Altivar 31 VFD

[Randyjaco]

I just acquired an Altivar 31 VFD with a 2 hp 3 ph motor. I am electronically challenged but I have managed to set up 2 Teco units that work great. This one I believe I have the wiring right, but when I went to start it up; I notice I have no Potentiometer or RUN Stop buttons on the unit. I presume I have to hook up a remote control. I even have a spare from my Teco units. The question is how do I hook it up? The unit doesn't seem to have the same terminal designations and it has a CAT 4 socket. (could be CAT 5?)

The name plate says ATV31HU15M2. I have the manual and CD that came with it, but I sure can't find any info on how simply turn it on and off and vary the speed manually.

TIA

Randy

[Scotts]

Randy,

Are you missing the keypad that came with it?

If you look in the manual it shows a picture of the keypad. The yaskawa I have, it snaps in the front. It does have a cat 5 cable connection if you remote the keypad. I do not know if it will run without it yet.

Let us start from here and move forward.

I am attaching the PDF I found. Is this it?

Scott

[Randyjaco]

Thanks Scotts,
That is a better manual than the one that came with mine. It also came with a DVD that is far from intuitive.

I got this on a trade so I would prefer not to sink more money into it. I am really trying to find out if it works so I can sell it. The guy I got it from tried to rig the motor for a mechanical bull. The VFD may be fried because motor came with multiple mechanical switches I hope he didn't put between the motor and the VFD.

Since mine is not an "A" model, I don't think that it ever had a control panel, just the access to change functions.

Do you think it is possible to rig an "On", "Off" and speed control via a remote?

Randy

[Scotts]

Randy,

See if pages 25 thru 28 make any sense to you.

If you could post an actual picture of what you have it would be good.

Scott

[Randyjaco]

Sorry, I meant to put it in the original post

[Scotts]

Oh man you are in good shape. From the start I had thought someone had removed the operator control panel and you did not even have that.

I'll give it a look see and go from there.

Have you connected input power yet to see if it even lights up?

Scott

[Scotts]

Randy,

I just have to throw out I would try this if this drive were sitting in front of me. Since you do not know what kind of condition this setup is in and there is no way to find out but kick it.

Just for some semblance of safety if you have a mutimeter to check the incoming power leads to ground on the case of the drive. I would do this first to make sure you do not have a direct short to ground before you start. If your are grounded, don't do anything but put in your scrap pile. If you have doubts about this then by all means don't mess with it.

Do you have a speed potentiometer with a 10 volt power supply? If not I'll throw this out for all to see and comment on.

Look at page 27 of the manual. Refer to page 25 for location of terminals.

You will see a 2 wire control schematic on the left. Put a switch to just connect those terminals together. Careful it will have 24 volts if all is well. If the drive is not right it may have none or 240, This will allow on and off.

Speed control is Over to the right. You will see +/- 10 volt external If you have a variable power supply you could use that. If not you could connect a 9 volt battery, d,c,aa or aaa to get a power to the drive to start and run.

Hook you leads to the motor and then power. Some drives you can not power up and have all the controls connected it will fault on power up.

I would use long wires on the battery or power supply. Hook that up first. Long wires on the switch and stand away from the drive. Open the start switch and then turn power on to the drive. Stand around the corner and flip the start switch on and see what happens. Oh, you need to film all this while you are at it.

Since you do not know which parameters have been messed with the drive may or may not do anything. You can jump that bridge when you get there.

Scott

[Randyjaco]

Thanks again Scot
I will give this a try today.

What is all this "stand back, long wires " stuff? Have I got a potential IED here?

Randy

[Randyjaco]

Well I have everything wired and plugged in. The VFD LED lights up red and the display says RDY. I think that is good at least the IED didn't blow up
I tried wiring up per page 27. What position should the logic input switch be in? I tried it in the Sink position. I put my multimeter on the 24v screw and COM and got only a few Mv. I put it to ground and 24v and got only @185Mv.
I tried the 2 wire control and the 3 wire control configurations and got nothing. But the LED did go to zero when I tried. I haven't figured out how to properly do the Analog voltage inputs or Current inputs. I am quite electronically challenged
BTW the motor does work. It ran fine off my RPC.
What do the horizontal rectangular boxes mean in the Logic Input Switch wiring diagrams?
I also ran through the programing and reset to factory settings for this exercise.
At this point I have blown my wad and seeking guidance

Randy

[Scotts]

Originally Posted by Randyjaco

Well I have everything wired and plugged in. The VFD LED lights up red and the display says RDY. I think that is good at least the IED didn't blow up WOOOO HOOOOO!!!!
I tried wiring up per page 27. What position should the logic input switch be in? I tried it in the Sink position. I put my multimeter on the 24v screw and COM and got only a few Mv. I put it to ground and 24v and got only @185Mv.
I tried the 2 wire control and the 3 wire control configurations and got nothing. But the LED did go to zero when I tried. That is good. run the wires and throw the switch. Put it to source and try that I haven't figured out how to properly do the Analog voltage inputs or Current inputs. I am quite electronically challenged Here is where the battery comes in. You have the drive in the run mode with the switch on. Now you have to tell it how fast to go. Use the analog voltage input. Connect the battery across the 2 terminals. 0 to the negative side and plus to the other. If you do not give it the speed to run it will not go. Any battery less than 10 volts dc will make it go if it is going to.
BTW the motor does work. It ran fine off my RPC.
What do the horizontal rectangular boxes mean in the Logic Input Switch wiring diagrams? Not sure it may be a switch of some kind representation.
I also ran through the programing and reset to factory settings for this exercise. This is a good thing
At this point I have blown my wad and seeking guidance

Randy

Randy,

I have to put something here along with my quotes in red above. Looks like you got it ready just tell it how fast with the battery. A 9 volt will make it run faster than a AA. 10 volts will give you full speed. 0 volt across those 2 terminals give you 0 speed. That is why it will not run.

Long wires makes it sound scary don't it?

Scott