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#1
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![]() although I could prolly do the same thing with a square 5c collet and the indexing head... also I'm looking in to getting a R8 drill chuck the options are get the R8 with a J6 and go with a keyed chuck 1/2" or 5/8" or available is an R8 with keyless 3/8" chuck for a bit more in cost or the R8 keyless self tightening chuck as I don't have a chuck for the mill drill But also considered getting the R8 to mt3 Morse taper and have two or three drill chuck sizes………. Just not sure which will be the better way to go Here is the description of course you can see some Chinese spelling to it but it is an import set... Take all size 5C collets • Size: 1-3/4 x 1-3/4 x 3" • Ground 0.005" flatness, squareness and parallelism • It is a simple and effective shor run jig for paralle, square or Hex. • It also can be use for cross drllinjg at 60 , 90 or 120 degree Last edited by MetalWolf; 06-30-2018 at 02:32 PM. |
#2
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The 5C blocks that you’re showing work well, I would consider them a ‘light duty’ fixture for milling, or normal duty if they are being used on a surface grinder.
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#3
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All the above but
"Ground 0.005" flatness, squareness and parallelism " 0.005 if that is right, that is pretty crappy If there is a list sequence order. keyed chucks first. R8-MT yes all three (you also need all the drifts) Parallel set V blocks 5C H/V collet chuck keyless chuck Tilting table last 5C collet block set last ( I also need one)
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* * The factory of the future will have only two employees, a man and a dog. The man will be there to feed the dog. The dog will be there to keep the man from touching the equipment. ~Warren G. Bennis |
#4
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I have and use quite often, the 5C blocks, a great asset to a home shop.
I’m must be one of the few people, who would not buy or own a keyless chuck, or to be truthful, buy another, I have an Albrecht. Either it loosens during operation, or locks up where you need a pipe wrench to open it back up.
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#5
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![]() Quote:
5C H/V collet chuck 5C dividing head Quote:
got a link to any others more suitable? Quote:
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#6
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I think your rite on that I've also been told the same thing today by my two buddies who work in specialty machine shops they are constantly fighting with the keyless chucks but did say might be fine for someone like me who won't use them but once or twice a month or on a daily basis ![]() ![]() |
#7
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I'm thinking of what I really use most, and what the bucks should be spent on.
End mills...………..you CANNOT have enough end mills on hand. Annular cutters...……...same same Drill bits...…...the big sets..... full letter,#, and fractional ones (must have for quality tapping) Taps...…..same same And I'm talking redundancy REDUNDANCY on this stuff.....many in the same sizes that you use often, and at least double the ones you don't THINK you need. Don't piss your money away on the Chinese tool holders either. Toolmex/Bison costs up front, but they're one time buys. Quality steel, precise machining, and GOOD SET SCREWS. You can mess up more cutting tools if they aren't held in a good holder. |
#8
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What else???????????????????
Edge finders.....standard type, and the old style wiggler. Starrett only (and US made if you can still find them). Telescoping bore gages. The old standby indirect measurements are still good if you use them correctly. You can throw a lot of money away on the endless varieties of internal mic's. Allen wrenches (sounds silly, I know ![]() |
#9
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I've considered a small tilting table, but I simply don't have the head room to use one. Spindle to table clearance is precious.
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#10
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Face mills...…….Far as I'm concerned, the jury is still out on those.
I don't have the power to run anything bigger than 2" max. AND I CRINGE WHEN I HEAR THE INSERTS SLAM INTO THE STEEL. I can just visualize what it's doing to the drive splines on the spindle. I stick to a 4 flute 3/4 end mill for facing. Run it fast with coolant, and it's fairly smooth. Not a pretty surface, but it's flat. My shit ain't goin' to the Louvre ![]() I love YouTube how-to's. They're always machining aluminum ![]() |
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