Bearing help

[Shade Tree Welder]

Originally Posted by arizonian

Since the race has shrunk a little bit, it won't be as tight in the bore as it was originally. Sooner or later, the race is going to start slipping/spinning in the bore and cutting will cease. Will it mar the bore? Will it be thin enough to deform and get pried out? Will all progress come to a halt? Will Timmy finally listen to his elders? Tune in tomorrow for the conclusion of As The Bearing Spins.

More popcorn, please.

LMFAO!!!

Now where did I put the windex...

[astronut]

I wonder if Tim took a logging chain and welded one end to the race and attached the other end to his dozer if he could pull it out with said dozer? Oh wait, never mind, I believe said dozer is still stuck!

[Shade Tree Welder]

Originally Posted by astronut

I wonder if Tim took a logging chain and welded one end to the race and attached the other end to his dozer if he could pull it out with said dozer? Oh wait, never mind, I believe said dozer is still stuck!

I am going to need to order more windex...

[Shade Tree Welder]

So how long before you start calling the dozer yard art?

[midmosandblasting]

Wood art ,I don't see and yard yet .

[mccutter]

(1) For the purposes of the exercise, I would have cleaned the bearings and races enough to get the trade numbers off of them.
(2) Then I would have polished the brinnelling out of the race and re-packed the bearings with grease and put it back together.
(3) IF the bearings were junk and/or seized or races overheated (blue), THEN I would worry about replacing them. They would probably have tapped right out with a taper drift working around the outside of the visible lip (in the video).

Unfortunately, you created a headache for yourself by not "seeing" the edges of the races or "hearing" what the smart people here told you to do (or not do)... I can't tell if you welded the race to the spacer or shoulder of the pulley!

When I saw the races in the pulley bore, this is the tool that immediately sprang to mind. That and a hammer...

[Shade Tree Welder]

Stop it, sound reasoning and experience are not allowed in any of Timmy's threads...

Originally Posted by mccutter

(1) For the purposes of the exercise, I would have cleaned the bearings and races enough to get the trade numbers off of them.
(2) Then I would have polished the brinnelling out of the race and re-packed the bearings with grease and put it back together.
(3) IF the bearings were junk and/or seized or races overheated (blue), THEN I would worry about replacing them. They would probably have tapped right out with a taper drift working around the outside of the visible lip (in the video).

Unfortunately, you created a headache for yourself by not "seeing" the edges of the races or "hearing" what the smart people here told you to do (or not do)... I can't tell if you welded the race to the spacer or shoulder of the pulley!

When I saw the races in the pulley bore, this is the tool that immediately sprang to mind. That and a hammer...

[OldRedFord]

There was some machining done and I successfully removed one side. The non welded side.


Going to have to aneal the other side to be able to machine it. Or use a die grinder to remove the weld and then try boring out the race just like I did with the other side.

[Shade Tree Welder]

Originally Posted by OldRedFord

There was some machining done and I successfully removed one side. The non welded side.


Going to have to aneal the other side to be able to machine it. Or use a die grinder to remove the weld and then try boring out the race just like I did with the other side.

Boy you sure do like making thing 100x harder than they need be....

[Whitetrash]

It reminds me of an Old saying Hire the Handicapped "They Don't get much done but they are fun to watch" I've never had any trouble getting out a bearing race once I shrunk it by welding. Most all damn near dropped out the stubborn ones took 2 taps with a hammer