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  #71  
Old 02-10-2012, 01:30 PM
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[QUOTE=JohnBoy;468209]Why does the wide axle need to be removed?

Or do you mean to be able to remove the whole lot, brackets and all?


also why are you so keen on the wide track.QUOTE]

As JWS said wide front isn't as tippy. With a bale or a bucket full and a narrow front you can't run on steeper side hills because your pivot point is about 2 feet lower (2/3 meter). So with the narrow front there is more leverage exerted by the load and quite a bit easier to lay on it's side.
I was refering to brackets and all. I also have a front mount cultivator and was considering making my sickle mower front mount also. The sickle mower may go on the M and just stay there.
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  #72  
Old 02-11-2012, 11:21 AM
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ahh, I was wondering why you couldnt remove it alright. cant say I've ever seen someone take the brackets off unless selling or never using the loader again.

Dont really see that as a problem.



I get the width=stability thing, although I suppose you shouldnt be traversing side slopes with the load anywhere other than a few inches off the ground anyway.


Any fears of the extreme width being a problem with front axle loadings from the loader?
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  #73  
Old 02-12-2012, 01:59 AM
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John, no worries about the axle breaking, the spindles are the only worry but the narrow front has the same spindle.
I got the loader home tonight, sorry no pics on the trailer it was cold. The first 3 pics are after i got it unloaded and hanging about 6 inches off the ground. Pic 4 is with the axle out and ready to slide the loader in. In pic 3 you can see that this loader was made for a narrow front tractor, oh well I can get around that.
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  #74  
Old 02-12-2012, 02:08 AM
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Some more pics. I did get the axle back in tonight. I had to "unmodify" the rear axle loader mounts, The tractor it came off of had hexagonal axle housings and mine is square.
Tomorrow morning I have to run to work for some 7.5 inch long 5/8 bolts.
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  #75  
Old 02-12-2012, 09:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Dean View Post
John, no worries about the axle breaking, the spindles are the only worry but the narrow front has the same spindle.
I got the loader home tonight, sorry no pics on the trailer it was cold. The first 3 pics are after i got it unloaded and hanging about 6 inches off the ground. Pic 4 is with the axle out and ready to slide the loader in. In pic 3 you can see that this loader was made for a narrow front tractor, oh well I can get around that.
I don't know if the 2656 I ran had the same front axle as your tractor, but I have seen it break a spindle in quite cold weather. They definitely aren't bullet proof.
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  #76  
Old 02-12-2012, 10:40 PM
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I got everything together about 3 this afternoon, this pic is every thing ready to go push snow! It took about an hour to clear the drift that had been blocking SWMBO's parking spot and the rest of the driveway. Everything worked great, no hydraulic leaks. I did have some tracton problems so I need to hang some wheel weights. I have 8 weights @ 145Lbs each so 1160 Lbs added to the rear end, should help the traction a lot.
Now that the tractor and loader is done I have to go back to the DuAll loader so I can get it sold. I plan on hanging that loader on my M, it will look better that way like I actually use it. I plan on asking $750 and will be happy to get $500.
The shop needs to be cleaned out for Sunday since we have a 4-H meeting. The kids need space to shoot.
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  #77  
Old 02-12-2012, 10:49 PM
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That is pretty cheap for a loader. Around here they go for $1200 minimum. You can always come down on the price.
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  #78  
Old 02-13-2012, 04:17 PM
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Considering I got it for $200 and all I have to do is cover the other loader, I want to move it fast. I had a guy call about it today, he wants to come look at it on Sunday.

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  #79  
Old 02-13-2012, 11:31 PM
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A lot of farmers use fluid in the rears for weight. Where you can store the tractor inside, that will reduce the chance of tearing the tubes & such. Couple hundred will pay for the install.
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  #80  
Old 02-14-2012, 05:37 AM
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That's one mighty long loader! looks like a real bargain.


if you're worried about ultimate weight then technically a counterweight is better than wheel weights.

when you approach the tipping point with weighted tyres you eventually put the entire weight of the tractor, loader and load, on the front axle. the reccomendation for four wheel drive tractors is with an empty bucket on you should have a 60/40 rear bias, with 2wd I'd imagine that number should be closer to 80/20

a counterweight on a quick hitch will be a better job for your front axle if you can cope with the intrusion of it.

One is on my long long list of projects.
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