, and you will get power to T13, this will fire r1 to provide power to r2 and the level sensor provides power to r2 and this is your signal from R2 that puts power to the lift valve.

Do you know how to put power to a relay and make it energize?

Your level sensor may have been damaged from being adjusted by the forklift internally. I would be tempted to try connecting the Red and white wire together and see if the lift worked. Which is essentially being put power from T1-T17 If you do this the controls should work like you are used to doing. The foot switches would be jumpered around and not work.

Be very careful it looks like you have a plug on the battery in the schematic, just be ready to unplug it if the lift does some shenanigans you are not expecting.

Scott
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  #18  
Old 07-06-2019, 03:19 PM
Shade guy Shade guy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scotts View Post
I'll take another stab at this.

Are the relays marked or are you able to determine relays by checking wire numbers on terminal connections?
No markings I think I know which one is r1



T13 is your up control and you need some way to clip the meter leads on so you do not have to hold by hand. your on and up button need to be on or pressed at the same time, and you will get power to T13, this will fire r1 to provide power to r2 and the level sensor provides power to r2 and this is your signal from R2 that puts power to the lift valve.

Do you know how to put power to a relay and make it energize?

no

Your level sensor may have been damaged from being adjusted by the forklift internally. I would be tempted to try connecting the Red and white wire together and see if the lift worked. Which is essentially being put power from T1-T17 If you do this the controls should work like you are used to doing. The foot switches would be jumpered around and not work.


Be very careful it looks like you have a plug on the battery in the schematic, just be ready to unplug it if the lift does some shenanigans you are not expecting.

Scott


Ok its been a while I have been busy on other stuff.
I got tired of trying to fix this one so I pushed the other one in the garage.
I got the other one to lift. It seems that one of the foot switches was stuck.
It is now lifting.

So Pushed the other one back in garage and removed both of the foot switches. as I pressed on them I could here a clicking in relay one.
It would click after I stopped pressing on the foot switch. It felt a little warm to the touch.
I point the temp gauge at it and it is 10 degrees warmer than the other 2 relays
I am going to order one and see if that is the problem Only place I can find them is China so it will be a couple of weeks.

Omron G4w-22123t-us-tv5 hp
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  #19  
Old 07-06-2019, 04:32 PM
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Thanks for the update, yes, sometimes it is best to let some things rest from time to time before we find a cliff to push them off of.

Looks like you have had some success with the other one. Got to celebrate that kind of stuff.

I'll post a screen shot of a data sheet for the relay you have and you can test it by supplying power to the coil to manually energize the relay. This works on all relays, you just have to have the correct voltage to the coil.

You will find the numbers 5 and 6 on the coil connection on the relay, the polarity does not matter. When you supply the correct voltage you should hear the relay click in and out when you connect and disconnect power. Just because it clicks does not mean it is good, the contacts it pulls together may be damaged and not make connection.

A relay is nothing more than a switch. Think of the light switch on the wall, the contacts inside the switch turn the light off and on, your finger operates the contacts, in a relay the coil replaces your finger. Put power to the coil and the relay closes turning on the light, ( or in this case power to the lift solenoid coil.) turn the power off to the coil and the light goes out, ( or it stops lifting)

Scott
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  #20  
Old 07-06-2019, 07:52 PM
Shade guy Shade guy is offline
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Okay thank you for taking the time to help.
I applied 12 volts to numbers 5 and 6 and hear a click
I get continuity between 1 and 3 and 2 and 4
I take this to mean the relay is working as it should.
I will test the other 2 relays tomorrow.
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