Morton buildings

[OldRedFord]

Im responsible for the Home Depot bags. I forgot to get caps. That's fixed now though.


Is there a minimum spacing between a drain line and supply line? The only thing I can find is that if the drain line doesn't meet a certain standard there has to be a separation of 5' minimum.


Where the drain and supply lines pass through the footing do they need to be sleeved?

[greywynd]

Not sure what code is, but up here in frost land, always a good idea to sleeve anything you can passing through concrete.

The house here has conduit pulling apart because a sidewalk settled after pouring, and no sleeve to allow for movement.


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[OldRedFord]

I need vents for the shower and toilet.

Had a actual licensed plumber I know look at some pictures I took.

Attached is a rough sketch of the bathroom and laundry room. Only change is the utility sink is moved directly across from where I have it drawn.

I'm open to suggestions to get the venting run properly. My plumber friend was going to go look at it one evening this week but so far I'm at work after sundown.

[terry lingle]

Get a copy of all the relevant codes for your state and read them that way you know what to expect and won't end up with a building full of chrome plated muffler bearings and turbo encabulators.
Seriously Tim it is very much to your advantage to know the local rules before they become issues.

[OldRedFord]

Originally Posted by terry lingle

Get a copy of all the relevant codes for your state and read them that way you know what to expect and won't end up with a building full of chrome plated muffler bearings and turbo encabulators.
Seriously Tim it is very much to your advantage to know the local rules before they become issues.

I already have the books on the plumbing and electrical codes that I am under. My only hangup is having proper very ting for the toilet and shower.

[Lu47Dan]

Tim, whatever size your main drain line is is the smallest your main vent line can be. You can go bigger but not smaller.
Any 90° fitting laying on it's side underground (or elsewhere) needs to be a long radius fitting. This includes sanitary tees, elbows, and associated fittings.
You can use wye's and 45's instead of 90's (etc.). Anywhere you make a change in direction of more than 45°, underground, you must install a clean out . Use the KISS principal in laying out your drains.
Your vent stack should be within 10' of the toilet. The vent on the utility tub, will have to be tied back into the main vent stack. Your washer drain needs a vent also. But it would have to be tied back to the main stack also.
Your toilet soil pipe should be no smaller than 3" with no more then 1/4" of fall per foot of run. The soil pipe for the washer and utility tub drains(underground) can be no smaller than 2" with 1/8" - 1/4" of fall per foot of run. Tie them into the 3" soil pipe.
Dan.

[OldRedFord]

The 10 feet between the vent stack and toilet, is that measured by pipe distance?

[Lu47Dan]

Yes and no....
There is s long drawn out formula that includes fitting run in it, but use ten feet as a rule of thumb.
Start your layout on a piece of paper. Ideally you want the air to follow the water and waste down the pipe. Not flowing over the top of it to get behind it. So your main vent should be behind the toilet fittings. Offset the main drain line to the side of the toilet's position, use a wye and 45°(or a long radius sanitary tee) to form it's branch. Then pipe out of the "top" hub of the tee to where you want the vent, 90°el up and out of the ground. You want the vent inside the wall, once you start to build the wall, you will discover a 3"vent stack requires a 2 X 6 wall.
More later got to head to work.
Dan

[Lu47Dan]

Now back to it.
One other thing about the underground piping, the only thing that needs a trap is floor drains. The toilet has a built in trap, the washer drains trap can be in the wall. And the utility tubs trap is under the sink.
Now to the vents.....
Stub the riser above grade about 3 feet. Pour your floor, checking on the stubs for plumb. Your stub ups should be on the centerline of the wall. Two inch pipe does not give you much room for error, so be vigilant in getting the stub ups plumb, in position and keeping them plumb while pouring the concrete. Concrete can push piping around without you even noticing it.
Once you have the floors done, you can cut the stubs off about a foot high. Lay out and stud your walls out. Than you can run the rest of the plumbing fixture fittings and vent piping. The vent piping is fairly straight forward. Except the flow direction on the fittings is reversed. In other words, the curve of a sanitary tee is point up not down. Tie all the vents back to the main vent stack.
Dan.

[OldRedFord]

So it might be easier for me to swap the locations of the bathroom and laundry room around then. Basically put the toilet almost where the main vent stack is right now. Shower to one side of the toilet.