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Old 11-13-2007, 10:00 PM
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Default Gasket scrapers

What do you use for a gasket scraper?

I spent the good share of today removing 4, 4'' ring gaskets off of pipe flanges. Normally we coat the gaskets with silver never-sieze, then next year the just about fall off, the customer had coated the gasket with contact cement, with a year and 340 degrees steam, the gaskets baked into the flange surface. Over the years I found the best gasket scraper is a good wood chisel, you able to put a good edge on it and they are easily resharpened. Even with a sharp chisel, it took hours to remove the gaskets. This is on an open gas line, couldn't use a 4 1/2" grinder and a wire wheel, harse chemicals aren't allow in the building, so no gasket remover.

Jack
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Old 11-13-2007, 11:19 PM
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Well what i use on our steam flanges is a triagular cutter of the lathe tool holder. I cut a large srew driver off drilled and taped it on the end to hold the lathe cutter, it works awsome and still hasent dulled, not to mention that it gets in tight spaces.
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Old 11-14-2007, 05:56 AM
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We used to use a pneumatic gasket scraper on our steam line flanged joints. It's a small 6" long pneumatic hammer about 1-1/2" in diameter that you can put different size blades in it. It fit into some pretty tight spaces and made short work of cleaning the flanges up. http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/p-11...per-1750k.aspx The one we used was a snap-on and it was a little bit more compact that this one.
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Old 11-14-2007, 06:12 PM
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I have a craftsman scraper...no better than a wood chisel though.

what about roloc discs? is that a danger around gas?
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Old 11-14-2007, 06:38 PM
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I use the 3M roloc's....work really nice for head gaskets jobs.
Mike
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Old 11-14-2007, 10:31 PM
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"What do you use for a gasket scraper?"

Well, I generally use a gasket scraper.

Gas line, you can use a torch, just stand back when you first ignite it as it will huff, then burn 'em off. Seriously.
Or, try an air chisel with a scraper blade.
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Old 11-14-2007, 10:46 PM
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i also use a wood chisel,and a gasket scraper.
but heres something i found by accident,WD-40 works good at loosening gaskets,not a remover by any means,but it does loosen them up.
Randy
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Old 11-15-2007, 06:22 AM
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Using old shop files make great gasket scrapers and hold an edge well. Cut off the back tang and square that area up, add a bevel and sharpen/hone to your liking and strike the edge with another file and again with fine sandpaper wet.

Not really sure if this is common knowledge or not, but if some care is not taken when you put an edge on your scraper, you may find that your taking off little slivers of that surface your trying to remove the gasket from or that your cutting end is not true and clean, preventing gouges or cuts into your metal surfaces.

I have no idea where or when or from whom I was shown how to do this, so I'll just say, 'someone smarter than me'. lol

In the pic, and after you put a sharp edge on the nose of your scraper, old files etc., I take the scraper, stand it up vertical and draw it's sharp edge a few times across a clean/new fine cut file. Then draw it across wet sandpaper of say 600 grit several times. Then touch both the back and wedge face at that area to clean up any irregularities from the file or sharpening/honeing.

They sure do cut like the dickens, but not remove any metal if you hold the scraper at it's best angle for gasket removal.

Just thought I'd add this for shiz's and griggles.
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Old 11-15-2007, 10:52 PM
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I use a blue point (snap-on's japanese division) gasket scraper, nice comfortable soft rubber handle with a replaceable carbide blade that has 3 edges. Works great for doing water pump jobs. I think I paid the slip-off man about $25-28 for it. I also use a napa cheapy razor blade holder thats basically on a screwdriver handle, and a couple of different size razor blade paint scrapers from various hardware stores, and a capped head (hammerable) paint scraper for the toughest stuff.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 84ZMike View Post
I use the 3M roloc's....work really nice for head gaskets jobs.
Mike

Ugh. I sure hope you are kidding. Rolocs dump a ton of aluminum oxide into the engine as they wear, which wreaks all sorts of hell on bearings, oil pumps, etc. Not to mention, they make it incredibly easy to ruin the flatness of a head surface. A far better option for knocking the crap off a block is to use a pnumatic board sander with the "laminated" sandpaper one can buy that sheds very little abrasive into the job.
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Old 11-18-2007, 05:06 AM
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Quote:
Rolocs dump a ton of aluminum oxide into the engine as they wear
These disc's also shed the material(wearing down), as they wear, that allows them to cut/abrade. Like pouring sand in an engine, only finer.
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