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Old 08-09-2011, 09:26 AM
derekpfeiffer derekpfeiffer is offline
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Default Building a tank...

I have a customer that I'm building a 23"x23"x48" hydraulic fluid tank for. I had a friend of mine who owns his own shop shear and break all the 3/16" sheet metal for it. (the old one flexed too much and cracked out so my customer wanted this one VERY heavy built to prevent it from happening again) The friend of mine that sheared/broke the metal for it claims that if you use moongone (tri-mix) gas instead of C25 and/or use a standard weaving pattern to weld it...it'll leak? I'm going to use C25 since that's what I have on my welder right now anyways, but I've built several tanks and never had leaking problems. Anyone have any experience with what he's telling me about??

I'm building the tank out of 4 peices one that's a 48'' wide "U" and then two 23x23 end caps and one 23x48 top peice. This is for two reasons since I know I could build it out of two "U's" it'll makes it easier to cut out and insall all the bungs as well as being able to weld the two end caps on both sides. That way the only peice that's single welded will be the top where there won't be constant fluid against (just splashing from going accross the feild).

Thanks for any insight...I'll be starting on it tonight after work.
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  #2  
Old 08-09-2011, 11:48 AM
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Derek,
I don't see anything wrong with your design.
But, I have a couple of questions...

Is the tank for transferring/hauling the hydraulic fluid?

Do you need to install baffles to reduce the side loading as it goes across the field?

If it is a tank reservoir, be sure to place your pickup tube away from the bottom of the tank to keep sludge buildup out of the fluid.

If I remember correctly... some hydraulic tank reservoirs has the return plumbed into the tank so it will be below the normal fluid level. This reduces foaming.

Also, if it is a hydraulic tank reservoir... separate the pickup tube and the return as far apart as possible.
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Old 08-09-2011, 12:13 PM
derekpfeiffer derekpfeiffer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CEC View Post
Derek,
I don't see anything wrong with your design.
But, I have a couple of questions...

Is the tank for transferring/hauling the hydraulic fluid?

Do you need to install baffles to reduce the side loading as it goes across the field?

If it is a tank reservoir, be sure to place your pickup tube away from the bottom of the tank to keep sludge buildup out of the fluid.

If I remember correctly... some hydraulic tank reservoirs has the return plumbed into the tank so it will be below the normal fluid level. This reduces foaming.

Also, if it is a hydraulic tank reservoir... separate the pickup tube and the return as far apart as possible.
Yes the tank is a reservoir. My thought is that with 3/16" plate it shouldn't need a baffle? Also the hydraulic fluid won't be used unless the machine is stopped. My hands are tied as to where all the bungs go, since they want it to match the previous one so they won't have to replumb anything.

Thanks for the info!!
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  #4  
Old 08-09-2011, 12:28 PM
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Derek, Marty Comstock wrote a nice little tutorial for me back when I was building the little tank for the forksnatch.
There is a good bit of discussion in the thread too.
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Old 08-09-2011, 04:03 PM
derekpfeiffer derekpfeiffer is offline
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Thanks Cutter!!

Noticed he said he always uses fluxcore or arc...I'm still just baffled with what is wrong with MIG welding?? and why avoid welding the inside seams of the tank if I clean it well before putting the top on??

Anyone have any ideas??

Thanks,
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  #6  
Old 08-09-2011, 04:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derekpfeiffer View Post
I have a customer that I'm building a 23"x23"x48" hydraulic fluid tank for. I had a friend of mine who owns his own shop shear and break all the 3/16" sheet metal for it. (the old one flexed too much and cracked out so my customer wanted this one VERY heavy built to prevent it from happening again) The friend of mine that sheared/broke the metal for it claims that if you use moongone (tri-mix) gas instead of C25 and/or use a standard weaving pattern to weld it...it'll leak? I'm going to use C25 since that's what I have on my welder right now anyways, but I've built several tanks and never had leaking problems. Anyone have any experience with what he's telling me about??

I'm building the tank out of 4 peices one that's a 48'' wide "U" and then two 23x23 end caps and one 23x48 top peice. This is for two reasons since I know I could build it out of two "U's" it'll makes it easier to cut out and insall all the bungs as well as being able to weld the two end caps on both sides. That way the only peice that's single welded will be the top where there won't be constant fluid against (just splashing from going accross the feild).

Thanks for any insight...I'll be starting on it tonight after work.
C25 if fine, tri-mix snake oil ain't worth the $$$.

Quote:
Originally Posted by derekpfeiffer View Post
Yes the tank is a reservoir. My thought is that with 3/16" plate it shouldn't need a baffle? Also the hydraulic fluid won't be used unless the machine is stopped. My hands are tied as to where all the bungs go, since they want it to match the previous one so they won't have to replumb anything.

Thanks for the info!!
You should put a baffle in it is to prevent the oil from sloshing in the tank, whether it is in use or not the momentum could still add to instability.

Quote:
Originally Posted by derekpfeiffer View Post
Thanks Cutter!!

Noticed he said he always uses fluxcore or arc...I'm still just baffled with what is wrong with MIG welding?? and why avoid welding the inside seams of the tank if I clean it well before putting the top on??

Anyone have any ideas??

Thanks,
Nothing wrong with GMAW weld tanks.
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  #7  
Old 08-09-2011, 05:07 PM
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I assumed that Marty was trying to avoid cold arc starts that c25 is notorious for, especially with lame-assed once a month weldors like me.

I really did have maybe half a dozen pinhole leaks that I had to find with a (very low) pressure soapy water test & fix. But I am pleased to say it hasn't leaked since.

I agree that you need a baffle, not only to prevent sloshing but position the baffle so that it prevents the return oil from being sucked directly back into the pump. Gives it a little more opportunity to cool & helps keep the pool stirred up a bit.
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Old 08-09-2011, 06:01 PM
derekpfeiffer derekpfeiffer is offline
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Thanks Ron and cutter!!!! got 3 of the bungs welded in and hope to have it taking shape before calling it a day. I'll call up tomorrow about getting a baffle cut for it! You guys have any opinions on welding the inside?

Thanks again!
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  #9  
Old 08-09-2011, 08:20 PM
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Never weld on the inside - except for the baffle.
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  #10  
Old 08-09-2011, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cutter View Post
Never weld on the inside - except for the baffle.
And just enough short beads to keep it in place to do it's job.
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