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  #51  
Old 01-16-2019, 01:07 AM
JRock1000 JRock1000 is offline
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Thanks for the photo!
In the manuals, there is a mention of the special drawbar adapter wrench.
I guess that's what it's all about.

I'm not even worried about the drawbar At this point.
It is what it is.
I'll just turn some shoulder adapters for the CAT40 toolholders.
Turns out my ceiling is too low to pull the drawbar out of the top anyway

Mine is a little older (58 I think).
The DynaDrive has a tube circuit and an AC motor.
I can hear part of it running when I power up (Might be the Electronic Clutch system?) but when I turn the knob to start, the light goes out and nothing happens (I think the contactor in the electric box clicks out).
I've replaced the tubes (the easy fix) but that didn't do anything.
Think I'll have to pull out the DynaDrive motor and clutch to see what can be seen.
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  #52  
Old 02-24-2019, 08:37 PM
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Today I picked up a gallon of Evap-O-Rust at the local parts store. After messing around online I see I could have saved $10 and bought it on Amazon and had free shipping.

Anyway...

These collets fit a holder that fits the quick change adapter on my Gorton mill.

First they took a quick dip in Purple Power and got a light scrub with a stainless brush.

Dried and then into the Evap-O-Rust for a hour. I need a good way to scrub out the bores of the collets but so far I'm happy. I'm about half way through the 50 collets I have.

Picture #2 is a before and after of the dunk in Purple Power.
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  #53  
Old 02-24-2019, 08:51 PM
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milomilo milomilo is offline
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12v battery charger and electrolysis will remove the rust, no damage to the steel. You could also run them through a soft buffer wheel or scotchbrite for the outside.
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  #54  
Old 02-25-2019, 01:15 AM
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Brass bore brushes come in different sizes, and places like mcmaster-carr will have different kinds of brushes as well.


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  #55  
Old 02-25-2019, 02:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milomilo View Post
12v battery charger and electrolysis will remove the rust, no damage to the steel. You could also run them through a soft buffer wheel or scotchbrite for the outside.
Not a very practical use of the process for several reasons.
You'd have to attach a ground wire to each piece, the area covered by the clamp wouldn't clean very well, not to mention the tedium of running a wire to 10 or 20 or 30 pieces at a time; all pieces would need to be isolated from the others. The inside of the collets would tend to not clean as well as the outside and there tends to be a dark coating left in place of the rust unless it is thoroughly removed very quickly, so you're almost back to square one on this job.
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  #56  
Old 02-25-2019, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldRedFord View Post
Today I picked up a gallon of Evap-O-Rust at the local parts store. After messing around online I see I could have saved $10 and bought it on Amazon and had free shipping.

Anyway...

These collets fit a holder that fits the quick change adapter on my Gorton mill.

First they took a quick dip in Purple Power and got a light scrub with a stainless brush.

Dried and then into the Evap-O-Rust for a hour. I need a good way to scrub out the bores of the collets but so far I'm happy. I'm about half way through the 50 collets I have.

Picture #2 is a before and after of the dunk in Purple Power.
How are you buying the Purple Power? by the gallon jug? or 5-gallon pail?
no matter what they say, gallon jugs are diluted crap! get it in the industrial 5-gallon pail leave the collets overnight then brush out and wash off.
Following after, Spraying them down with PB blast and let them sit for a few hours and then wipe down and blow off.
You prolly don't even need the Evap-O-Rust.
As they appear now, they look like they have been abrasive media blasted.

Oh, and if you do use the industrial dilutable 5-gallon pail, use undiluted and Use some dish gloves or nitrile gloves it will mess your hands up very quickly.
5-gallon pail makes 50/50 mix to 25 gallons one-gallon jug would be equivalent to a dilution of 5 gallons to 50-gallon mix.
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Last edited by MetalWolf; 02-25-2019 at 09:50 AM.
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  #57  
Old 02-25-2019, 08:12 PM
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I got the Purple Power in the spray bottle size.

I git all 50 some odd collets cleaned up. Half if them went straight into the Evap-O-Rust with no prep and soaked for 19 hours.

Next it's onto the 30 various 40 taper tool holders I have and the handful of Universal Engineering Kwick Change holders.
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  #58  
Old 02-25-2019, 09:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldRedFord View Post
I got the Purple Power in the spray bottle size.

I git all 50 some odd collets cleaned up. Half if them went straight into the Evap-O-Rust with no prep and soaked for 19 hours.

Next it's onto the 30 various 40 taper tool holders I have and the handful of Universal Engineering Kwick Change holders.
I was just merely making a suggestion to get the bucket. of "i.e. Industrial strength" as it will remove rust, and you can use it straight "i.e. full strength" in the bucket to soak your parts in. It will also remove most paint except for baked on enamel and powder coatings but will remove the rust.

Just don't leave any aluminum parts overnight it will blacken and stain them.

there is a huge gap between the spray bottle and the gallon jugs sold.
"i.e. already diluted to a much lesser strength"

There is another one I use I have to look at the pail it is one used for cleaning fracking tanks. but is very caustic. It is a 5 gallon can as well and dilutes to make 55 gallons but you can't leave it in like a general parts washer as it will eat the powder coating and the metal tank even after maximum dilution.

I suggest these two cleaners. because I am lazy and don't like to work hard at cleaning parts period so for me the quicker the better. it eats rust, paint. enamel and backed on carbon grease with ease. If you or anyone is interested in future use of this one, I will take the time to dig out the pail out of storage and post the MFG and name of the product.

I have taken old tractors I need to repaint doused it with this stuff and let it sit for two to three hours and it has removed all the grit, grease, and paint with a 1300psi pressure washer if you want to call that pressure...
plus neither one is flammable and both state they are bio-degradable.
but eh I'mm not sure that is true though.
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  #59  
Old 02-25-2019, 09:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MetalWolf View Post
I was just merely making a suggestion to get the bucket. of "i.e. Industrial strength" as it will remove rust, and you can use it straight "i.e. full strength" in the bucket to soak your parts in. It will also remove most paint except for baked on enamel and powder coatings but will remove the rust.



Just don't leave any aluminum parts overnight it will blacken and stain them.



there is a huge gap between the spray bottle and the gallon jugs sold.

"i.e. already diluted to a much lesser strength"



There is another one I use I have to look at the pail it is one used for cleaning fracking tanks. but is very caustic. It is a 5 gallon can as well and dilutes to make 55 gallons but you can't leave it in like a general parts washer as it will eat the powder coating and the metal tank even after maximum dilution.



I suggest these two cleaners. because I am lazy and don't like to work hard at cleaning parts period so for me the quicker the better. it eats rust, paint. enamel and backed on carbon grease with ease. If you or anyone is interested in future use of this one, I will take the time to dig out the pail out of storage and post the MFG and name of the product.



I have taken old tractors I need to repaint doused it with this stuff and let it sit for two to three hours and it has removed all the grit, grease, and paint with a 1300psi pressure washer if you want to call that pressure...

plus neither one is flammable and both state they are bio-degradable.

but eh I'mm not sure that is true though.


I’d be interested in knowing that other cleaner.


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  #60  
Old 02-25-2019, 10:17 PM
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I’d be interested in knowing that other cleaner.


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OK, No problem. I will look at it tomorrow and let you know.
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