Lifting Mildred's Spirits - Page 6

cutter · #51 05-27-2014, 10:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GWIZ

I thought it was good enough, anyway.

Maybe I'm being like those guys who just can wait to slap paint on an old machine as thought looking good is the same as being good. The Dupont overhaul.

My real concern is the little gearbox. That Bison was a very expensive little motor when it was new. I see used ones listed on ebay now for as much as $500 and I would really hate to cause it to eat itself for lack of not trying to make it right.

Quote:

Originally Posted by GWIZ

Your chain looks like it has stiff spots, I would soak my motorcycle chains in used motor oil for a day or two and work them lose it also allowed for the oil to soak in.

I think it looks stiff too, G but I have handled it enough to test every link & didn't detect any bad ones.
But it is an old chain and I might should try another piece.

Quote:

Originally Posted by GWIZ

For your consideration, you maybe able to secure one side of the motor mount with bolts and use studs for the other side for clamping the head.
It all depends on the casting, in the drawing is a spherical washer that can makeup for some misalignment.

I'm not sure I understand what you're driving at there.

Quote:

Originally Posted by GWIZ

I try to be cautious with import cast-iron.
Good head bolts don't require alot of torque, I tighten my head down around 18 ft-lb.

I don't torque these bolts very tight either, nor see any need to.
One odd thing I discovered is that the threads on the two bolts are slightly different from each other. They look the same but the nuts will not interchange. Very odd.

Ironman · #52 05-27-2014, 11:25 PM

Quote:

I think it looks stiff too, G but I have handled it enough to test every link & didn't detect any bad ones.
But it is an old chain and I might should try another piece

An old chain on a new sprocket is a bad recipe. The chain is probably stretched a little, and at one point is so out of sync on the teeth that one roller has to snap down from the tooth it is riding up on.

GWIZ · #53 05-28-2014, 04:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cutter

I'm not sure I understand what you're driving at there.

One odd thing I discovered is that the threads on the two bolts are slightly different from each other. They look the same but the nuts will not interchange. Very odd.

Sounds like you maybe starting to have the same problems I had with my head bolts. the threads stretched. mine got so bad the nut bind and stop around the 1/2" mark even though there was a full inch of threads to go. Assuming you still have the original bolts, every once in a while you should check if the nuts will screw past an inch or more of threads.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cutter

. appears to be caused by the slop in the mount; I had to design some slack into those bored out hex bars to be able to maneuver the bolts through them and then it's compounded by the slop in the bolt holes in the head casting.

This allows the motor mount to jerk up slightly - less than 1/8" - when the head goes down and then jerk back down when it reverses.

In order to secure the mount from moving you have to do away with the two through head bolts.

1) Your mount
Replace the two hex spacers with ones that are threaded completely through like coupling nuts,
This will allow you to tighten the motor mount to the head casing on the "one side" with bolts (so the motor mount does not slop around).

Studs with nuts on the opposite will allow you too still clamp or un-clamp the head....

cutter · #54 05-29-2014, 10:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GWIZ

In order to secure the mount from moving you have to do away with the two through head bolts.

I believe the problem is this day resolved.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ironman

An old chain on a new sprocket is a bad recipe. The chain is probably stretched a little, and at one point is so out of sync on the teeth that one roller has to snap down from the tooth it is riding up on.

Wll Gerry, I knew that - sort of - but I didn't have any new #50 chain to compare and the old chain didn't seem that worn to me. All I had really done was observe how nicely it conformed to the larger sprocket, which I realize now actually tells me nothing.
But I had come to believe that it must be the chain because I think the alignment issues have been sufficiently tweaked so it must be the chain.

So Wilson & I loaded up late this afternoon & sashayed over to Tractor Supply for dog chewies and roller chain.
Damned if they weren't sold out of chewies. Their sense of civic responsibility is highly questionable.

But Wilson loves to go shopping at Tractor Supply anyway so he enjoyed the extended sniffing exercise.

They did have a couple of 10ft rolls of new Chinese chain & a package of master links, which it turns out I didn't need since they packed one with the greasy chain.

1. showing the ends at the start

2. about ten links along the way. You can see it beginning to creep, yes?

3. by the time we reach about 20 links, the old chain has gain half a link.

4. by the time we get to the required length, we have almost a full link difference. And this is lying slack, with no load to stretch it.

5. And finally, since this is Show & Tell for Dave Lee and 1911man too, here are a couple of frozen chilicubes to reinforce the suggestion.