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  #11  
Old 01-23-2019, 07:49 PM
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Not all finished yet but functional. Wires are out of the way but still not sure how I want to secure them. After the epoxy set I soldered and put on shrink tube. Light is very good now, even for a blind guy. The on/off switch is in the bottom of the forward/reverse switch box.

Next upgrade will be a Z axis DRO. Likely get a 2 channel for the X and Y. later on. Also still contemplating a power unit for raising and lowering the head. Maybe hospital bed motor Keith gave me might work????
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  #12  
Old 01-23-2019, 08:46 PM
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That looks great Chriss Bang good you say?
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  #13  
Old 01-23-2019, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by milomilo View Post
Also still contemplating a power unit for raising and lowering the head. Maybe hospital bed motor Keith gave me might work????
Maybe. You might remember I used an actuator motor for the table on my old Clausing drill press?
But for Mildred I really prefer the 90v dc setup because it's variable speed and can be started "softly".
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Old 01-23-2019, 10:30 PM
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That looks great Chriss Bang good you say?
You can get then there, but I think I got mine through Amazon. Just get one slightly larger ID than your quill diameter. The magnets seem to work real well. Removable in case you want to disassemble the quill some time. I think got 2 for 6 or 7 bucks. Walter got one for his mill but it creates shadows because it stays up when his quill goes down. Not sure if I got the terminology right there.

Seems like mine was for a BMW, but not sure. Try this link.
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Last edited by milomilo; 01-23-2019 at 10:35 PM.
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  #15  
Old 01-23-2019, 11:00 PM
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Maybe. You might remember I used an actuator motor for the table on my old Clausing drill press?
But for Mildred I really prefer the 90v dc setup because it's variable speed and can be started "softly".
I did have that in my memory. At least whats left of my memory. The head on this mill is about 150#. so similar in weight. I will have to look for the motor Keith gave me and see what it is capable of. Might just work in a sort of guide to keep it in line, like you did on your mill.
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Old 01-24-2019, 12:36 AM
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I did have that in my memory. At least whats left of my memory. The head on this mill is about 150#. so similar in weight. I will have to look for the motor Keith gave me and see what it is capable of. Might just work in a sort of guide to keep it in line, like you did on your mill.
The difference is not a matter of weight but of torque. The head on my mill requires a lot more force to raise than the table on the Clausing. I'm pretty sure that has to do with the respective gearing.
Besides that, most actuator motors don't come with much in the way of mounting tabs/bolt holes for fastening them securely. The one I used on the Clausing had one lonely bolt tab. I got a way with it on the drill press but I would have thought long & hard before I tried that on Mildred.
Maybe your actuator is designed better.

Those little Bison gearmotors are really ideal for this kind of thing but unless you happen to get as lucky as I did, they are pricey. I'd almost be willing to bet you run across some sources in your auction habit. If you can get past that, then the next hurdle for most people is the dc controller and the idea of taking on the "90v DC hurdle" because too many people seem to think that's something out of their comfort zone. They really are not complicated and I'm pretty sure Walter is far better equipped than I am to advise you.
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  #17  
Old 02-15-2019, 12:35 PM
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As always, I’m late to the party, that’s a nice idea. I’ve bought quite a few items from Bang Good, I guess I lucky they do not sell anything 22 LR related. All of the items, I’ve gotten from Bang Good have been very usable, maybe a little rough looking, but fully funstional.
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  #18  
Old 02-15-2019, 01:28 PM
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As always, I’m late to the party, that’s a nice idea. I’ve bought quite a few items from Bang Good, I guess I lucky they do not sell anything 22 LR related. All of the items, I’ve gotten from Bang Good have been very usable, maybe a little rough looking, but fully funstional.
It works very well. Like most things it has it drawbacks. I used 4 little neodymium magnets to attach it. The magnets attract chips. I have to remove it after a few hours use and brush off the chips. Considering using the double sided adhesive ring it came with instead of the magnets.
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  #19  
Old Yesterday, 12:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milomilo View Post
It works very well. Like most things it has it drawbacks. I used 4 little neodymium magnets to attach it. The magnets attract chips. I have to remove it after a few hours use and brush off the chips. Considering using the double sided adhesive ring it came with instead of the magnets.
So the magnet thing was a good idea but maybe not so much where it's going to collect chips especially up around the spindle and bearings... I would and did think it was the way to go for flexibility, but did not think that far ahead of my self in that it would attract the chips.
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  #20  
Old Yesterday, 08:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milomilo View Post
It works very well. Like most things it has it drawbacks. I used 4 little neodymium magnets to attach it. The magnets attract chips. I have to remove it after a few hours use and brush off the chips. Considering using the double sided adhesive ring it came with instead of the magnets.
Chris, I built one for a friend who has a Bridgeport mill, it is a little bigger then my "M", but smaller than a regular Bridgeport mill.
He had a bunch of LED's from some product that they built. These were ones that failed testing. Some had a dead led or other problems. He wanted to use them, but lacked the skills to replace the dead ones with good ones, plus no lathe to turn the mounting ring.
I made the ring fit up on the head casting, around the quill instead of around the spindle one the end of the quill. Being a knee mill you raise the knee instead of extending the quill.
His mill has a problem with the quill and side loading from the factory so the light works well in that position.
Might cast shadows with the quill extended.
Dan.
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